Jump to content


Mercedes W153


  • Please log in to reply
29 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   Drums01

Drums01

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 375 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ohio
  • Interests:Scale Modeling; Shooting; Real Cars; Motorcycles; percussion (Drummer)
  • Number of Models:360 +/- mostly 1:18, then 1:24, etc.
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Kyosho, CMC, Exoto, Hot Wheels Elite, others
  • Proud Citizen of:us

Posted 11 April 2017 - 04:56 PM

Well, here I am again with something off the wall. It is a Mercedes W163 Formula 1 racer from 1939. I am building it to sit with my recently finished Ferrari F1 car from Revival. For those not familiar with Revival models, they can be wonderful and sometimes difficult, accurate and other times simple, etc. Revival kits are in 1:20 scale and are created either as a basic plastic kit, or one that is higher priced and all metal (engine, chassis, body, metal spoked wheels, with only a few plastic and rubber parts); mine is the all metal kit. You can google 1/20 Revival or search on eBay to get a better view on their content and selection. Here is what the finished result should look like when I am done (not my photo):

Posted Image

The kit arrives in a box with each metal part in it's own compartment. The metal bodies are pre-painted, but sometimes there are imperfections (like mine). I will have to strip it and repaint it German Silver.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Building a revival kit means you need to be in the right frame of mind to de-seam everything as the metal mold lines and flashing can make an otherwise nice metal part look poor and make fitting pieces difficult (see photo). This means that it is not a kit to quickly throw together. A good set of craft files are a must with these kits.

Posted Image

The instructions show each sub-assembly in an exploded view and there are no part numbers or written instructions on the assembly sequence. Here is a picture of the engine assembly and my finished product (phase 1). Other than researching the color variations of the parts (on real car photos) and the de-seaming process, the only modification I did was to add a plug wire tube (as on the real car) to route the wires properly. You can see the plug wire tube on the lower left photo of the real car.

Posted Image

And yes, those are twin superchargers (blowers) on the front of the engine.

Posted Image

With any luck, my next update will show the assembly of the chassis; to include adding the engine, rear transaxle, and basic suspension.

Edited by Drums01, 11 April 2017 - 05:00 PM.


Remove Advertisements User is offline Advertisement

  • DieCastXChange.com



#2 OFFLINE   CreepyVanMan

CreepyVanMan

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 2,804 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Utah (for now)
  • Interests:Racing (all kinds) and Snowboarding
  • Favorite Brands:CMC, Exoto, AUTOart, TSM, Spark
  • Proud Citizen of:us

Posted 11 April 2017 - 05:59 PM

Wow this looks awesome! I'm pumped for the updates! That's a proper kit!
"I used to play sports. Then I realized you can buy trophies. Now I am good at everything." -Demetri Martin

#3 OFFLINE   ironsim

ironsim

    Senior Member

  • DX Community
  • PipPip
  • 6,015 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Favorite Brands:Autoart, CMC, GT Spirit
  • Proud Citizen of:ca

Posted 11 April 2017 - 07:55 PM

Looks like you gonna have a lot of fun doing this! But why they chose to make it 1/20. Weird choice...

#4 OFFLINE   Drums01

Drums01

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 375 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ohio
  • Interests:Scale Modeling; Shooting; Real Cars; Motorcycles; percussion (Drummer)
  • Number of Models:360 +/- mostly 1:18, then 1:24, etc.
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Kyosho, CMC, Exoto, Hot Wheels Elite, others
  • Proud Citizen of:us

Posted 11 April 2017 - 08:31 PM

I had the same general question regarding 1/20 scale. My best guess is that it has to do with the time when these vintage kits were "New", and considering the F1 market for which they were intended; it is my belief that they were going for something to scale up with the more current model kits of F1 cars from Tamiya, Fujimi, etc.

I would've happier if they were 1/18, but I sure cannot complain with the subject matter and detail when comparing them to the $300.00 plus Exoto or CMC variants......

The next sub-assembly is kind of WILD with parts, so it may take some time before the next update but I think you will like it. I am debating on keeping the body so it can be removed to see the details (if possible); time will tell on that.....

Edited by Drums01, 11 April 2017 - 08:32 PM.


#5 OFFLINE   spikyone

spikyone

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 803 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Wiltshire
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Spark, TSM
  • Proud Citizen of:gb

Posted 12 April 2017 - 01:58 AM

Thanks for sharing this with us!  I think I posted on the D50 thread that I'm not really familiar with these so it will be interesting to follow your build.  I'm shocked by the poor paint quality and all those parting lines, looks like it will take a fair amount of skill to get good results.

Posted Image

*** Collection thread updated 6th Feb (Sun Star Peugeot 207 S2000) ***


#6 OFFLINE   Drums01

Drums01

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 375 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ohio
  • Interests:Scale Modeling; Shooting; Real Cars; Motorcycles; percussion (Drummer)
  • Number of Models:360 +/- mostly 1:18, then 1:24, etc.
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Kyosho, CMC, Exoto, Hot Wheels Elite, others
  • Proud Citizen of:us

Posted 13 April 2017 - 09:54 PM

Part 2: I know this is not the completed assembly of phase 2, but instead an intermission per say. I actually needed a break from all of the filing and sanding. Here is a picture of the next assembly process:

Posted Image

If anyone knows of an easier way to remove all of the mold lines, ejection pin marks, and flash without removing the details, please let me know. For now I am a filing and sanding machine. Here is a view of the parts I've managed to clean-up which are test fitted together. The rear trans-axle is cleaned up, painted / weathered and ready for assembly into the chassis. Photos I have found on-line show the chassis a color like a metallic gray. I have found several pictures of the radiator in both silver and black paint. I am not sure which is the most authentic, does anyone have era correct photos and not that of the restored cars?

Posted Image

Posted Image

The shifter can actually move through the shift gates (neat)...

Posted Image

Edited by Drums01, 14 April 2017 - 05:53 AM.


#7 OFFLINE   Drums01

Drums01

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 375 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ohio
  • Interests:Scale Modeling; Shooting; Real Cars; Motorcycles; percussion (Drummer)
  • Number of Models:360 +/- mostly 1:18, then 1:24, etc.
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Kyosho, CMC, Exoto, Hot Wheels Elite, others
  • Proud Citizen of:us

Posted 13 April 2017 - 10:03 PM

This next set of photos are of the front radiator. They provide screen that must be cut to size for the two sides of the radiator. The problem I found was that there was no radiator core, so you could see right through the screens (not very realistic to me). So I used some plastic sheet in a ribbed pattern, cut it to fit in the smaller section so as not to change the dimensions (width) of the radiator. I then painted it flat black and then dry brushed aluminum over the ribs.

Posted Image

The second photo is the result of the 2 screens, 2 part core, and 3 peices of cleaned-up kit parts (more convincing I think).

Posted Image

#8 OFFLINE   Drums01

Drums01

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 375 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ohio
  • Interests:Scale Modeling; Shooting; Real Cars; Motorcycles; percussion (Drummer)
  • Number of Models:360 +/- mostly 1:18, then 1:24, etc.
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Kyosho, CMC, Exoto, Hot Wheels Elite, others
  • Proud Citizen of:us

Posted 13 April 2017 - 10:11 PM

This is what I am dealing with regarding the mold lines and flash, here is a filed and ready to paint rear half shaft and an untouched part.

Posted Image

And here is a basic picture of the various metal parts bags and plastic pieces that will be added later. This does not include the remaining metal parts still in their places in the styrofoam box sections.

Posted Image

Posted Image

I hope to start getting some finish sanding done on the parts and paint applied this weekend; and possibly some assembly. :smile:

Edited by Drums01, 13 April 2017 - 10:15 PM.


#9 OFFLINE   spikyone

spikyone

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 803 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Wiltshire
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Spark, TSM
  • Proud Citizen of:gb

Posted 14 April 2017 - 10:06 AM

Nice update, the radiator looks good. Surprising that the instructions even say "take the burrs away"; they obviously know it needs some work to look its best.  It's certainly made a big difference on the half shaft.
I can't think of an easy way to get rid of the burrs and flash without removing the details, I guess you're already masking it off any time you need to file close to things you don't want to remove.

Posted Image

*** Collection thread updated 6th Feb (Sun Star Peugeot 207 S2000) ***


#10 OFFLINE   Drums01

Drums01

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 375 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ohio
  • Interests:Scale Modeling; Shooting; Real Cars; Motorcycles; percussion (Drummer)
  • Number of Models:360 +/- mostly 1:18, then 1:24, etc.
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Kyosho, CMC, Exoto, Hot Wheels Elite, others
  • Proud Citizen of:us

Posted 14 April 2017 - 08:56 PM

I have just found that the kit was not supplied with one of the two upper front A-Arm hinge blocks. Instead, they placed three of the lower blocks in the kit and one upper (yes, they are different).

So, now I am in the casting business or tasked with a milling or machining of a part. With this much already vested in the kit I am not going to stop now.....

Any ideas anyone? Since they are exactly the same, I am thinking that I can perhaps make a mold of the one I have and pour cast of it for the other (?).

I have never done that so this might be fun.....

#11 OFFLINE   Drums01

Drums01

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 375 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ohio
  • Interests:Scale Modeling; Shooting; Real Cars; Motorcycles; percussion (Drummer)
  • Number of Models:360 +/- mostly 1:18, then 1:24, etc.
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Kyosho, CMC, Exoto, Hot Wheels Elite, others
  • Proud Citizen of:us

Posted 18 April 2017 - 10:05 AM

Two more pieces not supplied in the kit were the are the chassis connectors that go from mid-chassis and connect to the rear radius rods which connect to the suspension dampers; I am having to scratch build them as well.

While some of the kit parts are beautiful :smile:, others are a curse :gaah: with regards to fit and finish :icon_scratch: .

New pictures to come soon as I am making progress on step 2 of the building phase.....

Edited by Drums01, 18 April 2017 - 10:05 AM.


#12 OFFLINE   Drums01

Drums01

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 375 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ohio
  • Interests:Scale Modeling; Shooting; Real Cars; Motorcycles; percussion (Drummer)
  • Number of Models:360 +/- mostly 1:18, then 1:24, etc.
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Kyosho, CMC, Exoto, Hot Wheels Elite, others
  • Proud Citizen of:us

Posted 18 April 2017 - 04:58 PM

Finally, step 2 is done.... (pictures)

Had to make three of the parts as they were missing in the kit. Another issue that came up was the kit chassis supports for the radiator did not fit (badly bent, or twisted during the casting process) so I made my own like on the real car. I also made the caps for the side tanks. Otherwise the fit was challenging at times, but it went together....

Note: EVERYTHING is solid cast metal or brass with the exception of the plug wires, shifting box, pedals, the two rubber collets on the rear axle, and two small parts on the driveshaft. It is already very heavy, in fact it is heavier than many of my 1/18th scale!!


Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Comments or opinions are welcome....

Edited by Drums01, 19 April 2017 - 08:41 AM.


#13 OFFLINE   spikyone

spikyone

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 803 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Wiltshire
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Spark, TSM
  • Proud Citizen of:gb

Posted 19 April 2017 - 05:57 AM

That chassis is a serious chunk of engineering!  The manifolds look great, and it seems like you've solved your problems with the missing parts too - it looks like it came from the factory that way, so good job.

Is it easy enough to remove the body when the model is finished?  It would be a real shame if you couldn't see that chassis detail when the model is completed.  It's almost worth buying two of these, so you can display them like the Exoto rolling chassis sets!

Posted Image

*** Collection thread updated 6th Feb (Sun Star Peugeot 207 S2000) ***


#14 OFFLINE   Drums01

Drums01

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 375 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ohio
  • Interests:Scale Modeling; Shooting; Real Cars; Motorcycles; percussion (Drummer)
  • Number of Models:360 +/- mostly 1:18, then 1:24, etc.
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Kyosho, CMC, Exoto, Hot Wheels Elite, others
  • Proud Citizen of:us

Posted 19 April 2017 - 08:40 AM

Thanks but I'm not sure if I would want to build another (smile).

Seriously though, I am thinking the same as you in trying to keep the main body removable...

#15 OFFLINE   Drums01

Drums01

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 375 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ohio
  • Interests:Scale Modeling; Shooting; Real Cars; Motorcycles; percussion (Drummer)
  • Number of Models:360 +/- mostly 1:18, then 1:24, etc.
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Kyosho, CMC, Exoto, Hot Wheels Elite, others
  • Proud Citizen of:us

Posted 22 April 2017 - 06:43 PM

I have suffered another failure in this kit. I know it is very old, but I did not anticipate the dry rot of the rubber tires to fall apart when trying to put them on (over) the wheels. Two of the tires torn completely apart and a third suffered a small rip. I was able to repair the tiny rip but the other two are now two crests.

I was thinking of gluing them on the metal rim and using putty to fill in the separation area, can that work? I fear that the transition between the rubber and putty will show and take away from the kit.

I do not want to lace my own wheels and the kit wheels have the correct hubs. The problem with the wheels are they they are nearly the size of the ribber itself and fill out the hollow center of the kit tires; they are not something to slide a solid rubber or resin wheel over.

Is there an easy 1/20 scale alternative?

Does anyone have any ideas?

:dunno: :dunno: :dunno:

#16 OFFLINE   CreepyVanMan

CreepyVanMan

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 2,804 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Utah (for now)
  • Interests:Racing (all kinds) and Snowboarding
  • Favorite Brands:CMC, Exoto, AUTOart, TSM, Spark
  • Proud Citizen of:us

Posted 23 April 2017 - 04:50 PM

Ouch! I don't have any idea but am commenting to bump this to the top again. Bummer man! There has to be some replacements out there, 1/20 is a common size for kits I believe.
"I used to play sports. Then I realized you can buy trophies. Now I am good at everything." -Demetri Martin

#17 OFFLINE   Drums01

Drums01

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 375 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ohio
  • Interests:Scale Modeling; Shooting; Real Cars; Motorcycles; percussion (Drummer)
  • Number of Models:360 +/- mostly 1:18, then 1:24, etc.
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Kyosho, CMC, Exoto, Hot Wheels Elite, others
  • Proud Citizen of:us

Posted 25 April 2017 - 05:19 AM

I priced some after market wire wheel and tire combinations (there were not many), but NONE of them were correct in size, spoke design, etc. Next I debated on casting the one good tire using a silicone mold. The problem was the front and rear rims are different sizes and the tire side profiles are also different. :duh:

I sent an e-mail to Revival in Italy, but considering the age of the kit and the fact that it was missing three parts already, I really doubt they would provide new (fresh rubber) tires. :icon_scratch:

You will not believe the fix that worked for the dry rot tires;.... superglue, razor knife, patience, careful fitting, sandpaper, and flat acrylic black paint. I thought what the heck, there was nothing to loose. First I used superglue to carefully weld the rubber torn peices back together. Knowing that they would not go over the steel inner-liner because they would simply rip again in another spot, I then chose to cut them in the center of the contact / tread patch. Next was to clean up the glue on the sidewalls and inside the tire by very carefully sanding them (so it would go over the metal inner-liner). Then I carefully cleaned the flash in the area where the sidewall met with the wheel rim (the bead) so they would fit properly. The next big step was to carefully glue each tire half to each side of the rim while simultaneously carefully matching the seam and tread variation together (this was the least fun part). I then carefully sanded the new contact patch seam area very carefully. Last was to paint flat black acrylic into a flat sponge and roll the tread of each tire over it. The match I thought was convincing, hid the seams of the 4 parts of rubber for each tire, and did not detract from the overall profile and appearance; check it out... :smile:

Posted Image

In the photo above you can also see where I began work on Step 3 of the assembly. Some of the scratch built pieces include the rear radius rod ends that attach them to the chassis; the aluminum connectors from the radiator to the engine; and the radiator mount (the piano wire rod which was 3 pieces for each side and based on photos of the real car). There are other things I found as more than a challenge that I will explain below.

Posted Image

Here is a better view of the radiator support brackets (wire rod). If you look closely you can also make out the lower radiator hose with a metal connector. The upper and lower "A" arms were also a problem in that the casting did not leave the proper diameter holes for the front hub pins. It was impossible to clean up and drill the pin holes without destroying the ends of the "A" arms (believe me that I tried). This left me with the issue of recreating the "A" arm ends so the front hubs could be attached. :icon_scratch:

The solution was to use hollow brass rod to simply go over the wheel hubs and affix end caps to hold them in place. Another problem with the front suspension was the ride height and wheel camber when using the kit provided coil springs and my hub pin solution. The fix was to replace the springs with another diameter brass rod with solder wrapped around them to replicate the spring. The camber was fixed by using two different thickness of rod on the end of the "A" arms ; one brass the other plastic. This combined solution corrected the camber and ride height issues. In this view you can also see the tire rod attached between the front wheels (still to be painted).

Posted Image

The photo above provides a better view of the various lines that were added for brakes, the coil packs, etc. While the picture makes it appear that the front wheels are not straight, they actually are (trick photography I guess  :rolleyes: ). You can also see the metal connectors between the radiator and engine. The part provided in the kit was all rubber, not scale correct and did not provide the correct appearance. These were scratch bill out of sheet plastic laminated together and then contoured to match the actual cars photos. Believe it or not, the metal bands on the side tanks we're cut from HVAC duct tape :nice: . I found it works better that bare metal foil in these instances and it is virtually indestructible. While it does not work well in fine details, it worked just fine in this application. If you look close you can see the seam line on the right front tire; it was the worst one (dry rot) when putting the pieces back together.

Posted Image

Here is my last photo for this installment. Next I have to assemble the steering box and linkage. From what I see in the remaining assemblies, it might be difficult to make the body removable, but I have not given up just yet. Two of the issues I see already involve the center fuel tank (in front of the driver) as it was designed to be affixed to the upper body as well as the steering wheel shaft. The other part is the rear bulkhead / drivers seat; which is also a permanent part of the upper body. The challenge will be how to attach them to the chassis while retaining a tight fit for the upper body. Those are just two of the issues as I am sure there will be others; stay tuned.... :lurker:

Edited by Drums01, 25 April 2017 - 05:30 AM.


#18 OFFLINE   spikyone

spikyone

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 803 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Wiltshire
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Spark, TSM
  • Proud Citizen of:gb

Posted 25 April 2017 - 04:48 PM

Great update, really interesting to read about how you've overcome the problems with the kit - and that truly is an excellent job you've done of fixing the tyres.

Every time I look in on this thread I find myself transfixed by that chassis!

Posted Image

*** Collection thread updated 6th Feb (Sun Star Peugeot 207 S2000) ***


#19 OFFLINE   Drums01

Drums01

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 375 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ohio
  • Interests:Scale Modeling; Shooting; Real Cars; Motorcycles; percussion (Drummer)
  • Number of Models:360 +/- mostly 1:18, then 1:24, etc.
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Kyosho, CMC, Exoto, Hot Wheels Elite, others
  • Proud Citizen of:us

Posted 25 April 2017 - 09:43 PM

Thank you sir...

#20 OFFLINE   . . .

. . .

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 1,042 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Houston, TX
  • Favorite Brands:. . .
  • Proud Citizen of:rs

Posted 25 April 2017 - 10:21 PM

Tires look really good. Good job :)

#21 OFFLINE   Drums01

Drums01

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 375 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ohio
  • Interests:Scale Modeling; Shooting; Real Cars; Motorcycles; percussion (Drummer)
  • Number of Models:360 +/- mostly 1:18, then 1:24, etc.
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Kyosho, CMC, Exoto, Hot Wheels Elite, others
  • Proud Citizen of:us

Posted 27 April 2017 - 02:45 PM

I started on the corrections to the body parts as there were many ( dirt or grit in the paint, paint bubbles, mold casting lumps, bumps and divits, burrs, etc.). The nose was part of the underbody but the top was glued to the bottom creating a seam on the side which was painted over poorly (???). After fixing all of the above I painted it with several coats of Tamiya gray primer with sanding between and then German silver metallic top coat (pictures coming soon).

Another setback I just found was the factory decals were so bad they desolved as soon as they hit the water (old). I had some very similar decals for the dash gages in my spare decals sets, but I am finding it difficult finding the correct type of numbers (font, scale, and color) for the 1937 F1 mercedes. I will come up with something....

:mad2: :yahoo: :duh: :icon_scratch: :sad:

Edited by Drums01, 27 April 2017 - 10:22 PM.


#22 OFFLINE   Drums01

Drums01

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 375 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ohio
  • Interests:Scale Modeling; Shooting; Real Cars; Motorcycles; percussion (Drummer)
  • Number of Models:360 +/- mostly 1:18, then 1:24, etc.
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Kyosho, CMC, Exoto, Hot Wheels Elite, others
  • Proud Citizen of:us

Posted 29 April 2017 - 10:26 PM

I think I have had it with this kit... by design, I will not be able to have a removable body. In fact, the engine cover did not fit without removing parts from the engine (insufficient clearance) :mad2:. I checked the fit of everything numerous times, and the chassis by itself was just fine. Other fit issues came out when trying to attach every single body panel. :mad2:

This means that the panel gap and fitment can only be achieved by making them non-removable :mad2: . To add to my a guise, the engine cover had two tabs requiring it fit very -very -very firmly between the nose and the rear engine cowling. Basically all of my detail work is hidden :bawling: .  

The mounting of the rear bulkhead behind the seat did not fit as the kit intended either because its pitch and depth did not match when mating the body to the chassis :mad2: . It required significant modification to allow the lower part to fit beneath the steering wheel and behind the gear selector (on the right).

When looking at the different variants of this car I found that some had a black (bakelite) steering wheel while others had a machined center with a wooden rim. Also, some had a blue seat while others has a black one. Generally, the earlier cars had the black seat and wheel.

Because of the mold flash/seams, warping, fitment issues, missing or incorrect parts, poor paint, very small jewelers screw assembly, rubber tire issues, etc.; I do not recommend this kit to anyone but the most experienced who like a challenge as well as some pain and torment. I have built several other 1/20 revival kits and had no problems, but this kit was simply not to the same standard. :duh:  :mad2:

I will post my last photos shortly when the car is D-O-N-E.... :gaah:

Edited by Drums01, 29 April 2017 - 10:32 PM.


#23 OFFLINE   CreepyVanMan

CreepyVanMan

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 2,804 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Utah (for now)
  • Interests:Racing (all kinds) and Snowboarding
  • Favorite Brands:CMC, Exoto, AUTOart, TSM, Spark
  • Proud Citizen of:us

Posted 30 April 2017 - 08:46 AM

I can hear the anguish in your voice man. Hang in there and when it's done put that sucker on a shelf, then don't touch it...cause you'll probably break something on it haha. Gah, shame to see you having so many problems with the kit man, love your work on it however!
"I used to play sports. Then I realized you can buy trophies. Now I am good at everything." -Demetri Martin

#24 OFFLINE   Drums01

Drums01

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 375 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ohio
  • Interests:Scale Modeling; Shooting; Real Cars; Motorcycles; percussion (Drummer)
  • Number of Models:360 +/- mostly 1:18, then 1:24, etc.
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Kyosho, CMC, Exoto, Hot Wheels Elite, others
  • Proud Citizen of:us

Posted 30 April 2017 - 04:38 PM

I really wish everyone could see the details I added like the throttle linkage, oil cooler lines, radiator stencil, etc. All of that is obscured even with the hood removed. I guess "I" know it is there so that will have to do. Here it is, less the windscreen and I am still waiting for the replacement decals:

Posted Image

In the interior shot I did not add the crossover lines from between the rear and center tank. Perhaps I will add them while waiting for the decals (?)...

Posted Image



And here it is with the windscreen. Funny thing is that both this kit and the Ferrari I recently completed by Revival were both missing the clear part of the windscreen. I cut them from clear sheet plastic.... I suppose that is the way this one should end.

Posted Image

My last Revival kit is that of a rear engine Auto Union hill climber (dual rear wheels). I think I am taking a break from this brand for a while though...

As previously mentioned, I cannot recommend this kit to everyone, but with that said it does display well and captures a dominant pre-war era of F1 by Mercedes.

Edited by Drums01, 02 May 2017 - 09:37 AM.


#25 OFFLINE   Drums01

Drums01

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 375 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ohio
  • Interests:Scale Modeling; Shooting; Real Cars; Motorcycles; percussion (Drummer)
  • Number of Models:360 +/- mostly 1:18, then 1:24, etc.
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, Kyosho, CMC, Exoto, Hot Wheels Elite, others
  • Proud Citizen of:us

Posted 06 May 2017 - 12:25 PM

I just could not let this build eat me alive. That was what it was doing sitting on the shelf in a state that I could not tolerate.

I have partially dissembled the build; files down the metal hood tabs to allow it to be removed, used a Dremel to thin the metal under the hood which will allow it to sit correctly on the body; added the fuel tank crossover tubes in the interior; replaced the plug wires and injector lines, etc., etc.

I also received the replacement decals for the numbers and also Mercedes decals for the wheel knock-offs which I will have on on the upcoming photos.

(pictures soon)...


:smile:




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users





©2003-2014 DiecastXchange - The Complete Diecast Car Collectors Message Forum | Privacy Policy | Terms of Use