Jump to content


Torturing myself with a kyosho countach repaint


  • Please log in to reply
28 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   kevinb120

kevinb120

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 1,181 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Favorite Brands:Kyosho, TSM
  • Proud Citizen of: us

Posted 02 June 2017 - 11:59 AM

I got a ww countach a couple years ago on discount as it had issues, someone had tried to pry the headlights up(which were stuck due to an extra lens jambed in there, and some rash.  So tore it down to repaint, more then I bargained for!

Post from another thread I chimed in on regarding disassembly, I later created a topic and can no longer find it:

Wow, taking mine apart was an exercise in futility!  It has screws hidden in and under the spare tire and the copious amounts of glue make it nearly impossible to avoid damaging something.  The parts count is also amazing for this car.  The center caps of the wheels were a nightmare alone.  The slightest pressure on the delicate lips of the wheels damages them, and two were glued in so tightly I had to drill them out to avoid any further damage.  Wheel removal is required to get to the screws in the fender wells.  Mine is a WW red that had damaged pop-ups so I decided what the heck.  After all the frustration getting it stripped down with all the new repairs required, this one is shelved for a while until I find some new patience to start working on it.  This one I didn't care much for as you could see a lot of the assembly glue and the paint wasn't great.  It was the newest version of the WW and the quality control was horrid compared to my earlier ones which are all essentially perfect.  On top of everything, the front bonnet hinges are spot welded to the frame, making removal very difficult as well.  Not easy to repaint with a hinged panel!  

I did get it very cheap(under $70) so I can live with it if it is a sacrifice.  No way in hell am I attempting to take apart my nicer ones.  If I get around to it, it will now need delicate wheel repair, some interior part touch ups, tons of glue removal, and repairing/reworking some of the plastic body parts.  I'll also have to make new center caps for the wheels. I added 20+ hours of work while taking it apart.  Reassembly will require all kinds of fiddling to fit the opening body panels while not damaging what will be fresh paint.

I highly recommend leaving them alone :)  This thing has more parts then an auto art signature lemans car, all in a ~$120 model. Pretty amazing actually. The body is so woven into the model's layered construction it is very difficult to break this car down.  If you own one with any issues, just display it with the best side showing :yahoo:

Alas, here she was before, doesn't look so bad all things considering(it looks much better in a low res pic):

Posted Image

Here's some breakdown pics
Posted Image

The damaged headlight
Posted Image

The incredibly frustrating front hinges
Posted Image

How they get this to work is beyond me.  

So after over a year of being broken down to parts, here's the list:

Delete rear wing and fill holes
Delete rear hatch straps and fill holes
Delete the plates?
Hopefully repair the damage  I did to the super delicate wheels removing them(it's not easy finding replacements)
Fix headlights as squarely as I can and fix permanently in place
Fix hood permanently in place(hinges are a lost cause)
Repaint with all body kit, front bumper, and rear hatch slats all body color

Within a few hours this week I had her stripped down, re-fitting/repairing headlight covers, checking the fit.  The diecast metal is so soft you can bend parts looking at them wrong.  getting ready to work some of the plastic body parts, they are covered in glue, really shoddy late release.

At least I have 5 other ones as reference material

Posted Image

Edited by kevinb120, 02 June 2017 - 12:00 PM.


Remove Advertisements User is offline Advertisement

  • DieCastXChange.com



#2 OFFLINE   kevinb120

kevinb120

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 1,181 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Favorite Brands:Kyosho, TSM
  • Proud Citizen of: us

Posted 02 June 2017 - 12:09 PM

I figure course of action for repaint is to prime everything (the lower rockers are part of the chassis, requiring a full masking job on that part), get all the cracks and crannies painted.  Then tack glue the side scoops and install the metal panels for an even full spray(the side box scoops need black paint requiring removal to paint the grilles) for a metallic paint match.  The fender extensions, lower rockers, and front lip have no choice to be painted separately, which should be fine for a good enough match where the side scoops and headlight covers wouldn't be(kyo's gold version's parts dont match up).  Probably why the others are all solid colors except the dark blue.  Most of the locating pins for the fender flares were lost on break-down, so that will be fun to refit on a fully re-assembled model.

Oh and the damaged wheels, fun times(I want gold, but they may end up black, ha)

Posted Image

Edited by kevinb120, 02 June 2017 - 12:10 PM.


#3 OFFLINE   mairandeddy

mairandeddy

    Die-cast Happy Clappy!

  • DX Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 23,161 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Milford Haven
  • Favorite Brands:Kyosho,GMP
  • Proud Citizen of: gb

Posted 02 June 2017 - 12:15 PM

You are a brave man Kevin, and better than I    :rolleyes:  However - watching with interest!!! :nice:     Good luck :hope: !!..... :lurker:

MOTORHEAD - 21ST CENTURY - MOTORHEAD ALRIGHT!!!

Fast Eddy's

Weddings........................and .....................FUNERALS!

Posted Image


#4 OFFLINE   Wazabi

Wazabi

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 129 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NC
  • Favorite Brands:Kyosho, AutoArt, Hotwheels, Maisto
  • Proud Citizen of: us

Posted 02 June 2017 - 01:52 PM

wow that's intense. $70 for that ain't too bad. Good luck, will be following this one!

#5 OFFLINE   PacMan

PacMan

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 225 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Michigan, USA
  • Favorite Brands:Everything
  • Proud Citizen of: in

Posted 02 June 2017 - 02:53 PM

Good luck with this!

#6 OFFLINE   baseb8

baseb8

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 130 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Favorite Brands:Autoart, GT Spirit, Otto, Welly, UT, Minichamps
  • Proud Citizen of: gb

Posted 02 June 2017 - 05:05 PM

That looks painful! I was thinking of taking apart a Kyosho 250, don't think I will now.

#7 OFFLINE   D N'D-Land

D N'D-Land

    Senior Member

  • DX Moderator
  • PipPip
  • 8,125 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Europe
  • Interests:Creative Design/Diecasts/Travel/Music/Friends & Family/Foodie
  • Favorite Brands:Best Product Made(Especially Dealer Promos)
  • Proud Citizen of: us

Posted 03 June 2017 - 08:25 AM

Curious to see it finished!!! :occasion14:

Make the Best Out of Life!

Feel Free To have a look at my 1/18th Collection Showcase. Link Below Posted Image

http://www.diecastxc...wcase-up-dated/


#8 OFFLINE   kevinb120

kevinb120

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 1,181 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Favorite Brands:Kyosho, TSM
  • Proud Citizen of: us

Posted 05 June 2017 - 08:01 AM

View Postbaseb8, on 02 June 2017 - 05:05 PM, said:

That looks painful! I was thinking of taking apart a Kyosho 250, don't think I will now.

Kyosho models can be a nightmare, many glued on parts layered over the screws.  I dropped and damaged a 240z recently, it has not been fun trying to get it right again, and that's an easier one to work on.

Edited by kevinb120, 05 June 2017 - 08:01 AM.


#9 OFFLINE   mcaf123

mcaf123

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 1,084 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Manchester, United Kingdom
  • Favorite Brands:AutoArt, GT Spirit
  • Proud Citizen of: gb

Posted 05 June 2017 - 09:32 AM

Good luck! The engine looks pretty sweet though :drool5:

#10 OFFLINE   kevinb120

kevinb120

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 1,181 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Favorite Brands:Kyosho, TSM
  • Proud Citizen of: us

Posted 09 June 2017 - 08:36 AM

Picture sucks, but the front hatch and headlights are permanently aligned and secured with epoxy, with some styrene  strips to bump the hood up to level, all of this was out of alignment originally.   holes filled and first primer coats to check for flaws.  Possible color choice shown as well, yes it has gold flake... :)   need to clean it up a bit and move on.  

Started trying to repair the wheels, center caps are going to pose another problem I need to fix.  If they give me shit where metallic colors pose a problem, may just go gloss black.

Decided on a body color bumper.  Doors bent to fit perfectly(metal is super soft!), if I drop one again I'm going to throw it all up in the air an shoot it with the 12 gauge!  Everything else will function properly.

Posted Image

Edited by kevinb120, 09 June 2017 - 08:41 AM.


#11 OFFLINE   kevinb120

kevinb120

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 1,181 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Favorite Brands:Kyosho, TSM
  • Proud Citizen of: us

Posted 09 June 2017 - 08:55 AM

Wheels not too bad, just a little touch up.  I'm thinking if I go green then go with a bronze wheel color?  I need to find rod stock that fits the openings well, cut and save the ends and put 3d gel badges in the centers.

Posted Image

With my red and white ones, thinking it would look similar to this on the shelf :)

Posted Image

Edited by kevinb120, 09 June 2017 - 08:58 AM.


#12 OFFLINE   Wazabi

Wazabi

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 129 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NC
  • Favorite Brands:Kyosho, AutoArt, Hotwheels, Maisto
  • Proud Citizen of: us

Posted 09 June 2017 - 09:57 AM

I like it, great job. Stick with it, if the wheels give you problems, you can always put aftermarket wheels on it! I'm working on a Bburago Countach, nothing at this level like yours but i'm ditching the stock wheels.

Green may be cool, never seen a green Countach. I do agree with the bronze for the wheels, it will look nice. I just used a Tamiya Bronze that turned out pretty well on one of my GTRs.

It's amazing how real these look when you strip them down, look like it's from the factory

#13 OFFLINE   mairandeddy

mairandeddy

    Die-cast Happy Clappy!

  • DX Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 23,161 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Milford Haven
  • Favorite Brands:Kyosho,GMP
  • Proud Citizen of: gb

Posted 09 June 2017 - 10:58 AM

 Wazabi, on 09 June 2017 - 09:57 AM, said:

Green may be cool, never seen a green Countach......

Don't forget the Contessa prototype Waza....
Attached File  post-4303-0-87552000-1371754975.jpg   97.96K   1 downloads


OK, repainted from the its original yellow.....  :rolleyes:



Great colour choice Kev! :10:

MOTORHEAD - 21ST CENTURY - MOTORHEAD ALRIGHT!!!

Fast Eddy's

Weddings........................and .....................FUNERALS!

Posted Image


#14 OFFLINE   Wazabi

Wazabi

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 129 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NC
  • Favorite Brands:Kyosho, AutoArt, Hotwheels, Maisto
  • Proud Citizen of: us

Posted 09 June 2017 - 11:06 AM

nice, i like the green, very 70's

#15 OFFLINE   PacMan

PacMan

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 225 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Michigan, USA
  • Favorite Brands:Everything
  • Proud Citizen of: in

Posted 09 June 2017 - 03:57 PM

Love the colour choice! And I think bronze or gold wheels will look great on it too.

#16 OFFLINE   lateapex

lateapex

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 2,003 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Number of Models:70-80
  • Favorite Brands:Kyosho, Schuco, Autoart
  • Proud Citizen of: no

Posted 10 June 2017 - 05:17 AM

Go green!

#17 OFFLINE   kevinb120

kevinb120

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 1,181 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Favorite Brands:Kyosho, TSM
  • Proud Citizen of: us

Posted 19 June 2017 - 07:55 AM

Changed my mind on the color.  The emerald green I chose was nice but layers over way too easily.  I'm afraid by the time I paint panels inside and out/door jambs, etc  AND assemble most of the model and paint it once more to 'blend' it, it will still look badly uneven and fogged(like a norev metallic model...), better suited to a curbside 1/24 model then a mess of angles and parts.   Thought about doing Tamiya park green or another solid color, which is exactly like the Kyo prototype version, but going to the more outrageous and easier to work with Tamiya candy lime(not really a candy) for a metallic/pearl.  This color(not my model):

Posted Image

Apparently in the car modelling world, everyone that uses this color ends up looking for even more projects to paint with it.



I also sourced new lamborghini rear emblems/lettering from autoartspares for the rear light panel.  Should be going to paint soon, just doing final proofing and priming.

I had to strip the wheels down with easy off, tried a couple shades of gold I hated, and accidentally got dust in the paint after making some corrections and not cleaning them.  What a PITA with those delicate detailed wheels.  Needed a softer gold anyway, toned down again with semi-gloss clear.

On a green kick lately, next project will be a welly miura in proper lime green(non metallic) with silver wheels/rockers-God only knows how I'm going to mask the light surrounds, and adding detail to a green welly 911 Carrera RS 2.7.



-May also have found a very strange yet simple solution to replacing those original center caps on the wheels, which I had in my head as the most difficult part of all of this, we will see once I get them painted, very hard to tell on foggy black plastic right now.  Damaging those wheels and center caps was the main reason this went right in to storage for more then a year.  Some bedazzle stuff from the Hobby Lobby jewelry section may be the solution, as some 'diamonds' had perfect 4 mm chrome backs to them, with an edge lip no less, go figure.  And at 200 for $3.99, I have a few to tinker with :)

Edited by kevinb120, 19 June 2017 - 08:19 AM.


#18 OFFLINE   kevinb120

kevinb120

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 1,181 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Favorite Brands:Kyosho, TSM
  • Proud Citizen of: us

Posted 19 June 2017 - 11:40 AM

Check this out, of all things little fake plastic diamonds will friction-fit in the old center cap slots.  the faceted 'main' side self centers and holds them tightly in place.  I can just add bull decals or tiny 1/43 gel center cap or crest decals  With 200 of them, I have a few tries to get it right :)

Attached Files


Edited by kevinb120, 19 June 2017 - 11:41 AM.


#19 OFFLINE   PacMan

PacMan

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 225 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Michigan, USA
  • Favorite Brands:Everything
  • Proud Citizen of: in

Posted 19 June 2017 - 03:21 PM

That green is amazing.

#20 OFFLINE   Craig

Craig

    Administrator

  • DX Administrator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 24,275 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Favorite Brands:CMC/ Exoto/ FrontiArt/ GT Spirit/ UT Models
  • Proud Citizen of: gb

Posted 20 June 2017 - 06:47 AM

I agree, it really pops!!

Posted Image



Please feel free to check out my 1/18 collection HERE


#21 OFFLINE   lawless

lawless

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 101 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:galway
  • Interests:ford's,,jdm 1-18
  • Number of Models:100 and counting
  • Favorite Brands:autoart,kyosho,minichamps,ertl,
  • Proud Citizen of: ie

Posted 20 June 2017 - 12:21 PM

:eusa_clap:

#22 OFFLINE   kevinb120

kevinb120

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 1,181 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Favorite Brands:Kyosho, TSM
  • Proud Citizen of: us

Posted 21 June 2017 - 05:53 PM

Quick sneak peek update for now.  Have all the components with base coat, with the door and hood jambs painted with two coats.  This is going to look great with a wet coat.  Painting a model blown up like this eats tons of paint and doesn't end up with a even finish.  After this sets up, the doors/trunk/engine cover/side pods will be attached and slightly shimmed out from the jambs and the wet coats will go on.  A lot easier to paint a car body as a car body.  Rockers and flares/front spoiler should be fine painted separately.  Then cleared and broken back down for internal panel and trim paint.   Terrible lighting in the pic, but oh well.  It's pretty much modern Kawasaki green

Attached Files



#23 OFFLINE   Wazabi

Wazabi

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 129 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NC
  • Favorite Brands:Kyosho, AutoArt, Hotwheels, Maisto
  • Proud Citizen of: us

Posted 21 June 2017 - 06:05 PM

Looks like its heading in the right direction. Love the green!

#24 OFFLINE   Eric

Eric

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 2,372 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Boston, MA
  • Interests:Diecast
  • Favorite Brands:AUTOart, Kyosho, & GT Spirit
  • Proud Citizen of: us

Posted 22 June 2017 - 05:49 AM

I had attempted to take apart my yellow Kyosho LP400 several years ago.  I wanted to lower it a little because I thought it sat just a little to high.  I gave up a because I didn't think that I'd be able to put it back together.  

You're a brave man and I can't wait to see the finished product!

#25 OFFLINE   kevinb120

kevinb120

    Member

  • DX Community
  • Pip
  • 1,181 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Favorite Brands:Kyosho, TSM
  • Proud Citizen of: us

Posted 22 June 2017 - 08:14 AM

They are definitely a headache.  The suspension is functional on these cars, it may just be a matter of springs, but after what I had to go through just to get here, I can't imagine messing with the suspension :)

I went back to the emerald green, the other color just was not working with all the sharp angles of the car.  The color has very fine gold flake hard to tell in this crappy pic.  Will get tons of clear and a lot of polish

.  
And a pic of the reclaimed wheels, not perfect, but with the center caps and IRL they look pretty darn good, center caps cover almost all the remaining damage I just could not fix.  I just can't imagine giving up the bravo wheels that are a direct bolt on. I painted them with krylon 'short cuts' gold, then just dusted them with clear coat to take away the phony spray gold look, without making them glossy nor matte.  

I looked over my other kyo countachs, and they all have dust in the paint, glue marks, etc, and I never thought them anything other then perfect models.

Attached Files


Edited by kevinb120, 22 June 2017 - 08:32 AM.





2 user(s) are reading this topic

1 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users


    winstoncds




©2003-2014 DiecastXchange - The Complete Diecast Car Collectors Message Forum | Privacy Policy | Terms of Use