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More Kyosho's developing paint deterioration


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#201 ONLINE   blieu118

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 08:11 AM

View PostBMWE90, on 30 June 2014 - 07:12 AM, said:

the Styrofoam box is the major culprit for diecast blistering/rash.  im not sure what causes the chemical reaction between the Styrofoam and the paint but I am pretty certain it is the root cause.   I wish kyosho would use the old and proven screw-window maisto boxes.  the Styrofoam "seem" like a nice way to protect the car but its doing more harm than good.  its sad to say this, but its better for ur car to be out and collect dust than live in its Styrofoam shell.

Is this confirmed? If it is then its best to clean your model cars with something like Meguir's Quik Detailer or something similar as soon as you take it out of the box..which may help? :dunno:

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#202 ONLINE   Sanchez

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 03:59 AM

View PostBMWE90, on 30 June 2014 - 07:12 AM, said:

the Styrofoam box is the major culprit for diecast blistering/rash.  im not sure what causes the chemical reaction between the Styrofoam and the paint but I am pretty certain it is the root cause.   I wish kyosho would use the old and proven screw-window maisto boxes.  the Styrofoam "seem" like a nice way to protect the car but its doing more harm than good.  its sad to say this, but its better for ur car to be out and collect dust than live in its Styrofoam shell.

I think you are right.
I have one very rare and desirable model by AutoArt that has bad paint problems on doors which have direct contact with styrofoam.
Really pissed. One would think static precise scale replicas are rare products that are made to exist forever but seems they are very vulnerable.

#203 OFFLINE   Craig

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 04:16 AM

I still don't have any of this. I have a lot of models still in their styrofoam boxes (we call it polystyrene here) & this has not happened. However I try to make sure that the model is not in contact with the actual box. And if the model came wrapped in tissue paper etc I wrap it back up in it.

As for zinc pest, I've seen it happen to a couple of CMC Mercedes models.

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#204 OFFLINE   jcappai18

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 06:09 AM

I'm skeptical about the claim that the styrofoam has an impact on the paint. I' m no chemist, I'm an engineer, but I'd like to read the science and more stats supporting that statement because for me it doesn't make sense.
I have one kyosho that has rashes all over the place, the Z8, and it's been out of the box ever since I bought it. On the other hand, none of my kyoshos that are still in their boxes show any sign of paint deterioration. Plus I have a few AutoArts with paint rashes and those came in the standard plastic cover boxes, so no contact with styrofoam ever.
I'm no expert, but I believe the problem comes from the manufacturing itself where many factors can come into play: the composition of the metal, impurities, cleanliness of the model before painting, and maybe others. I wouldn't be surprised to learn that the diecast manufacturers try to save a few bucks by using different grades of metal in different batches, which is why some models come out perfectly fine over the years and others are trash ...... my 2 cents !!
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#205 ONLINE   blieu118

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 07:01 AM

This is frustrating!! Every once in a while I take out my diecast models for dusting, I find some models that had perfect paint finish now has some rash on their bodies...GGGGGGRRRRR!!!

I dont get it. And i agree with what jcappai18 said above, these models of mine been out of their boxes for some years now. I dont think it has to do with styrofoam. Its more of the impurity from mixing the metal..

Edited by blieu118, 03 July 2014 - 07:01 AM.


#206 OFFLINE   Monster

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 10:09 AM

View Postblieu118, on 03 July 2014 - 07:01 AM, said:

This is frustrating!! Every once in a while I take out my diecast models for dusting, I find some models that had perfect paint finish now has some rash on their bodies...GGGGGGRRRRR!!!

I dont get it. And i agree with what jcappai18 said above, these models of mine been out of their boxes for some years now. I dont think it has to do with styrofoam. Its more of the impurity from mixing the metal..
Totally agree, I don't understand why my Bburago, Maisto and UT models are in perfect conditions while some of my Autoart and all of my kyosho has suffered from this horrible problem.

#207 OFFLINE   g3org3y

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 06:56 AM

FWIW, my Bburago Z3 M Roadster has some of the best paint of all my models. Once polished/wax, it looks brilliant. Not a hint of paint rash either.
:adore:Posted Image Because fanboy.

#208 OFFLINE   mairandeddy

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 04:57 PM

OK, we've all experienced some level of this dreaded rash with our 1:18 Kyos....but anyone seen it in their 1:12s???  :dunno:

Reason being my new grail is their 1:12 Lambo Jota...that is in the most frequently affected colour....RED.... :bawling:

Any advice greatly appreciated.... :hope:

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#209 ONLINE   Sanchez

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 04:05 AM

My Red 1:12 Ferrari F40 Street has paint problems. But I think it is rather paint blistering than rash.

#210 OFFLINE   mairandeddy

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 01:44 PM

Thanks for the feedback Sanchez. :yahoo:   I think Kyosho's Rosso Corsa is a particular culprit both in 1:18 and 1:12!  :gaah:

I have the 1:12 Miura in red though and no signs of rash...  I was hoping if anyone has the 1:12 Jota that the paint might be significantly different to be spared..... :hope:

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#211 OFFLINE   Sherman Perera

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 04:23 PM

View Postaydincan, on 14 February 2014 - 04:45 AM, said:

Hello again,

I cured one more model from Kyosho. Posted Image

Firstly as i mentioned before, this type "little blistering" issue especially on red models is due to complete curing of red paint (red is one of the hardest drying colour) within a long timeline communicating environmental effects. This blistering issue not releated with directly metal mix that used. Other paint cracking & big bubling issues are completely chemical reactions between materials and out of our topic for right now.



Here is affected Testarossa from Kyosho:



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Applying micro-mesh with water 6000 > 8000 > 12000 grits:


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After sanding, the area will get dull:


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Tamiya Compound application Fine & Finish:



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Finally don't forget to wax:



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The result:


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I have a Original F40 Kyosho 1/18 on its way - That is suffering from paint bubbles.  What I want to know is when your using the Micro Mesh different grades- Which grade do you start off with? I am confused with the process.  Could you please explain a little further?  Also how safe is this Procedure??

#212 OFFLINE   StratosWRC

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 05:10 PM

You start with the smaller grade and go up from there. So 6000 > 8000 > 10000, for example.
Wes




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