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Removing Paint Rash from Diecast Models.


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#1 OFFLINE   Retroclassics

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 10:02 AM

Hi all, so we all know about paint rash and the annoyance it causes well here is a step by step guide on how to remove paint rash, yes paint rash comes in all different stages from small area's of bubbling to area's that are largely affected with large raised bubbles (Zinc Pest is another matter).... However the paint rash can be removed with the right materials and some spare time, hopefully a few members here can benefit from this guide.

Here are the materials that I used to remove the rash:

1. Meguiars Ultimate Quick Wax - You can pick this up from your local Auto Spares store.
2. Mer - The Ultimate polish - You can also pick this up from your local Auto spares store
3. Water Sprayer - Not essential, a small bowl of water would be suffice.
4. Tamiya polishing Compound - Coarse, Fine and Finish - The Coarse isn't really needed but it comes as a set of three - eBay Number - 111573109393.
5. Micromesh polishing Cloths - You'll only need 6000, 8000 and 12000 - eBay Number - 331508474204.
6. polishing Cloths.

Right so let's begin:

The model that I have been working on is the Autoart Lotus Cortina Mk1, It had terrible paint rash on the boot lid so I set about removing it.

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These are the Micromesh polishing cloths, as you can see I'm using the 6000, 8000 and 12000 sheet's.

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So this is the affected area, the Paint rash is very bad and the bubbles are raised so much so you can feel them with you finger!!

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Step 1

I start off using the 6000 sheet with water to remove most part of the Paint Rash, rubbing very gently in a circular motion, the area will become dull and you will see the paint rash slowly disappear. (Remember to be gentle, it is very easy to mess up)

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It's hard to see but the boot lid has become dull, using the 6000 sheet with water.

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Step 2

I then move up to the 8000 sheet which get's rid of the marks that the 6000 have left, the paint rash has now been removed but the area is still dull.

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Step 3

I now move up to the 12000 sheet which removes the dullness of which the 6000 and 8000 have left, the 12000 sheet kinda polishes up the area but still has a dull type haze, this is where the Compound comes in.

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Step 4

I then apply the fine polishing compound using a toothpick, remember you do not need a lot of compound.

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I repeat the process with the Finish Compound.

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Step 5

Last part is to polish and wax the area you have worked on, you should end up with an area no longer affected by paint rash and the paint work nice and shiny.

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I hope you find the above useful and any questions please don't hesitate to ask I'm more than happy to answer any questions you have. :occasion14:


Edited by Craig, 22 July 2017 - 07:06 AM.
- Just to say that as the original pictures are no longer active (thanks to Photobucket) there is a link later on to another thread with pictures etc.


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#2 OFFLINE   Craig

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 10:18 AM

Great turnaround there Ashley - it looks like new now mate :eusa_clap:

I said those cloths were good :nice:  and for the amount of money they cost they are well worth picking up. The good thing is that the rash won't come back either.


By the way, I have pinned this.

:occasion14:

F**k you Photobucket.



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#3 OFFLINE   Stu72

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 10:42 AM

Will this method work on race cars covered in decals/tampos? Or do you think you'd just end up scratching the decals/tampos?
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#4 OFFLINE   wrx_triggerhappy

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 10:50 AM

:eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :rock:
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#5 OFFLINE   Retroclassics

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 10:56 AM

View PostCraig, on 22 September 2015 - 10:18 AM, said:

Great turnaround there Ashley - it looks like new now mate :eusa_clap:

I said those cloths were good :nice:  and for the amount of money they cost they are well worth picking up. The good thing is that the rash won't come back either.


By the way, I have pinned this.

:occasion14:

Cheers Craig. :occasion14:

I make you right mate, those cloths work a treat and are worth every penny I mean for £7.95 you can't go wrong!! So thank you for letting me know about them.

And thank you for pinning this, I much appreciate it.

View PostStu72, on 22 September 2015 - 10:42 AM, said:

Will this method work on race cars covered in decals/tampos? Or do you think you'd just end up scratching the decals/tampos?

Ah you got me there Stu, I'd say that this method wouldn't work on race cars with the decals/tampos simply because the paint rash is the paint bubbling up so you'll probably end up removing most of the decal before you even get to the rash itself, so I wouldn't recommend it... I could be wrong but hopefully another member can shed some light on the subject.

View Postwrx_triggerhappy, on 22 September 2015 - 10:50 AM, said:

:eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :rock:

Thank you Sam, I'm well happy with the result - One down and about another twenty or so to sort out but hey once sorted I won't have to worry about it any more. :occasion14:

#6 OFFLINE   Craig

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 10:59 AM

You are very welcome Ashley :occasion14:

View PostStu72, on 22 September 2015 - 10:42 AM, said:

Will this method work on race cars covered in decals/tampos? Or do you think you'd just end up scratching the decals/tampos?
No, sadly it'll just ruin them. It only works on plain bodied cars. The only way for it to work on a race car would be to do it, get rid of the whole decal / tampo, then replace it with a new one.

F**k you Photobucket.



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#7 ONLINE   Alex SZ1996

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 11:13 AM

great guide, i have a handful of model which have some rash. will try to remove it sometime

#8 OFFLINE   Retroclassics

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 12:37 PM

Thank you Alex, it's definitely worth giving it a go mate but just take your time with it. :occasion14:

#9 OFFLINE   littlerockshhd

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 12:40 PM

Thanks for this info. It will be a game changer for some Kyosho models. Also, I'm sure the products you listed will be having a nice sales spike.

#10 OFFLINE   jcappai18

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 01:36 PM

I am one of those who thought that paint rash = ruined model. I figured it required certain skills to remove the paint rash, but with your guide it looks like a 5 year old can do it. I'll definitely try it on my M3 CSL, thanks for the detailed steps
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#11 OFFLINE   drivinghermad

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 02:36 PM

I have seen several helpful guides on here with paint rash and have to say great effort by all for us collectors to follow.Your step by step guide is very clear and Fantastic to follow which is up there with the best on here.Thanks a lot Bro for taking the time to post this i will keep coming back before i start on my models that are affected.If you say after you have treated the model it doesn't come back then what's stopping me from going through my collection one by one hey.I have the Micro cloths already and polish.So what is the Finish compound,is it a cutting polish?As i have cutting polish and normal polish but in different names to your products.Great work Ash,well done. :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :danke: :occasion14:

#12 OFFLINE   mairandeddy

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 02:55 PM

View PostCraig, on 22 September 2015 - 10:18 AM, said:

Great turnaround there Ashley - it looks like new now mate :eusa_clap:
By the way, I have pinned this.

:occasion14:

And rightly so!! :agreed:

When I first saw this I was inclined to merge it with one of the similar topic threads, but it is SOOOO good that it has to stand alone!!!  

Great work Ashley, :occasion14:  and (though credit to a couple of other members with similar tutorials) you have made it so easy and given us all a lot of hope!  :rock:

BTW...gotta go now as i'm off to check MY Cortina..... :hope: :hope: :hope:

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#13 OFFLINE   The Paladin

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 06:48 PM

I agree with most of the guide except for the 6000 sheet , in my opinion is too abrassive and its easy to get a bit of decoloration, I started using that but then change to 8000 and then 12000,  it just takes more time but its safer.

#14 OFFLINE   StratosWRC

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 07:12 PM

thanks for taking the time to do this. Very helpful
I mod stuff

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#15 OFFLINE   neo_natasha

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 07:41 PM

Great tutorial man ! Would be very useful for us !

#16 OFFLINE   BMWE90

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Posted 23 September 2015 - 08:30 AM

definitely a super helpful guide, this should be stickied!  im gonna try this during my spare time on my kyosho models.
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#17 OFFLINE   Retroclassics

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Posted 23 September 2015 - 12:45 PM

View Postlittlerockshhd, on 22 September 2015 - 12:40 PM, said:

Thanks for this info. It will be a game changer for some Kyosho models. Also, I'm sure the products you listed will be having a nice sales spike.

No problem at all buddy. As to the kyosho models all of mine suffer from Paint Rash so having the "know how" on how to remove the rash is ideal. I've already tested this method on my Kyosho 69 Ferrari 365GTB/4 Daytona and it worked a treat. The product's I used are more of a personal preference as to what worked best for me, the Micromesh sheets and Tamiya Compound are essential but the polish and wax you use is really down to what works best for you.

View Postjcappai18, on 22 September 2015 - 01:36 PM, said:

I am one of those who thought that paint rash = ruined model. I figured it required certain skills to remove the paint rash, but with your guide it looks like a 5 year old can do it. I'll definitely try it on my M3 CSL, thanks for the detailed steps

Don't worry I was exactly the same, so much so I was going to sell all my models that were affected but obviously as I'm able to remove the paint rash some of the models will be staying !!... It is a relatively easy process to do but I cant stress this enough you MUST take your time and be very gentle with it as it's very easy to cause damage to the paint if you rush it and your are not gentle... Please post pictures of the finished product if you can, I think all of us would like to see members models that have been cured of the paint rash.

View Postdrivinghermad, on 22 September 2015 - 02:36 PM, said:

I have seen several helpful guides on here with paint rash and have to say great effort by all for us collectors to follow.Your step by step guide is very clear and Fantastic to follow which is up there with the best on here.Thanks a lot Bro for taking the time to post this i will keep coming back before i start on my models that are affected.If you say after you have treated the model it doesn't come back then what's stopping me from going through my collection one by one hey.I have the Micro cloths already and polish.So what is the Finish compound,is it a cutting polish?As i have cutting polish and normal polish but in different names to your products.Great work Ash,well done. :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :danke: :occasion14:

View Postmairandeddy, on 22 September 2015 - 02:55 PM, said:

View PostCraig, on 22 September 2015 - 10:18 AM, said:

Great turnaround there Ashley - it looks like new now mate :eusa_clap:
By the way, I have pinned this.

:occasion14:

And rightly so!! :agreed:

When I first saw this I was inclined to merge it with one of the similar topic threads, but it is SOOOO good that it has to stand alone!!!  

Great work Ashley, :occasion14:  and (though credit to a couple of other members with similar tutorials) you have made it so easy and given us all a lot of hope!  :rock:

BTW...gotta go now as i'm off to check MY Cortina..... :hope: :hope: :hope:

Thank you very much Darren an Eddy, I'm over the moon that yourself and other members have found this guide to be useful.
@Darren, The Tamiya polishing compound is a very fine cutting/buffing compound and as it's specifically made for modeling I'd say it's more safer to use as it hasn't got any harsh abrasives, your regular 1:1 cutting compounds such as T-cut and G3 might have harsh abrasives so it may ruin the paintwork.  

View PostThe Paladin, on 22 September 2015 - 06:48 PM, said:

I agree with most of the guide except for the 6000 sheet , in my opinion is too abrassive and its easy to get a bit of decoloration, I started using that but then change to 8000 and then 12000,  it just takes more time but its safer.

I think it's a matter of how you go about the process, the 6000 sheet worked best for me... These tutorials by member aydincan are incredibly useful, Here and Here.

View PostStratosWRC, on 22 September 2015 - 07:12 PM, said:

thanks for taking the time to do this. Very helpful

View Postneo_natasha, on 22 September 2015 - 07:41 PM, said:

Great tutorial man ! Would be very useful for us !

View PostBMWE90, on 23 September 2015 - 08:30 AM, said:

definitely a super helpful guide, this should be stickied!  im gonna try this during my spare time on my kyosho models.

Thank you very much guys, It's no problem at all I'm just glad that you've found this guide useful.

#18 OFFLINE   Gavin

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Posted 24 September 2015 - 10:13 AM

wow...awesome job.

I too never realized the rash could be fixed.  Thanks a ton for posting this!  :occasion14:

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#19 OFFLINE   Retroclassics

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Posted 24 September 2015 - 10:40 AM

Thank you Gavin and it's no problem at all. :occasion14: - I thought the same but a couple of hours of free time and the right materials, your sorted!

#20 OFFLINE   TALSCTSV

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Posted 24 September 2015 - 06:16 PM

Thanks for the guide. I will definitely have to try this when I get some spare time. Some of my Kyosho's really need this.
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#21 OFFLINE   CreepyVanMan

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Posted 25 September 2015 - 02:24 AM

Awesome guide and really helpful! Especially the eBay links, always nice knowing exactly what you're talking about and ensuring the correct product.
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#22 OFFLINE   Autobahn

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Posted 03 November 2015 - 01:40 PM

I just bookmarked this page.  Thank you so much for the tutorial.  I should buy a truckload of the Meguiar's stuff anyway because I use it several times a week on my daily driver.  I will have to buy the rest of the supplies and try to get some of my worst-case scenario models fixed before my schedule gets busy around the holidays!

Thanks again!  :occasion14:
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#23 OFFLINE   Batman

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Posted 03 November 2015 - 08:49 PM

Thank you so much for the step by step guide and taking the time to do this. This is so helpful for beginners like me! Much appreciated

#24 OFFLINE   Retroclassics

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Posted 04 November 2015 - 12:00 PM

Your more than welcome guy's, I'm glad that you've all found this guide useful. :occasion14:
Remember once you've given it a go please do post your result, myself and others would be very interested in seeing how you've got on.

#25 OFFLINE   Batman

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Posted 04 November 2015 - 02:32 PM

Ashley, Do you have any advice on removing (krazyglue type) glue residue?

I just bought a model and it seems the previous owner reattached the rear spoiler/wing and left some residue/overflow on the paint in the boot/trunk area.

Thanks!



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