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Tamiya glue


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#1 OFFLINE   ferrariforever

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Posted 13 March 2018 - 10:33 AM

Hi guys,

I'm a noob in repairing models, and for the first time I'm going to glue a broken rear mirror to the body - Autoart Lotus Turbo with skis 007 version.

Which Tamiya glue do you recommand to use?

Tamiya Cement Extra Thin?
Posted Image

Or the other Tamiya glues?
Posted Image

What are the differences between these?

Thanks a lot in advance!

Best,
Frank
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#2 OFFLINE   Craig

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Posted 13 March 2018 - 10:51 AM

Extra thin is super super runny! I think you have to be quite skilled to use it (which I'm not)

I use Revell Contacta clear.

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#3 OFFLINE   ferrariforever

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Posted 13 March 2018 - 02:39 PM

Ok, thanks.

So this one I guess:
Posted Image
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#4 ONLINE   slartibartfast229

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Posted 13 March 2018 - 04:39 PM

'Cement' is for unpainted plastic to plastic only (and not chrome plated) - and will not work with resin or metal.
CA or 'superglue' is the best option, and can be best controlled by running along a needle or pin to apply.
PVA or wood/white glue will also work, but is not as strong although it should not damage paint.

#5 OFFLINE   tmnt_ppn

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 12:54 AM

Be careful with with Tamiya cement as it usually eats plastic and might leave white haze. I prefer superglue too, applied with a pin or toothpick.
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#6 OFFLINE   ferrariforever

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 01:34 AM

Thanks for the information.
On a Chinese forum people say don't use the Cyanoacrylate = super glue as it will leave marks on paint that you can't remove. But I guess I just need to be careful not messing it.
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#7 OFFLINE   Craig

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 02:57 AM

If you do use super glue, just use a small amount on a cocktail stick. It will work quicker than the Contacta Clear I mentioned, as you have to leave it for ten minutes on both parts before touching them together.

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#8 OFFLINE   ferrariforever

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 05:23 AM

Oh ok. Thanks Craig
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#9 OFFLINE   Guiddy

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 09:33 AM

I would suggest super glue but go for the gel stuff rather than the runny stuff, it's much easier to control. End of a cocktail stick as the others suggest. Then leave the model in an open area as it dries which will avoid the milky haze developing.

#10 OFFLINE   ferrariforever

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 04:48 AM

Thanks a lot for the info, I guess drying for a few hours should be sufficient right?
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#11 OFFLINE   Guiddy

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 07:36 AM

They say 24 hours for superglue - I'm sure you can wait that long until you play with it! :smile:

#12 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 04:28 AM

I always use ' Bob Smith Industries' super glues. The Super Gold+ is odourless and non fogging, it is designed specifically for clear parts (but can be used on anything) and leaves no white residue like other super glues. The pink extra thick is good for trying to glue the stalk of a mirror or such as you are not relying on a very thin layer of glue on a very minimal surface area to get a bond. Always use a tooth pick to apply the right amount of glue to the part and fix it in place. If you need to break the bond and re position the part, you can use their 'Debonder' This will break the bond and you can re try. The debonder can also be used to remove small excess glue residue from paint work or other parts. (including your skin) I highly recommend these products, since I changed over to these glues, I cannot go back to others. I hope this helps Frank.
Posted Image

#13 OFFLINE   ferrariforever

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 04:55 AM

Appreciated Rob! Given your modding skills I'm sure that's a very good glue!
May I presume I need to apply the glue to both parts before attaching them?
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#14 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 06:13 AM

 ferrariforever, on 16 March 2018 - 04:55 AM, said:

Appreciated Rob! Given your modding skills I'm sure that's a very good glue!
May I presume I need to apply the glue to both parts before attaching them?
No, you don't need to apply to both surfaces, just one surface and place the part into position until the glue dries, much easier that way to avoid any surplus glue where you never intended it to be.

#15 OFFLINE   fyrewhirl

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 09:30 AM

I use a product called Bondic, which is a UV-curing glue. It's clear, dries clear, and has a gel consistency, and you shine a UV light on it for a few seconds and it will harden up. Unfortunately some glue would have to be exposed for it to cure.

#16 OFFLINE   AOS

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Posted 30 April 2018 - 01:50 PM

Super glue can leave a white hazy residue that is difficult to clean up, especially on plastics.

Thin cement is designed to run into tight cracks and crevices. It has tighter water tension levels than water. As long as there's a fine gap between two objects that stuff will run. It doesn't work like pasty adhesives. The two objects have to make nearly full contact for that to be of any use.... and ys, best on plastics as the solution does break down polymer's molecular structure (aka "melting") to rebond the two pieces together, kinda like how weding works.

#17 OFFLINE   Dave7872

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Posted 02 May 2018 - 03:58 PM

Small amounts of SG on parts that will not really been seen is OK, But as Craig said Revell Contacta Clear is brilliant for see through plastic parts... ie, Windows lights etc.
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#18 OFFLINE   ferrariforever

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Posted 02 May 2018 - 04:30 PM

Thanks guys! I think for my broken side mirror, superglue is fine!

Any idea for my broken Maybach 62 emblem? Soldering?
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#19 ONLINE   slartibartfast229

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Posted 02 May 2018 - 04:49 PM

 ferrariforever, on 02 May 2018 - 04:30 PM, said:

Thanks guys! I think for my broken side mirror, superglue is fine!

Any idea for my broken Maybach 62 emblem? Soldering?
You will need to show us what you have.
In my experience with electronics, soldering alloys is very difficult, often requiring silver infused solder.
If my memory serves, high temperatures are required, which may warp or melt the metal.

Edited by slartibartfast229, 02 May 2018 - 04:50 PM.


#20 OFFLINE   jazzy426

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Posted 02 May 2018 - 08:22 PM

while we are on the glue subject.. i have a noob question.. does these hobby glues cure quickly or you need to hold and position the pieces together for few mins before they bond? And is the glue strong enough to hold or they can still snap and break easily? My past experience with glue is that their bond is usually weak and will break if some pressure is put on them.

I will probably need to tackle the repair job for my R33 underside again around the rear wheels... it is a real mess at the moment with plastic struts, control arms, suspension components etc all broken and need to be reglued.. i attempted with cheapo super glue before and it worked well until i tried to adjust the wheel camber recently and broke those glued parts.

About fixing the rear view mirror... one of my most recent repair was gluing the mirror back to Merc S class coupe and believe it or not all i used was Bostik Glu Stik that you can get from any stationery shops. I decided to try that out after i saw my wife using the glu stik to reattach my kid's figurine back to the base and the glue seems to hold very firmly.  The advantage of this glue is that it doesnt run and no chemical fume which will damage surrounding paint and clean up very easily. As long as you have big enough contact area for the glue it seems to hold down firmly once it is dried.

#21 OFFLINE   Craig

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Posted 03 May 2018 - 01:56 AM

Contacta clear has to be put on both parts for around ten mins so it goes tacky, then you push them together. For a door mirror it'll stay in place (best to hold it in place for a bit anyway)
For something else, like a window on an OttO model, you may need to hold or secure it for a little longer.

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#22 OFFLINE   Guiddy

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Posted 03 May 2018 - 02:02 AM

You only ever need two glues in your toolbox IMO:

Superglue Gel and Microsol Krystal Klear.

The superglue is used with a cocktail stick and the right amount placed on the part using the stick only, never try and use the glue straight out the container!
Keep the doors open on the model and don't put it in a box while it dries. Any white dew will easily wipe off.

Krystal Klear for anything to do with windows and clear parts. It's weak when wet and takes ages to dry so a bit of tape will be needed to hold something in place.
Strong when dry though and will never damage anything and is flexible when dried. If anything goes wrong just wash it away with water! It's really good for Otto windows.

So to answer your question Jazzy, Superglue Gel on the suspension and the rear view mirror, but a tiny amount on the mirror and keep the doors open as it dries.

Edited by Guiddy, 03 May 2018 - 02:05 AM.


#23 OFFLINE   jazzy426

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Posted 03 May 2018 - 08:25 AM

Thanks for the tips guys.. I think superglue gel is definitely something i should get some of the cheapo super glue i had before are super runny

#24 OFFLINE   Dave7872

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Posted 10 May 2018 - 01:29 AM

I bought this a few weeks ago and have no complaints TBH. Even has its own little brush.

Posted Image

I'll have a look for this stuff Guiddy,  Microsol Krystal Klear, Can never have enough decent glue knocking about, But not for sniffing :nice:
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#25 OFFLINE   jazzy426

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Posted 10 May 2018 - 07:54 AM

the little brush will come in handy i reckon. It is even endorsed by a gorilla so it has to be good no? My last glue didn't even have any endorsement just with a black label "super glue" against yellow background :giggle:



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