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There are other ways of doing the rear, but this works ok and looks fine.
First the front - remove material to increase the useable length of the upright, so that the mount can slide further down. You also need to cut those tabs on the rack down a fair bit.
Next make the suspension mount thinner underneath - to allow even more travel. I cut about half the thickness off. Put the wheels back on with the screw to check clearance - you have to shave off more of the wheel hub to allow the screw to clear the mount when the steering is turned.
The rear is a bit more complicated, and there are a few ways of doing it I'm sure. My method meant cutting and removing the silver wheel mounts/suspension mounts, and repositioning them about 4mm higher. You have to drill a new hole through the gearbox.
When you come to reposition the pieces, you have to add some plastic to give a flush surface to glue them onto for maximum strength.
Here is the new styrene piece glued in place, ready to have the suspension mounting glued in its raised position. The hole is yet to be drilled through the gearbox.
This picture shows the other side with the freshly drilled new hole. The other suspension parts need to be shortened a little - try it all out first to see by how much. When you come to glue everything back in place, run the axle through and fit the wheels, so that you can line everything up and get it level. The result is a good strong finish.
The model now sits correctly - a much more aggressive stance. Perhaps the front could be lowered even more by taking off a little more material.
Another easy fix is to extend the side windows down a little, by adding a thin strip of black vinyl (or you could paint a black line) just below the bottom of the windows. This now lines up with the windscreen line and looks far better.
Apologies if I've missed something. Cheers, Jamie
Edited by JimboCARS, 16 September 2018 - 01:05 AM.
