99 replies to this topic

[JRP]

Thank you gents, now that golfing is not possible due to heavy snowfall, well .... let's see.

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[JRP]

Small update

Headlamp (all plastic)




Seen from above



Swingarm - mainbody is metal with some small plastic parts added.

[JRP]

Some more items added, the eccentric hub for the rear axle, some scale hardware bolts.


Rear brake cable


Still to add is the ABS sensor and cable (scratch build)

[drivinghermad]

Loving every update.

[JRP]

The 2 pictures below taken from Paul's CD.

So this piece is not in sequence in this build but I'm still working on stuff that I want to do or am still attempting to scratch build.
Of course most will not be seen later once the fairing is attached.

Creating a banjo fitting. I need to make several of these for other places on the model.

Drill a 2mm hole here.


Take a chromed plastic bead and drill a second hole in it.
Insert soldering wire.
Heat bolt but not too much as to melt the bead but enough to connect solder wire to bolt.
Slide tubing over soldering wire
Insert cable in to engine block for further processing.



Well after 2 attempts with plastic beads I managed to sort of reproduce what Paul intended.
The soldering joint is very sketchy and prone to failing.

I managed to source some bolts with a hole from Germany - pricey.
I drilled the hole a bit bigger so the other bolt that slides in to the engine block can rotate.
Slid 2mm tubing over the 'hole' bolt and applied a bit of BMF.
On the left the parts used to create version 2, on the right the attempt with the plastic bead.



Close up of the results so far.
The cable (tubing) on the left is 2mm diameter.
Everything looks way larger in this close up macro photo.

Edited by JRP, 13 February 2021 - 05:56 AM.

[drivinghermad]

Great work, a steady hand needed here. i have seen brass eyelets for model ships like those ring end things, i used them on a wooden ship i made, must be 25 years ago now but they look very similar to these.

[JRP]

drivinghermad, on 13 February 2021 - 04:17 PM, said:

must be 25 years ago now but they look very similar to these.

Yep approx 40 years ago I built the main mast of the HMS Victory by Corel and it too had similar open bolts.

https://www.woodenmo...ictory-section/

Adding the bolts to the centre section of the Rear sprocket assembly using Scale Hardware instead of black crosshead screws



These 2 parts will now need to be glued together


1. Bit of red paint added to sprocket - adding a bit of realism - paint seal broken = screw loose.
2. The lefthand side with spring and foot levers.
3. The sidekick stand.
Partially put together and partial dry-fit. (spring & guard)



Here come some Pocher-Manual / drawing mistakes
The triangular part that connects the spring section to the pedal section is labeled DSC09 - Should be DSC08
That same part is bolted in front of part DCF28 but the manual shows behind.



I had put it together the way the manual tells you but it didn't feel right.
There are 2 triangle/boomerang shaped parts (08 and 09). The one you need here has 2 tiny letters "F" and "P"

I'll cover up the black crosshead screws with some cut down hex bolts.


The heel guard (in the smaller circle) Doesn't have bolts so I cut 2 hex bolts - sanded them down in thickness and superglued them.

[drivinghermad]

Another helpful update, thanks.

[JRP]

For those that are going to build a Pocher Ducati with Paul's Scale Hardware I have a suggestion for you.

Select the Scale Hardware folder (SH)  (see post 42)
Grab the manual and a pencil.

Identify all Pocher screws that are replaced with SH bolts
Use the pencil to note on your manual pages the SH bolt and the jpg file number for easy reference.

Pic > 1000 words.

The pic below also happens to include part DCS-09 which I mentioned earlier - is incorrect.

[drivinghermad]

A future builder here so thanks for the tips and any future tips are much appreciated, thank Daz.

[JRP]

You're welcome Daz.

Several hours putting together the left side handlebar. Not completed yet and fluid (W1-02)will be added once attached to the bike to get it (spirit) level.



Installing 9 incredibly tiny decals.


The crosshead bolt used to attach the lever (DCF-17) is better inserted from the bottom so it doesn't show.
I need to review the DVD again to ensure I didn't miss the replacement bolt instructions.

I tried to install from below but the 'holes' don't align properly and things started to bend too much.
SP-05 is an incredibly small spring.

Handle-bar upside down.

[Guiddy]

Hi Rob. Shouldn't the brake lever be black?

[JRP]

millimeters.

Guiddy, on 17 February 2021 - 09:51 AM, said:

Hi Rob. Shouldn't the brake lever be black?

Thanks for your thoughts - appreciated!

I have so far found 2 different colours, the way I have it and pics with black lever but the switch cluster in 'silver' colour.
I opted for this combo.

Already thinking about how to get the chain more realistic - it is soooo shiny. Perhaps a wash with black paint.

Edited by JRP, 17 February 2021 - 10:08 AM.

[drivinghermad]

Thanks again for the update and taking the time to show us, the mind boggles with the little decals. I have just had notice my kit is on it's way and will be here tomorrow so not long to wait earlier than expected. Keep the updates coming as every little helps.

[JRP]

I would be further along were it not for waiting on stuff from the US and other places.
Still in lockdown so everything local needs to be sent through the post.
Ordering a €5,- item + €7,- euro postage makes it expensive.

Perhaps I should start a gofundme to kee the cost down.  

But I'm in no hurry.

[JRP]

The container is isolated by 2 small O-rings (scratch build)

A drop of cement is dropped in the container to seal the hole in the bottom. A short hose is attached below (J46 see manual above - post 86)
Once the handlebar is attached to the bike - fluid (clear yellow) will be added.
The crosshead screw holding the lever has been replaced.

Ideally I would suggest getting hold of a few 2x8mm Hex Socket Set Grub Screws (Google). Pocher uses screw 'G'
PK doesn't provide anything for the levers.



PK mentions drilling the hole deeper for the black hex bolt that attaches the bracket to the steering handle.
I sanded off a bit to make the bolt shorter, it's not as if there's a lot of weight that needs to be carried

The handle endpart needs to have its chrome removed - aluminium to be applied.

Edited by JRP, 18 February 2021 - 07:06 AM.

[drivinghermad]

I love it, the detail is so good.
I got my display case today but no 1/4 model kit as i see on Jadlam it is still on pre order but on their email and all correspondence it says i have received it And they don't answer emails quickly.

[JRP]

Daz, which Ducati did you get? v1 and v2 are sold out (except on evil bay) and v3 is supposed to arrive in july. Which display case did you receive? The overpriced Pocher or did you find something more realistically priced.....

[drivinghermad]

Bought V3 and it still says Pre order but the emails say they have sent the kit and the (overpriced) Display case. i assume it's a automated email as it is plain to see the kit is still on pre order. I bought both as Jadlam have interest free three payments so i thought i would buy both at the same time, i am happy with the deal just not the communication and correct info from the company. I managed to get the Huge box the display case came in while the missus was at work and the driver said the other (Kit) box may well be on the later delivery van so here was me looking out of the window most of the afternoon trying to catch the driver before the missus did, no one came LOL. Hope i get a update from them to acknowledge my sweaty palm emails to them over this.

[JRP]

Righthand side wip.


The canister has 2 holes which I pugged with a drop of glue. Later 'fluid' will be added.


Spring tension pin - the little thing you see at the bottom (halfway on the cable)
I found these and will probably use them to fake a metal connection between 2 tubes.
The one shown here is 2x4mm but I have various lengths.
You could also use BMF (bare metal foil) or Aluminium foil + glue.

[JRP]

Added 9 decals and clear coated - rear wheel
Also sanded both tyres but in dubio with the end results


Revisiting the front wheel as the Pocher manual is not clear.
This is what it should be

Left


Right
Thick ridge around the centre hub.


I'd love to add both wheels to the frame but awaiting ABS sensor cables from USA.... need to be a little bit more patient.

The small round thingies that 'connect' the brake-disc to the black disc-hub are originally black. I painted the visible flat side only in silver
BUT I think a better result would be to sand the flat (visible) side instead. These connectors are small metal pieces.
See post 34 for details.

Edited by JRP, 22 February 2021 - 10:04 AM.

[drivinghermad]

Fantastic close ups, loving this.

[Guiddy]

What is confusing about the tyre is that the cuts in it go opposite to what you would imagine, and the other way to the rear! It could me out on my Tamiya version!

Looking great though

[drivinghermad]

Didn't spot that, Mr keen eye, well spotted. I will constantly look for that on built models on the net the next time i look at them.

[JRP]

Happy bunny - package from USA arrived today. Now I can install ABS sensor cables and add both wheel assemblies to the main frame.

Guiddy, on 22 February 2021 - 01:45 PM, said:

What is confusing about the tyre is that the cuts in it go opposite to what you would imagine, and the other way to the rear! It could me out on my Tamiya version!

Indeed the front tyre pushes the water inwards and the rear tyre outwards.


Update: Pochers front wheel tread is correct though - a video with a real Panigale shows the same pattern.

Edited by JRP, Today, 02:43 AM.