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JDM Lamborghini Countach 'Mid Night Racing' custom Lambo


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#1 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 03 March 2020 - 01:34 AM

The one thing why I love Japanese car culture (JDM and exotic cars) is that they are not afraid to modify any car, ANY CAR! And that includes exotic cars. And that brings us to this Lamborghini Countach in Japan by Mid night racing. Not only have they heavily modified this Lambo, but they actually tracked it on a regular basis, and on one occasion, crashed it on track and ripped out the back left corner of the car. I saw a video of a Japanese workshop rebuilding the car and the car is now back to how it was. I always wanted to mod a Lambo Countach and this is the one to do it. This is the real car and also a pic on the day it was crashed at the track.
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And this is the model I will be using as a base. It is a 1/18 GT Spirit Koenig Lamborghini Countach that I bought off eBay for $50 as it had a broken off and missing rear wing blade. There is quite a bit of body work to do on this one, including wider front fenders, fixed head lights where the pop up headlights were, revised side skirts and so on. Also a deep dish set of wheels, but keeping the full red interior. This is going to be fun.
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These are the parts I have gathered for the build, new rear wing and front bumper/chin spoiler from AUTOart spares, new deep dish rims from TK and when I pulled apart the last Diablo, I took a mold of the rear SV engine cover. Bad casting as it has a ton of pin holes in it, but I will fill all the holes and it will be good as new.
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First time pulling a GT Spirit model apart, but just like all the others, all glued together with hot glue and came apart pretty easy.
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Just a look with the new wheels under the body, but the body will have to come down much lower. Anyway, more to come. Cheers
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#2 OFFLINE   T1000

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Posted 03 March 2020 - 02:39 AM

This is going to be quite interesting :drool5:
I'll be back
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Rammstein lights the match again!
..-. --- .-. --.. .- | ..-. . .-. .-. .- .-. ..

#3 OFFLINE   Craig

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Posted 03 March 2020 - 04:12 AM

This is one crazy project!! I like!!

F**k you Photobucket.



Please feel free to check out my 1/18 collection HERE


#4 OFFLINE   StratosWRC

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Posted 03 March 2020 - 08:10 AM

Oooo cool. I also find myself ooh-ing and aah-ing (sometimes not in a good way, mind you) at some of the modified exotics in Japan
I mod stuff

Wes

#5 OFFLINE   msousa71

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Posted 04 March 2020 - 08:48 AM

Just as I see you tackle a your more recent difficult custom builds with your Gallardo , Ferrari and the Diablo ...you start another one at the same custom difficulty level or more :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap:

#6 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 04 March 2020 - 03:58 PM

View PostT1000, on 03 March 2020 - 02:39 AM, said:

This is going to be quite interesting :drool5:
Thanks T, and hopefully doable  

View PostCraig, on 03 March 2020 - 04:12 AM, said:

This is one crazy project!! I like!!
Cheers mate, something out of the box and not the norm

View PostStratosWRC, on 03 March 2020 - 08:10 AM, said:

Oooo cool. I also find myself ooh-ing and aah-ing (sometimes not in a good way, mind you) at some of the modified exotics in Japan
Thanks Wes, yeah there are some not so nice cars as well, but it doesn't matter what part of the world, the car scene has the gems and the shockers!

View Postmsousa71, on 04 March 2020 - 08:48 AM, said:

Just as I see you tackle a your more recent difficult custom builds with your Gallardo , Ferrari and the Diablo ...you start another one at the same custom difficulty level or more :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap: :eusa_clap:
Haha, I just like to keep pushing my abilities to make myself a better model builder

#7 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 11 March 2020 - 03:03 AM

UPDATE 11/03/2020

Well for those that read my status update, disaster struck on this build. I was lloking for a paint stripper that was good for RESIN models, and after ready lots of info on different forums, Zero Paints Metal and resin paint stripper seemed to be used quite widely. I purchased some of this product and followed their instruction, which said brush on the stripper to the painted surface and it will take between 15 minutes to an hour for the paint to be removed. I kept checking the progress every 15 minutes and the paint was hardly budging, at around 35 minutes I was having a closer look at the body and was horrified that it had started to eat the resin away quite badly, mostly the front bumper was nearly all eaten away and all the vent louvers were dissolving as well as the edges on the flares and other parts too.
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As you can see, this whole body is completely F***ed and no where near savable, so this project is now dead in the water. I will now move onto something else and let this be a lesson for anyone else considering using this product on resin models. Lucky I tried this product on a model that only cost me AUD$120, and not a high end BBR, MR or Peako model. Thanks for checking in on this build, I wish it had a happier ending. Oh well, tough lesson learned! Cheers, Rob

#8 OFFLINE   BaseGTR

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Posted 11 March 2020 - 03:23 AM

Man that's painful, glad it was a cheaper model and not high end! You should feed this back to them if you haven't already and see what they say. Saying it's for resin but not to use it on plastic is treading in murky waters as those words get mixed up quite a lot in this hobby.

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#9 OFFLINE   msousa71

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Posted 11 March 2020 - 07:02 AM

Rob i just posted a thread on this exact subject matter a few days ago ..I am in the process of trying to figure out how to strip a MR model and will be testing the best solution for striping resin and will post my results ,, sorry to hear this happened , thanks for sharing so somone does not make the same mistake ..

#10 OFFLINE   Supra Mkiv

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Posted 11 March 2020 - 09:41 AM

2 Lessons I learned over time:

1) just sand resin models, don't touch it with any chemicals.

2) never use zero paints products
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#11 OFFLINE   RSIevolution

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Posted 11 March 2020 - 03:14 PM

Thank you for sharing Rob. Sad to hear about this. It looks awful. I would buy a Bburago Countach and keep going if you really want to do this project.
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#12 OFFLINE   gvkcustoms

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Posted 11 March 2020 - 10:29 PM

Yikes!!

I learnt a long time ago that Resins are tremendously hard to strip. (Or at least I haven't been able to find the right solution that can do so without eating into the resin)

I don't bother stripping them any more... sand them down and paint... the end result looks as good as you would get if you stripped them.
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#13 OFFLINE   Petey

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Posted 13 March 2020 - 04:48 AM

Ouch thatís a painful loss. I use regular 2k thinners to strip paint off resin. I just save up all my dirty thinners from cleaning my guns and airbrushes etc and then pour however much I need into a container to strip/clean up things.
Iíve done it on small homemade resin parts, wheels from TK-Diecast and a golf R32 by Otto and had no problems. The golf had the original blue paint and then several layers of acrylic spray paint primer/colour/clear and it took probably 48-36hrs of soaking, scrubbing and repeating but it got 95% of the paint off, just donít use anything hard to scrape away at the paint as it does sort of soften the surface (it could just be me) but once itís all rinsed washed and dried etc itís perfectly fine again

And for plastic parts use surgical spirit / ipa - Iíve used that on various repainted autoart plastic parts and it works very well and very quickly
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#14 OFFLINE   StratosWRC

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Posted 13 March 2020 - 06:46 AM

this would make a cool barn find dioarama hahaha

...too soon?
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#15 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 13 March 2020 - 05:18 PM

View PostBaseGTR, on 11 March 2020 - 03:23 AM, said:

Man that's painful, glad it was a cheaper model and not high end! You should feed this back to them if you haven't already and see what they say. Saying it's for resin but not to use it on plastic is treading in murky waters as those words get mixed up quite a lot in this hobby.
I am going one better, I am going to make a video about it on YouTube,

View Postmsousa71, on 11 March 2020 - 07:02 AM, said:

Rob i just posted a thread on this exact subject matter a few days ago ..I am in the process of trying to figure out how to strip a MR model and will be testing the best solution for striping resin and will post my results ,, sorry to hear this happened , thanks for sharing so somone does not make the same mistake ..
Happy for my mistake to guide others not to do the same thing

View PostSupra Mkiv, on 11 March 2020 - 09:41 AM, said:

2 Lessons I learned over time:

1) just sand resin models, don't touch it with any chemicals.

2) never use zero paints products
Got it. Never again

View PostRSIevolution, on 11 March 2020 - 03:14 PM, said:

Thank you for sharing Rob. Sad to hear about this. It looks awful. I would buy a Bburago Countach and keep going if you really want to do this project.
Thanks. I will maybe come back to this custom model later down the track, but with so many models in the queue to build, I will now move onto another one to clear my anger lol

View Postthe4thlord, on 11 March 2020 - 10:29 PM, said:

Yikes!!

I learnt a long time ago that Resins are tremendously hard to strip. (Or at least I haven't been able to find the right solution that can do so without eating into the resin)

I don't bother stripping them any more... sand them down and paint... the end result looks as good as you would get if you stripped them.
Agree that is the easier way and I probably should have done that

View PostPetey, on 13 March 2020 - 04:48 AM, said:

Ouch that's a painful loss. I use regular 2k thinners to strip paint off resin. I just save up all my dirty thinners from cleaning my guns and airbrushes etc and then pour however much I need into a container to strip/clean up things.
I've done it on small homemade resin parts, wheels from TK-Diecast and a golf R32 by Otto and had no problems. The golf had the original blue paint and then several layers of acrylic spray paint primer/colour/clear and it took probably 48-36hrs of soaking, scrubbing and repeating but it got 95% of the paint off, just don't use anything hard to scrape away at the paint as it does sort of soften the surface (it could just be me) but once it's all rinsed washed and dried etc it's perfectly fine again

And for plastic parts use surgical spirit / ipa - I've used that on various repainted autoart plastic parts and it works very well and very quickly
I did try used 2K thinner once before but it did not budge the paint, but I only had it soaking for a few hours. I will try soaking it for much longer to see how that works. Others say brake fluid for stripping paint off resins, whats your take on that?

View PostStratosWRC, on 13 March 2020 - 06:46 AM, said:

this would make a cool barn find dioarama hahaha

...too soon?
:giggle:

#16 OFFLINE   Petey

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Posted 14 March 2020 - 04:40 AM

Iíve never tried brake fluid to be honest, but Iíve heard the same thing

I had to key the paint up pretty good for the thinners to penetrate, the clear they use is pretty resilient, I just scuffed it up with 120 to give the thinners a fighting chance
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#17 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 14 March 2020 - 06:25 AM

View PostPetey, on 14 March 2020 - 04:40 AM, said:

I've never tried brake fluid to be honest, but I've heard the same thing

I had to key the paint up pretty good for the thinners to penetrate, the clear they use is pretty resilient, I just scuffed it up with 120 to give the thinners a fighting chance
Good to know Pete, thanks for the reply

#18 OFFLINE   looney

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Posted 14 March 2020 - 04:13 PM

what a terrible shame.

I can advise i've had great success with brake fluid on plastic before, so it may translate to resin.

Although this was a loss, perhaps you can salvage something from this. You can use the ruined model to put a coat of paint or 2, and use it to test a few techniques to remove the paint.

#19 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 13 June 2020 - 04:07 AM

UPDATE 13/06/2020

Well we are on again with this build. I still really wanted to build this model, and since CarLoverDiecast in China was having a sale on, I managed to grab one of these GT Spirit Countach 5000 QV's in white which is a much closer donor model to the real car I was copying. I still have all the parts for the build, so time to get this one built.

This is the standard model in white. I bought one of these in red as well, so I am going to swap interiors, white interior into the red version and that stays in the collection. And then the red interior is required for this white JDM Countach. So here we go again. Oh, and I'm not going to strip the paint off this one, just sand it back and repaint it!

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Parts I still have for the build. Probably don't need the extra front bumper as this QV has the correct one already, but I do need to graft on the Diablo SV air scooped engine cover, and fit a little duck tail wing under the standard wing using some Huracan resin ducktails I had in the spares box. Plus the wheels and tyres I already had for the build
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And these are the same wheels at the start of this thread, I chrome painted them in Molotow when I was doing the same on the Ferrari 333 SP build not long ago. Added the tyres and some Pirelli P Zero decals and these are good to go.
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More to come on this build shortly. Thanks for looking. Cheers

#20 ONLINE   cannondancer

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Posted 13 June 2020 - 06:32 AM

Rob, your modification skills are absolutely brilliant. Plus, I need to thank you for posting photos of the original GT Spirit QV. Now I have zero interest in adding one to my Lambo collection!
Looking forward to seeing the results of your conversion though.

#21 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 13 June 2020 - 06:55 AM

View Postcannondancer, on 13 June 2020 - 06:32 AM, said:

Rob, your modification skills are absolutely brilliant. Plus, I need to thank you for posting photos of the original GT Spirit QV. Now I have zero interest in adding one to my Lambo collection!
Looking forward to seeing the results of your conversion though.
Thanks mate. You don't like the GT Spirit Countach QV? Decent if you can get on cheap.

#22 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 16 June 2020 - 03:52 AM

UPDATE 16/06/2020

So today I got the GT Spirit model pulled apart and the red one I have too. I wanted the red interior out of the red QV, so this will be kept for this white JDM Countach. But now that I have the red model apart, I think I am going to repaint it baby blue and fit the white interior. We'll see.

Anyway, back onto this build, here's the model in pieces
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#23 OFFLINE   preisman

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Posted 16 June 2020 - 05:31 AM

Awesome, you started this up again. That is great, hope it turns out well.

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Posted 27 June 2020 - 10:38 PM

UPDATE 28/06/2020

Started all the serious cutting and grinding today and I gave the Dremel a real work out and ended up with a huge pile of resin dust on my work bench ...LOL
First is the pop up head lights, these have been deleted on the real car and fixed head lights replace them. So I added some Tamiya panel line accent into the gap so I could see my cut line easier.
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I then cut the edges with a fine saw blade cutter, then ground all the inside mass out with a grinding tip. I will then line these with styrene sheet to build a new square housing
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Next I had to remove the side strakes in the side skirts
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I used a ball cutter head to remove the strakes, then used a tiny cutter to cut the air ducts much further in than the standard model
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Now this Countach has a Diablo SV engine cover fitted, so I cast a copy of a AUTOart part and this will have to be trimmed to fit into the Countach body
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This has to fit here........
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I then cut out the sides of the opening in the body as close as possible and also cut the QV hump off the top of the engine panel as well
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I then trimmed my resin SV engine panel down to size
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This process took a lot of time, but in the end, I got it pretty close. It will have to be glued in place and then molded in the the stock edges remaining of the standard engine lid so that it looks like a stock fitting part
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Rear view, I will also have to add 2 flat fins behind this SV engine lid just like the 30th Anniversary Diablo Jota has. I may remove that last black horizontal vent too.
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It is only roughed in at this stage, but I am happy with the progress so far. It should not take too much more effort to finish this off.
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Next is the ride height of this car, the real one is slammed and you can see here with my wheels for this model sitting under the fenders, it sits way too high.
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I took a massive amount of resin out of the inside wheel arches on both rear sides. This is a challenging task as it is hard to know how far you can go before you come out the other side!
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I pushed it a little too far. This can be easily fixed by gluing the inside of the break through with some thick superglue, then putty fill the outside and sand it smooth before paint. Not too worried at this stage
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But looking at the positive side of it, the car now sits so low just like the real car, I love it. Slammed on air always looks soooo good.
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Next is the duck tail wing under the big standard rear wing. I had a few of these Alpha Models LB Lamborghini Huracan duck tails left over, so this will wok and save me scratch building one.
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I cut it a little over length to the size required.
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Now this Huracan duck tail has a slight curve to it, so I put the resin part in a dish of boiling hot water for about 2 minutes and then pulled it out and straightened the part and held it in place till it cooled. This is an easy way to straighten resin parts. Sitting in place on the model and this looks like a perfect match for the real one. Just goes to show that never throw anything out as a model builder. You never know what you can re use years later.
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So today's work has been around 4 hours, but I am happy with the progress. This is all the major cutting and grinding done to form the basis of the mods on this model, everything from here is fine tuning. But the model is already looking like the real car, I am pumped on this one. Here is a quick look at the mock up. Thanks for looking, Cheers
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#25 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 11:35 PM

UPDATE 30/06/2020

Day off work today, so I have spent the last 4/5 hours working on this build. So I started with filling the body in between the front light covers and the rear head light bucket cutout as the shaft of the Dremel cutter ground some of this away. I just used Tamiya putty
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I then made a card template for the first piece of styrene that will form the bottom of the new head light enclosure
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Then I cut out the styrene off the templates. Have no idea why this picture is so dark and yellow. Sorry
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I then made the rest of these enclosures all out of 1mm thick styrene sheet
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These were then glued into the resin body
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These will be the new head lights for the new fixed head lights. These came from Legende-Miniatures and measure 7mm X 2.75mm and are perfect in size for this new enclosure
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I then filled the edges in Tamiya putty which when sanded will blend this all into looking like one piece
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Then onto fixing the break through's in the rear fender flares. First I put some masking tape on the outside of the flare over the break through, then smeared superglue on the inside of the break through
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Then after the glue dried, I sanded the outside surface flush to smooth it out. Worked great
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I then made a tiny sanding block and sanded the inside channel of the side skirt where the fins were deleted
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I then smeared some Tamiya filler to fill any small scratches
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I originally cut out the side of the body to fit my resin SV engine air scoop cover, but I sanded that part down really thin, so that left a large gap either side of the original body, so I want to back fill these so that when the SV cover gets glued in place, it looks much better despite the fact that you probably will not see hardly any of it.
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Before I went any further, I made a template of the top of the engine cover, as when the SV cover gets glued on for good, I will not be able to paint it matt black as I will not be able to get a brush in there to paint it. So I will paint a piece of thin styrene, then slide it into place after the body is painted white.
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I then mixed up some Tamiya 2 part quick dry putty and pushed it into place in the large holes either side
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I then pushed the SV cover into place flush with the sides.
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I then removed the SV cover leaving the depression for the cover to fit back in when the putty has dried
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With the left over putty, I filled the inner air scoops in the front valance as the real car only has single vents either side
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After the putty had dried for an hour, I used a sharp knife to remove the excess putty sort of flush to the original side shape of the body. When the putty is fully dried, I will sand this edge and prime it prior to fitting the SV cover for good
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Quite unique this Countach to have a SV engine cover, but I quite like it.
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I then made the 2 styrene flat strips that fit behind the SV cover. These are just sitting there and not glued yet
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Duck tail spoiler sitting in place again. This Countach certainly has a lot of extra parts
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Rear wing sitting back in place too. This is all I can get done today, but more to come. This model is coming along quite quickly. Cheers, Rob
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