Version 2 - Ferrari 333SP Team Shell / MOMO - ROBSMC's Portfolio - DiecastXchange.com Diecast Cars Forums

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Version 2 - Ferrari 333SP Team Shell / MOMO


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#1 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 09 May 2020 - 01:53 AM

Most will know I love the Ferrari 333 SP race car and especially the MOMO livery cars. I have the BBR sealed resin MOMO / Cristal version and I also last year made my own version of the MOMO car out of a HWE model. Well I wanted to add this other version of it in yellow with the Shell and MOMO livery so time to build another one. This is the car I am copying
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And this is the donor model which I picked up off ebay for AUD$80.00   Bargain!
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Model out of the box and a few parts for the build. These gold BBS wheels came off the GT Spirit Koenig F50 that I just did a wheel swap on, and I found a new decal supplier that made the exact decal sheet for this car. Sweet
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This is the decal sheet from Tailor Made Decals and comes in all different scales, this is of course the 1/18 sheet. They make alot of different decal sheets for mostly racing cars, check em out.
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Model mostly disassembled, really easy and quick
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Time to strip all the paint off the body
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Paint stripped and ready to start the metal fab
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Rear engine lid will need the rear right hand side air scoop. This part came from Legende Miniatures years ago
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I made a masking tape template of the shape first
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I then positioned the template on the body and stuck it in place
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Traced around the template and removed the tape. I will cut this out about 1mm inside the line and then keep trimming the resin scoop until it fits in tight. The it can be glued in place
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These little inner ears of the front air scoop have to be cut off
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I then measured the MOMO decal that came with the sheet and made a template for that and stuck it into position. I then used a piece of clear acetone sheet and marked out the shape of the large side scoop that is on this real car. This is easier than drawing lots of lines on the body so I could fine tune the shape
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I then cut out the template from the acetone sheet and then traced the shape on both sides with a marker. I can then cut out the shape and then build the inner shape of the scoop out of styrene sheet
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And these inner metal stems have to be cut away. No loss here as they are the model mounting lugs for the model to be screwed to the HWE base.
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Tomorrow I can start all the metal cutting and filing. More to come. Cheers

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#2 OFFLINE   ibj40

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Posted 09 May 2020 - 07:19 AM

Ambitious project!

Going to follow you on this one.

Good Luck!

#3 OFFLINE   Craig

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Posted 09 May 2020 - 08:14 AM

Really nice, can't wait too see this one  :)

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#4 OFFLINE   vulpex

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Posted 09 May 2020 - 09:03 AM

Looking very much forward to follow this project!!! :yahoo:

#5 ONLINE   jandro_f1

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Posted 09 May 2020 - 01:39 PM

Really nice project man! That car engine is amazing how it sounds. Looking forward to see more.

Edited by jandro_f1, 09 May 2020 - 01:50 PM.


#6 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 09 May 2020 - 11:42 PM

View Postibj40, on 09 May 2020 - 07:19 AM, said:

Ambitious project!

Going to follow you on this one.

Good Luck!
Thanks Jim, not too many mods to be honest

View PostCraig, on 09 May 2020 - 08:14 AM, said:

Really nice, can't wait too see this one  :)
Cheers Craig, should be another quick build

View Postvulpex, on 09 May 2020 - 09:03 AM, said:

Looking very much forward to follow this project!!! :yahoo:
Thanks Dirk

View Postjandro_f1, on 09 May 2020 - 01:39 PM, said:

Really nice project man! That car engine is amazing how it sounds. Looking forward to see more.
Cheers, best sounding race engine for sure

#7 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 09 May 2020 - 11:56 PM

UPDATE 10/05/2020

Started all the metal work today by cutting the inner screw posts off
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I start all these areas to be cut out by drilling a hole in each corner and I can use a thin cut off wheel on the dremel and just join the dots
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Cut out with the Dremel, then I use a file to smooth the cut and get it closer to the line
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I then slightly sand the edges of the resin part until it fits tight. I can now glue this part into the metal body and then use filler to fill the edges
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I also cut out the cooling slots in the rear as well, and same as the last model like this I made, I over cut the slots, so I will have to add some filler at the end of the slots to even them up
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Inner ears cut off in the front air scoop openings
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Side scoops cut out with and filed to shape
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Diecast was pretty thick here, so I went through a few cutting disc's
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Body sitting over the floor and you can see the face of the side mount radiator in there. I will build the scoop opening out of styrene sheet to meet up to these radiators both sides
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The resin scoop was super thick on the underside, so I had to sand it down in thickness and luckily when the rear clam is in place, it clears the suspension underneath
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Underside view of the back of the scoop I just fitted. I will have to make an oil cooler that sits in this position.
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This took a few hours today. More to come. Cheers

#8 OFFLINE   msousa71

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Posted 10 May 2020 - 04:52 AM

Nice job so far Rob , its a good thing you have a collection of spare parts that always come in handy for your future builds

#9 OFFLINE   slartibartfast229

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Posted 10 May 2020 - 07:17 AM

Those are excellent cutting skills!
I'm not sure I could match your standards, having had nightmares with injected plastic kits...   :gaah:

#10 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 13 May 2020 - 03:42 AM

View Postmsousa71, on 10 May 2020 - 04:52 AM, said:

Nice job so far Rob , its a good thing you have a collection of spare parts that always come in handy for your future builds
Cheers mate, I never throw anything away as you never know when it might come in handy for other builds

View Postslartibartfast229, on 10 May 2020 - 07:17 AM, said:

Those are excellent cutting skills!
I'm not sure I could match your standards, having had nightmares with injected plastic kits...   :gaah:
Just practice i guess

#11 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 13 May 2020 - 03:55 AM

UPDATE 13/05/2020

Today i glued in the rear scoop into the rear clam shell just with superglue
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Next I applied all the Tamiya filler to the edges of the scoop so it can be all blended in
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Underside too
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And I added some filler to the over cut slots. I will sand this back and re cut the slots more carefully
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Looking at pics of this yellow 333 SP, I noticed that the side sill is completely flat, so this rolled bottom edge of the diecast body had to go. More diecast grinding!
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I used the milling cutter on the Dremel to remove the bulk of the diecast, then used a sanding drum to flush it all up, then a few different grades of sandpaper to get it much smoother. This will still be skimmed with Tamiya putty once the side scoops are built from styrene sheet to smooth everything out
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This is how it now sits over the factory side step, which will now have to have carbon decal applied as you see much more of it
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And I just made a start on the card templates for the top and bottom styrene sheet pieces that will form the inner scoop. More to come
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#12 OFFLINE   vulpex

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Posted 13 May 2020 - 10:28 AM

Very much enjoy to see the progress step by step - thanks for sharing, Rob! :rock:
Just curious: What are your plans for the wind screen?

Edited by vulpex, 13 May 2020 - 10:29 AM.


#13 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 13 May 2020 - 05:55 PM

View Postvulpex, on 13 May 2020 - 10:28 AM, said:

Very much enjoy to see the progress step by step - thanks for sharing, Rob! :rock:
Just curious: What are your plans for the wind screen?
Thanks Dirk, I have been playing around with some thin acetate sheet for the windscreen. Not sure it will work, but was thinking of painting the metal part black, and then applying a tinted acetone windscreen over that. I will have a play around with it before the body is painted to see if it will work.

#14 OFFLINE   CentenarioAndVeneno

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Posted 13 May 2020 - 06:03 PM

Looking good so far Rob.

#15 OFFLINE   StratosWRC

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Posted 13 May 2020 - 08:24 PM

Looking good. Love the body mods and the explanations
I mod stuff

Wes

#16 OFFLINE   X-Filer

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Posted 14 May 2020 - 04:16 AM

Oh boy, oh boy! Here we go again!! :lurker:
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#17 OFFLINE   Sebastian

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Posted 15 May 2020 - 03:01 AM

Not a big fan of this kind of racing cars, but your progress and metal work is excellent and inspiring as always. Thanks for sharing your work again :yahoo:

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#18 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 16 May 2020 - 01:04 AM

View PostCentenarioAndVeneno, on 13 May 2020 - 06:03 PM, said:

Looking good so far Rob.
Thanks buddy

View PostStratosWRC, on 13 May 2020 - 08:24 PM, said:

Looking good. Love the body mods and the explanations
Cheers Wes,

View PostX-Filer, on 14 May 2020 - 04:16 AM, said:

Oh boy, oh boy! Here we go again!! :lurker:
Got that right, what started as a simple build has now grown

View PostSebastian, on 15 May 2020 - 03:01 AM, said:

Not a big fan of this kind of racing cars, but your progress and metal work is excellent and inspiring as always. Thanks for sharing your work again :yahoo:
Cheers Seb

#19 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 16 May 2020 - 01:47 AM

UPDATE 16/05/2020

More work today and I started by building the side vents. I transferred the template shapes onto some styrene sheet. 3mm thick for the bottom inside faces and 1mm thick for the top insides as these have a slight curve to them
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I then glued these piece in behind the diecast with superglue, as I find this is the best to glue styrene to diecast
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Making sure the bottom pieces are perfectly horizontal
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I then made a card template for the vertical face of the scoop, easier to keep trimming card than wasting styrene sheet. Had a few goes to get it right
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I then transferred that to 1mm thick styrene and cut it out. Then bent it to have a bit of a curve just with my fingers, then glued it into place
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Here you can see the inside, easy just to run a bead of glue along the edges that you don't see. Super strong bond
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Before I glued the other side in place, I just made a template of the inner face of the styrene so that when I glue the other side in place, the scoops are the same
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Flipped the template over, sat it in the scoop and marked the line of the styrene face
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Then glued that face in place. Test fitted the body over the chassis and it sits pretty good with the scoops feeding directly in front of the HWE side radiators
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Underside showing the symetrical scoops
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I then filed the transition between the diecast and the styrene sheet just to take off any vertical edge in the join
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Then applied all the putty. I didn't need much putty in the opening of the scoops, but applied alot on the diecast sides as there are lots of scratches and grind marks from where I ground off the lower diecast sill. Once all the putty dries, I will be able to sand most of this away, just leaving the scratches filled. That's the plan anyway. Fingers crossed
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Other side
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While the putty is drying, I decided to tackle the racing seat. It is red in the yellow car I am building, so this is a quick mod and relatively easy
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I removed the side bars and harnesses from the seat
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Then removed all the black flocking from the seat using Goo Gone ( Wes's tip and still using it. Cheers Wes)
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I then masked up the sides of the seat and the sides of the head rest cushion, and applied some Tamiya white to them both rather than painting the red paint over the black plastic.
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Masking removed, and ready to paint
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I always use Tamiya enamel (in a matt, not a gloss) for the flocking process as it dries slower than acrylic allowing the flocking powder to stick to the paint.
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I then apply a liberal coating of matt red paint, but still a smooth coat, and then sprinkle the flocking powder through a tea strainer onto the wet paint. Let it dry for about 3-5 minutes, then hold the part upside down and tap with my finger to shake all the excess away. I did a tutorial video on Youtube of the process if anyone is interested. This red flocked seat should look pretty good in a yellow car.
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While the seat is drying, I decided to play around with the canopy windscreen. It is dark tinted on the real car, and the model it is diecast. I am planning to paint the meatal part black, then apply a acetate tinted piece over the top. Not sure if this will work or look terrible so this is all trail and error as I have never done this before, but hey, it is worth a try. First a made a template out of masking tape.
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The I transferred the tape to some thin acetate sheet, cut it out and it is holding in position with some tape over the metal body.
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Follows the shape pretty good but due to the radius of the screen, the acetate and conforms one way, so it is a bit higher in the back center, but this may work to my advantage, giving a bit of space between the black painted stock metal and the underside of the tinted acetate. I will use Tamiya Smoke to tint the underside.
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The seat had dried and I re attached the side bars and the racing harnesses. Pretty happy with how this came out. That is all I had time for today, so more to come. Cheers
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#20 OFFLINE   StratosWRC

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Posted 16 May 2020 - 07:48 AM

Wow the seat came out so nice!
I mod stuff

Wes

#21 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 16 May 2020 - 10:35 PM

Thanks Wes, it's funny that in these pictures, it still looks kind of furry, but in the flesh it looks so much better.

UPDATE 17/05/2020

Today the finished seat was glued back into the chassis
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Next I decided to make the side radiator faces that will be visible through the new side scoops. Just some 0.5mm styrene sheet and some photo etch radiator grille from Crazy Modeller
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Stuck the mesh to the styrene sheet, then sprayed them in Tamiya silver leaf
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Cut them to size and sitting in behind the vent. Happy with that.
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Sanded all the putty on the rear engine clam
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Then sanded all the putty of the sides of the body and the inside of the scoop. Looks like most of it has been sanded away, but it has filled the smaller scratches I think
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Other side
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Some grey primer on the rear clam to identify any areas that need more putty. Just a couple of touch ups and it will be ready to 2K prime
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Same on the body, some grey primer to find any gaps in the styrene joins. Just some very minor filling and this will be good to 2K prime as well
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Almost there with the body, can't wait to paint this one and decal it up!
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Next I decided to play around with the wheels. The HWE wheels have a 4.7mm stem on the back of the wheels, and the GT Spirit BBS wheels have a 5.7mm stem, so I drilled out the center of the brake rotors so they will slip in place
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The new wheels now slip on, the front wheels are ok, but the rear wheels need WAY more dish, so I am going to modify these using the barrel of the HWE rear wheels. Here we go!
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The plan is to combine these two together into one wheel. Keeping the outer face lip of the BBS wheel, the center and rear stem of the BBS wheel, and the deep barrel of the HWE wheel
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Now I get to play with my new toy. This is the Dremel Workstation which holds your Dremel multi tool in its cradle, and you can now use it as a drill, a milling machine and other uses as well. I will discover more ways to use this over the next few custom models, but for now, this is perfect to accurately trim the wheel barrels into pieces. Oh, and it costs AUD $49 for this Dremel workstation, not including the Dremel multi tool
So I fitted the mini saw blade bit, set the height, and then cut the top outer ring of the BBS wheel by just turning it around and letting the saw blade do the work. This worked great and cut it perfectly square.
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Close up of the cutting and the wheel after I cut the top outer ring off
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So the BBS outer ring will then be glued onto the HWE wheel barrel, maybe the other side.
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I then put the BBS wheel face down, and then cut off the whole back of the barrel
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I then sanded all the excess of the outside of the BBS center so it will insert into the HWE wheel barrel
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I then cut the spokes out of the center of the HWE wheels, leaving the outer ring edge as the BBS centers can be glued onto the ring making the wheel become one.
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I flipped the HWE wheels over and am using the larger dish of the back of the HWE wheel, BBS inserted in for a test fit and the BBS outer lip sitting in place. This is going to work.
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I then super glued the BBS chrome outer onto the back of the HWE wheel barrel. This whole wheel will be primed and chromed using the Molotow refil through the airbrush.
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Tyres onto the rims, I will end up repainting the gold centers and chroming the outer rings on both the front and the rear wheels before these will be finished
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Super deep dish like the real car
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On the car, and look pretty good, but need to be re chromed before I get the full effect of the newly build rear wheels. That's all I have time for today, so more to come. Thanks for looking. Cheers
Posted Image

#22 ONLINE   preisman

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Posted 16 May 2020 - 11:04 PM

How much of this custom is going to be original model vs all the custom work?

#23 ONLINE   BaseGTR

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Posted 16 May 2020 - 11:11 PM

Really nice work on those wheels Rob, looking forward to seeing them painted.

Base
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#24 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 17 May 2020 - 01:19 AM

View Postpreisman, on 16 May 2020 - 11:04 PM, said:

How much of this custom is going to be original model vs all the custom work?
Well that's about it for the modifications, so still alot of original model left.

View PostBaseGTR, on 16 May 2020 - 11:11 PM, said:

Really nice work on those wheels Rob, looking forward to seeing them painted.
Cheers Base, me too, hopefully the look seemless once painted

#25 OFFLINE   ibj40

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Posted 17 May 2020 - 08:37 AM

View PostBaseGTR, on 16 May 2020 - 11:11 PM, said:

Really nice work on those wheels Rob, looking forward to seeing them painted.

Ditto!



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