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JGTC Lamborghini Countach RAIN-X / Art Sports racecar


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#1 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 30 August 2020 - 01:19 AM

I have been chomping at the bit to build this model and had planned this many months ago, but because the donor model took 4 months to arrive, that delayed the start of this custom model build.

This is the Lamborghini Countach with the RAIN-X and Art Sports livery that was entered into the JGTC championship in Japan, after a wrecked Countach that was planned to be turned into a racecar fell through, Art Sports provided a 25th Anniversary Countach that was then turned into a racecar for the series as the JGTC was very keen to have a Lamborghini entered in the series.

It had some changes to the body and aero and ran on 18" Work Equip rims and had a power bump up too, but the details are very thin on this real car. Race car cockpit and a great livery make this a very unique model that I wanted to build and complete my Lamborghini Countach collection. To my knowledge this car was only ever made in 1/43 scale, so again this will be very unique as a fully opening 1/18 scale model.

Stock AUTOart Lamborghini Countach 25th Anniversary

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I ordered these 18" deep dish barrels from Uli Nowak and the slick tyres are out of the parts box, I think they are Legende-miniatures. I had Eddy @ MIY minimodels print me up the Work Equip centers, but he cannot ship them to Australia at the moment due to shipping restrictions in his country, so hopefully I will get them before the build finishes
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And one of the main deciding factors for starting this build is that the decal sheet was available from ABC shop on eBay, very comprehensive decals to match the real car. Awesome!
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As always, model completely disassembled, and boy are there a lot of parts in this particular model. And I have not even broken down the front boot, interior or engine compartment
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I need some more parts boxes, LOL. Too many models broken down at the moment.
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Quite good detail in the front section of this model. The racecar has a hood scoop and flat radiator so some of this will go.
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Interior is a bit plain, but this will be stripped, race seat fitted including a full roll cage and other bits and pieces
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And the engine is very good on this model. I have a pic of the real car's engine and I really don't need to do anything to this.
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Today I stripped all the paint of the metal body and parts
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Most of the mods for the body on this custom are all on the plastic parts. Vent reshaping and rear tail light panel delete. So the next step will be starting on the body mods. There is not a huge amount of change, but I am sure all these little mods will add up and take some time. After having a couple of weeks break from building models, I am very keen to get deep into this one. More to come. Cheers
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#2 OFFLINE   spikyone

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Posted 30 August 2020 - 03:01 AM

Oh yeah! This is going to be epic, my mouth is watering already!

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Collection thread (to be updated)


#3 OFFLINE   RSIevolution

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Posted 30 August 2020 - 07:11 AM

Oh my god! You 're doing a project with an AUTOart Countach? I wish i could find one in a good price! This is going to be gooood!!!
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#4 OFFLINE   MerkurKing16

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Posted 30 August 2020 - 08:02 AM

Good luck, Iíll be following this closely.

Edited by MerkurKing16, 30 August 2020 - 08:02 AM.


#5 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 31 August 2020 - 11:25 PM

View Postspikyone, on 30 August 2020 - 03:01 AM, said:

Oh yeah! This is going to be epic, my mouth is watering already!
Cheers spiky, I will do my best to make this epic

View PostRSIevolution, on 30 August 2020 - 07:11 AM, said:

Oh my god! You 're doing a project with an AUTOart Countach? I wish i could find one in a good price! This is going to be gooood!!!
Cheers mate, this one had rash, but you are right, places like ebay these models are still expensive

View PostMerkurKing16, on 30 August 2020 - 08:02 AM, said:

Good luck, I'll be following this closely.
Thanks MerkurKing16

#6 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 31 August 2020 - 11:45 PM

UPDATE 1/09/2020

Day off work today so made a start on the body mods. First starting with an easy one. The side 1/4 windows are deleted and this is a flat panel with a race fuel filler instead. So I just used some 0.5mm styrene sheet cut to fit the opening.
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I then measured out the centers of the fuel fillers, I had 2 of these in the parts box, they are from legende Miniatures
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I then cut out all the ribs on the side scoops and filed the openings nice and flush
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This is how they fit back into the body. I am going to cut out as much diecast as I can under these scoops as it will be very visible through the slats what's underneath
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I have to keep a small section where a screw lug is underneath, but all the rest that is marked out and hashed will be removed
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Front opening slats made out of 0.5mm styrene sheet and glued in place to match the pics I have.
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Sitting back on the body, a little filling to do and final sanding on the edges
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And then all the top vent slats built again out of 0.5mm styrene sheet also. This is very time consuming work to make all the louvers. A couple of hours work here.
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Back onto the body for a test fit
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This is a cool Countach to model. I am enjoying myself on this one.
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Filled the wing holes and also the molded in Lamborghini indentation in the deck lid also
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I then cut out the back of the holes where the rear fog lights sat. These are open vents on the real car
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Number plate lights filed off the top of the bumper
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Now this is one of the trickiest body mods, the real car has the rear light surround deleted and since this is one piece with the under valance, this was going to be difficult to cut to shape
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I just cut away all the top section, then cut the final edges with the xacto knife, then sanded to final shape as this forms the bottom edge of the flat tail light center panel
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I then screwed the rear bumper to the remains of the rear valance and taped it in place onto the main body
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This whole rear bumper assembly will have to be glued in place after painting as the original screw mounts were in the rear light panel.
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Several goes to make a new flat styrene sheet rear panel after first making a masking tape template
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Sitting in place, a little filling will be required
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Stock tail lights removed from the rear panel and these will just proud mount onto this new panel.
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I then scaled out the initial cuts for the front hood vent
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I then cut out the diecast with the dremel and cleaned up the cut with a file. Next I will start to build the sides and back curve of the scoop
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That is around 8 hours work today, a pretty good start on the body mods, so pretty happy with the progress so far. There is still alot of fine tuning to do on all the work today, but I am really into this Countach so finding this custom lots of fun. More to come. Cheers
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#7 OFFLINE   Craig

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Posted 01 September 2020 - 08:23 AM

This is fantastic!! Amazingly a Countach is one model I don't have! I'll have to get one quick mate before you mod them all up :nice:

F**k you Photobucket.



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#8 OFFLINE   preisman

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Posted 01 September 2020 - 07:53 PM

You are going nuts with these builds. Truly next level stuff.

#9 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 02 September 2020 - 01:17 AM

View PostCraig, on 01 September 2020 - 08:23 AM, said:

This is fantastic!! Amazingly a Countach is one model I don't have! I'll have to get one quick mate before you mod them all up :nice:
Cheers Craig, I can't believe with the amount of models you have, you don't have a Countach. You have to rectify that mate.

View Postpreisman, on 01 September 2020 - 07:53 PM, said:

You are going nuts with these builds. Truly next level stuff.
Cheers Jon, pushing the boundaries LOL

#10 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 02 September 2020 - 01:33 AM

UPDATE 2/09/2020

Back onto this build today starting with the front hood, but before I build the hood scoop, I need to size up the front cargo trim. First I removed all the pieces to see what I have to work with
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Back under the body and this round spare wheel hump has to go.
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This hump will be in the way as it is directly under the hood opening
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Also these molded plastic sides were removed from the tub as they will foul the sides of the hood scoop as well
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I made duplicate side panels out of 1mm styrene sheet
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Hump cut out with the Dremel
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New styrene sheet panels glued into the diecast front tub
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And then a made a new floor panel out of 0.5mm sheet styrene to cover the hump hole
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Glued in place
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Test fit back under the body. so far so good
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I then used 0.5mm styrene sheet to make the front and sides of the scoop
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I then heated some 0.5mm styrene sheet and bent it around a marker barrel and then glued it into the hood
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I then trimmed out the back curves of the sides to match the arch of the back curved panel
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Test fitted back into the body
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Still have to trim the bottom edge angle
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I then added some Tamiya filler to the edges of the scoop. This will have a slight round transition
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Test fit again
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I test fit the front area accessories to see that the hood will clear these
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Hood back in place and it clears those bits. Yeah
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I then glued the battery and brake booster in place for good
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I then painted the whole new panels in matt black and then glued the lower bits in place
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More to come. Cheers

#11 OFFLINE   Craig

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Posted 02 September 2020 - 05:19 AM

Nice progress!! :yahoo:
Yeah I'll get round to getting one mate :smile:

F**k you Photobucket.



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#12 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 02 September 2020 - 11:15 PM

UPDATE 3/09/2020

Today I am going to glue the headlight flaps in place as the pop ups are not used on this Countach. The are the diecast head light lids with the lamp assemblies removed
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I then glued some styrene tabs on the underside of the head light openings
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I then glued the diecast flaps in place
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This shows the underside what I did to space them correctly
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I then cut the lower section of the front bumper
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I then filed the sides of the stock bumper so the new styrene sides end up nearly flush with the diecast body above
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I then worked out the sizes of the sides and made a pair
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Sides glued on and now time to make the base of the new front spoiler. Again using 0.5mm sheet styrene
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Cut to size just scaling off pictures with the protruding front lip
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Next to build up the front edge, I used a piece of 1mm styrene sheet and glued that to the larger piece
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Next I marked out the front air scoop opening and made the vertical fins and also made the side fins to and glued them in place
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I then made the spot light front faces and bent the sides of the styrene to form the side air ducts. This is just from 0.5mm styrene sheet also as it is easy to bend and hold it's shape
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I then glued this part into the sides that are already attached to the sides of the stock bumper
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I found these GT Spirit Countach driving lights in the parts box so these will sit on the faces as shown
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I also cut out the underside of the splitter so I can still screw this onto the diecast body using the factory screw holes
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This is how it looks back on the body. Although this took a few hours to build, it is a very straight part on the real car, so was easier to build than something completely curved. Hood in place too for perspective
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Next step was to add the tamiya putty to fill all the gaps and also build up the sides of the front flare transitions into the new front spoiler.
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I then cut all the diecast out of the body that is under the side scoops, just leaving a strip of diecast in the rear openings, as the rear engine assembly screws into this and I did not want to delete these.
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Now with the side scoops sitting in place, you can now clearly see through the vents and will be able to see the radiators and air boxes. Cool
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Just another look at most of the body mods done. Still a lot more fine tuning to do, but the progress is very good so far. More to come. Thanks for looking. Cheers
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Edited by ROBSMC, 03 September 2020 - 12:22 AM.


#13 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 04 September 2020 - 01:29 AM

UPDATE 4/09/2020

Time for some sanding and priming today starting with the front hood. I sanded all the putty front and back
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And then some Tamiya grey primer to check the progress. This came out well and this front hood is ready for 2K primer
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I then sanded the rear boot lid and also the side louvered vents
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And then primer
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More sanding tomorrow and keep moving forward. More to come. Thanks for lookin. Cheers

#14 OFFLINE   Sebastian

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Posted 04 September 2020 - 02:40 AM

Well... what to say... just another masterpiece coming down the road. Thanks for sharing your progress again. Very inspiring!

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#15 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 08 September 2020 - 03:45 AM

Thanks Seb,

UPDATE 8/09/2020

After I cut out the diecast under the side scoops, I thought I beeter take a look with the engine assembly under the body, just to check If I need to order any parts. The radiators are quite clearly seen now, so I will need to made a face for them as they have none right now. Behind the radiators is the airboxes, and although these are partly obscured by the diecast support, I will still be able to form the rest of the airboxes out os some plastic sheet
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And when I had a look at the model partly assembled, I noticed that the front edge of the front flare is not the standard 25th Anniversary. It has been modified where it meets the new front spoiler, reduced in size and thickness. So now I need to make some changes in the diecast.
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So I filed the front of the flare to match the real car first
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You can see here where the diecast is shiny, this is what I filed away flat to the body
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I then had to slowly file away the factory edge in the middle of the flare to be more flowing while reducing to the bottom. I then repeat this on the other side to match
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I then added some putty to fill the side indicator hole, and to smooth up the file marks to the edge of the flare. That's it for today, more to come. Thanks for looking. Cheers
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#16 OFFLINE   RSIevolution

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Posted 08 September 2020 - 04:45 AM

Very nice. Very good body work. It is getting in shape! Can't wait for the color application!
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#17 OFFLINE   msousa71

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Posted 08 September 2020 - 05:42 AM

Rob how come you spray the Tamiya primer first and then the 2k primer, arent you afraid to have some sort of paint reaction?

#18 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 08 September 2020 - 05:52 AM

View PostRSIevolution, on 08 September 2020 - 04:45 AM, said:

Very nice. Very good body work. It is getting in shape! Can't wait for the color application!
Thanks mate, I too am looking forward to spraying it yellow and then adding all the decals.

View Postmsousa71, on 08 September 2020 - 05:42 AM, said:

Rob how come you spray the Tamiya primer first and then the 2k primer, arent you afraid to have some sort of paint reaction?
I only use the Tamiya primer as a guide to check that I have sanded and filled all the custom areas. When it is raw metal and white filler, it is hard to see any faults. So I just spray a light coat of Tamiya grey primer over it to show any defects. When it is time to 2K prime all the body parts, most of the Tamiya primer gets sanded off. BUT, you can 2K prime over the top of Tamiya primer. I have never had a reaction.

#19 OFFLINE   MerkurKing16

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Posted 08 September 2020 - 08:11 AM

Wow Rob, you work quickly. Amazing progress.

#20 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 04:58 AM

View PostMerkurKing16, on 08 September 2020 - 08:11 AM, said:

Wow Rob, you work quickly. Amazing progress.
Plenty of time off work to work on these models.

#21 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 05:20 AM

UPDATE 9/09/2020

Sanded the putty that I applied yesterday to the side of the front of the body and then sanded the bottom part of the flare that is part of the new front spoiler. Nearly there.
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I then drilled some corner holes and cut out the spot light openings
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I then filed the hole opening until the spot lights fit
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A bit of grey primer to check the progress, just a minor fill to do
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I then glued in the fuel filler surrounds that replace the 1/4 windows, and applied some primer
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And painted the fuel filler pieces in Tamiya chrome silver
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I then super glued the rear under valance to the diecast body
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Added some 0.5mm styrene spacers as the diecast on both sides behind the tail lights was deeper, and then I glued the boot lid in place as this will not open due to the wing and is a fixed part on the real car as far as I can see
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It was at this stage that I forgot to cut the rear vent opening in the new center panel, so I marked it out and cut it out.
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Which also meant that I forgot to cut out the diecast in the back of the model too before I super glued the valance on. DOH! So I marked out the hole location first
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And used the smallest diameter cutting wheel and cut out the diecast from the back to avoid cuts in the face. Luckily only just touched the plastic part on the inside, but nothing that a bit of filler won't fix
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I then glued in my new styrene sheet center panel with superglue
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Good thing with having that rear vent hole is that you should be able to see the engine
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Then out with the Tamiya putty again to fill all the small gaps around the edge of the styrene
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Next I marked out the line for the rear wing vertical end plates
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I then made the end plates out of 0.5mm styrene sheet
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I then glued those to the body with superglue
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Next I had to make the wing leg base plates which have 4 holes drilled in each, so I marked out the size of the pieces and the spacings for the holes. I then used a nail to piece the center of each drill mark
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I then used my little Tamiya battery operated drill (great tool) to drill all the holes with a 1.5mm drill bit
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I then cut them to size with the xacto knife
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And then glued them to the side of the wing ends
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I then used a old resin wing blade and cut it into pieces to form the 2 element rear wing held together with some 0.5mm styrene flat pieces like the real car
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This is just sitting in place as I want to paint this black separately from the yellow body, then I can glue it in place.
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That's about another 7 hours on the model today, my eyes are done, but overall the body mods are nearly done. I still have to do all the tiny vent holes in the rear engine lid which I left to last as I still have not worked out the best way to do them.
Her's the model as it stands tonight. Looking forward to painting and applying all the decals to the model. More to come. Thanks for looking. Cheers
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#22 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 11 September 2020 - 08:03 PM

UPDATE 12/09/2020

Well I was leaving this piece till last as it was going to be quite a challenge. The rear engine lid has many extra vent holes cut into it, so I first marked out all the extra holes with black marker and colored them in so it was easier to stay withing in the lines.
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I then started by drilling a pilot mark in all the corners of each cut out with my Tamiya battery drill just to mark the holes as this little drill does not have the grunt to drill all these holes all the way through the diecast. I will use my work Makita drill to drill all the holes all the way through
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Holes drilled through
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I then used my smallest cutting disc on the dremel and joined the dots!
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And then around 3 hours of filing with the jewelers files to open and straighten all the cutouts. Not perfect and the holes all ended up a little bigger than the originals, but considering how small the holes are and filing thick diecast, this is the best I could do. A little filling required in some spots.
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Tamiya filler added to the required spots
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Next is the door pillars, since this race car has fixed lexan windows, there needs to be the vertical piece as per the stock windows
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I used some 3mm x 2mm styrene rectangle rod and glued them in with super glue
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Sanded all the filler up around the new rear center panel
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I also realised looking at the pics of the real car that the corners on the stock windows had to be added to the doors as they are solid pieces on the racecar
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Glued onto the doors
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Just when I thought the fabrication was done, I still needed to make the side mirrors. So I had these 2 sets of Ferrari F430 GT mirrors, so I will use all 4 stalks and 2 of the mirror housings to make the new mirrors
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Cut the stalks off the mirrors
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I then cut and glued the pair of stalks together in a 'A' shape using a piece of 0.5mm styrene sheet as a base. The base was way oversized and then trimmed down to size after the stalks had glued well. This was so fiddly and took several goes to get them glued. I then cut the angle on the top of the 'A' to meet the angle of the mirror housing and then glued them together. They are as close as I can get to the real mirrors on the racecar as 3D printed mirrors are out of the question since shipping to Australia is still not available. But these will work.
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And I also needed to make some braces so that when the hood sat back into the model, it sat in the right place as the hinges had been cut off. Styrene plate glued to the underside inner lip of the front bumper
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And then a strip of styrene glued to the underside of the hood and this will sit up against the bumper strip thus lining it up in the right spot
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Like so
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I then gave all the parts and filler touch ups a final sand and then sprayed some Tamiya grey primer on all the body and parts as this is the final check to make sure I have filled all the little gaps. Overall most parts are fine but just a couple more spots to fill and sand, then I can 2K prime this and start the painting process. It has taken some time to do all these body mods, but glad it's done. Looking forward to paint
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And I thought I would check the stance, these are 18"wheel barrels from Uli Nowak with Legende-Miniatures slick tyres, and the Work Equip centers are 3D printed by [email protected], but he still can't ship them to me. But hopefully he can before the build is complete. That's it for now, more to come. Thanks for looking. Cheers
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#23 OFFLINE   StratosWRC

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Posted 11 September 2020 - 08:42 PM

It really looks nice, the amount of body work in this thing is insane and a lot of it looks finicky.
I mod stuff

Wes

#24 OFFLINE   vulpex

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Posted 12 September 2020 - 02:56 AM

Amazing progress here - can’t wait to see the yellow paint on it!!! :occasion14:
I can hardly imagine how much of skills and craftsmanship goes into this.
But you make this look so straight forward and easy... :adore: :adore: :adore:

#25 OFFLINE   ROBSMC

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Posted 12 September 2020 - 04:23 AM

View PostStratosWRC, on 11 September 2020 - 08:42 PM, said:

It really looks nice, the amount of body work in this thing is insane and a lot of it looks finicky.
Thanks Wes, yeah more bodywork than I first thought, but it will be worth it in the end. I could not do without my magnifier, it has helped me so much since I got it.

View Postvulpex, on 12 September 2020 - 02:56 AM, said:

Amazing progress here - can’t wait to see the yellow paint on it!!! :occasion14:
I can hardly imagine how much of skills and craftsmanship goes into this.
But you make this look so straight forward and easy... :adore: :adore: :adore:
Thanks Dirk, plenty of time of work, so I have been putting hours in every day on this one.



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