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HOW TO: Lower suspension on Kyosho BMW M5 E60 1:18


19 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   smgking

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Posted 23 March 2010 - 09:02 AM

A member on this forum told me he likes the lowered suspention on my M5 but is afraid to do it himself too. Since I have an M5 already apart, I will make a step by step tutorial on how to lower your M5. It is a simple mod, which takes you 20 minutes to do it. So lets begin.

TAKING THE CAR APART:

You must first remove all 4 wheels. You simply pull them off, but be gentle! I suggest you first pull them off for about 2mm and than use a door opening tool or something similar, to push the brake disc back. This is how you prevent brake disc staying attached on the wheel and braking the caliper. It is also recommended, that you spin the wheel backward and forward when pulling it off. But you have nothing to worry here, since the wheel arches are metal, you will not break them. Worst case scenario is breaking the caliper.

Than you must remove the 4 screws which hold the undercarriage and body together (red arrows)
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Remove the body, turn the undercarriage around and you should get this:
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FRONT SUSPENTION LOWERING:

First, you must remove the plastic part, which is held by 1 screw. This part has a function of connection steering wheel and the steering mechanism.
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Than you will see 4 screws which also need to be removed. When you remove them, you must use something to push out the 2 melted plastic pins (green arrows)
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Note that there are 2 types of screws here. If you forged which goes where, just use this and the previous picture.
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When all 4 screws and both pins are removed, you get this:
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Than you must remove the metal part (red arrow)
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Here you can already see the springs, which we are removing (red arrows).
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Wheen the springs are removed, it looks something like this:
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Than you turn the undercarriage around to make an assembly easier.
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First you put back a metal part.
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And than the rest of the front:
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Screw back the screws and watch which screws go where! (Look up if you forgot)
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Screw back the steering mechanism part and you are done.
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REAR SUSPENTION LOWERING:

For the rear suspention lowering, you must first remove 3 thing - exhaust (green arrows), silver part of undercarriage (blue arrows) and black metal axle (red arrows).
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For removing exhaust, you must remove 8 melted plastic pins (green arrows), for the silver part you must remove 4 melted plastic pins (blue arrows) and for black metal axle you must unscrew 2 screw (red arrows).
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Since I already lowered the suspention I didnt want to take this pins apart again, but when you remove all, you simply remove the springs, which can be found (and seen) on a part that I circled with red on the picture below (my spring is already removed).
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When removed, you put everything back, glue or melt pins back and screw both screw and reassemble the car. That is it.

COMPARATION OF LOWERED AND STOCK CAR (Silverstone II lowered, Sepang Bronze stock):

Will post that later, I am late for school :)


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#2 OFFLINE   initiald

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Posted 23 March 2010 - 02:12 PM

smgking, thanks for posting this.   :lamende: This is the type of step by step guide that I'm looking for. Simple and effective pics.  https://www.diecastxchange.com/forum1/public/style_emoticons/default/rock.gif

#3 OFFLINE   smgking

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Posted 23 March 2010 - 03:53 PM

No problem, here are comparasion pictures:

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#4 OFFLINE   raidou

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Posted 23 March 2010 - 05:04 PM

Are you interested into lowering the front suspension within a few seconds? Without taking the model apart?
Ok, watch this:

I just removed the wheel to show it better. It's not even necessary for the following steps!!

Just squeeze the supsension to get a gap between the wheel mounting and the lower wishbone:

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In this gap you put a little spacer:

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This can be a self-made part like this:

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or you use one or more of these E-rings/shaft locking clips (used on RC-cars i.e.), depending on how much you want to lower it:

Posted Image



That's it! Quick, easy, no need to unscrew or remove anything!  https://www.diecastxchange.com/forum1/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif

For the rear axle you don't need to remove the exhausts. Take the model apart as shown above.
Then squeeze the suspension of the rear axle and the red marked screws on inner side of the wheel arches will lift up. Put those spacers in the gap there as well - and done!

Edited by raidou, 23 March 2010 - 05:10 PM.


#5 OFFLINE   Pegasus Seiya

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Posted 23 March 2010 - 05:46 PM

thank you both for the tutorials! i'm going with raidou's tho... my head hurts less   :lamende:
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#6 OFFLINE   initiald

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Posted 23 March 2010 - 07:10 PM

I agree that Raidou's method is simple (which he also kindly showed me back then) but it is only good if you want to lower the ride height. I like that smgking detailed steps on how to access the chassis because you never know what you want to do to the interior. Perhaps modding and swapping interiors, these steps come in handy.

Bravo both.   :lamende:

#7 OFFLINE   RSIevolution

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Posted 23 March 2010 - 07:58 PM

Well Done both smgking and raidou.. To tell you the truth, i used both of ways to low my M3 E92 Kyosho.. smgking way for rear suspension and raidou for the front..

I am very glad that we can share such info for tuning and customising. It is very helpfull for all of us!!! Thanks to diecastXchange and all members!!!Posted Image
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#8 OFFLINE   winstoncds

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Posted 23 March 2010 - 08:25 PM

Welldone smgkng and raidou. That is a real thorough walk through smgkng. Appreciate the time and effort you guys put into the tutorials. I got to appreciate how much effort Kyosho puts into making the suspension look as realistic as it looks.

Edited by winstoncds, 23 March 2010 - 08:26 PM.

I know Kung-fu
and 50 other such dangerous words.

#9 OFFLINE   initiald

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Posted 23 March 2010 - 09:17 PM

View Postwinstoncds, on 23 March 2010 - 08:25 PM, said:

Welldone smgkng and raidou. That is a real thorough walk through smgkng. Appreciate the time and effort you guys put into the tutorials. I got to appreciate how much effort Kyosho puts into making the suspension look as realistic as it looks.

That's correct. On Autoart models, you only get working suspension on their "high end" high bucks Signature series.   :lamende:

#10 OFFLINE   agvancouver

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Posted 17 July 2011 - 06:14 AM

i'll take raidou's easy route. but as for complete disassembly, are the M5's screw locations on the undersurface similar,
if not the same as the ones on a 3 series kyosho?
View my photos!
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#11 OFFLINE   R33JFMTurbo

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 04:37 AM

i have a BMW 330i Kyosho. And wanting to put some New rims... Can u help me how to actually pull them off? I thought there's Screws in the central cap if the rims. and ur supposed to pry them off??

#12 OFFLINE   Gavin

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 09:39 AM

fairly sure they just pull off...just be careful of the brake rotor & caliper.

There are the instructions I received from member BMW Fan last year (this was for Kyosho's 135i, but should be the same for the E90 330i).

Quote

The wheels are interchangeable through most of the Kyosho BMWs. I know for a fact that these wheels will fit on the 135i, because Raidou has done it before. To change them, sit in a chair with the model in your lap. Have the model upside down, and place two fingers behind the wheel. Pull outwards and the wheels should come off. Be mindful of the brake disks. If you pull too hard, you will pull the brake calipers off.

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#13 OFFLINE   littlerockshhd

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Posted 17 August 2015 - 07:53 AM

Those just pull off. No screw under the center cap.

#14 OFFLINE   R33JFMTurbo

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Posted 08 September 2015 - 06:32 PM

You make it simple again ... so like litterally pull off crazy lmfa0?? i broke my Maisto trying to swap rims from tht.

#15 OFFLINE   technica

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Posted 08 September 2015 - 06:40 PM

There are different ways each manufacturers mount their wheels. That said, to remove Maisto wheels is different from removing wheels from a Kyosho (or other brands).

Check out my custom works at Technica's Portfolio.
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#16 OFFLINE   JAMAA

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Posted 22 June 2020 - 08:44 AM

Hello! Can you re-upload the photos? We are unable to see them. I have a 545i and am interested in lowering it. Thanks!

#17 OFFLINE   StratosWRC

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Posted 22 June 2020 - 08:59 AM

View PostJAMAA, on 22 June 2020 - 08:44 AM, said:

Hello! Can you re-upload the photos? We are unable to see them. I have a 545i and am interested in lowering it. Thanks!

the last time this user was active was 2012, so that's not gonna happen probably.
I mod stuff

Wes

#18 OFFLINE   JAMAA

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Posted 22 June 2020 - 10:02 AM

View Postraidou, on 23 March 2010 - 05:04 PM, said:

Are you interested into lowering the front suspension within a few seconds? Without taking the model apart?
Ok, watch this:

I just removed the wheel to show it better. It's not even necessary for the following steps!!

Just squeeze the supsension to get a gap between the wheel mounting and the lower wishbone:

Posted Image



In this gap you put a little spacer:

Posted Image




This can be a self-made part like this:

Posted Image




or you use one or more of these E-rings/shaft locking clips (used on RC-cars i.e.), depending on how much you want to lower it:

Posted Image



That's it! Quick, easy, no need to unscrew or remove anything!  Posted Image

For the rear axle you don't need to remove the exhausts. Take the model apart as shown above.
Then squeeze the suspension of the rear axle and the red marked screws on inner side of the wheel arches will lift up. Put those spacers in the gap there as well - and done!

What did you use to make the spacer? I cannot see your pictures, can you re-load them? Thanks!

#19 OFFLINE   TK-Diecast

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Posted 22 June 2020 - 10:58 AM

View PostStratosWRC, on 22 June 2020 - 08:59 AM, said:


the last time this user was active was 2012, so that's not gonna happen probably.

that and it is a 10 year old thread.. :D

#20 OFFLINE   JAMAA

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Posted 22 June 2020 - 12:23 PM

View PostStratosWRC, on 22 June 2020 - 08:59 AM, said:

View PostJAMAA, on 22 June 2020 - 08:44 AM, said:

Hello! Can you re-upload the photos? We are unable to see them. I have a 545i and am interested in lowering it. Thanks!

the last time this user was active was 2012, so that's not gonna happen probably.

Sounds like I'll be on my own - thanks for the heads up



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