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How do you make tires?


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#1 OFFLINE   smgking

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Posted 22 May 2010 - 08:34 AM

I would like to start making some resin wheels, but I dont know how to make tires for diecasts. If anyone has any link or tutorial, please share it.


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#2 OFFLINE   Seby123

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Posted 23 May 2010 - 06:08 AM

im guessing you make them just like you make resin wheels...make a mold etc.

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#3 OFFLINE   smgking

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Posted 23 May 2010 - 06:41 AM

View PostSeby123, on 23 May 2010 - 06:08 AM, said:

im guessing you make them just like you make resin wheels...make a mold etc.

Ok I know I have to make a mold. But which material do I need? Resin is not apropriate.


#4 OFFLINE   mairandeddy

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Posted 23 May 2010 - 08:02 AM

View Postsmgking, on 23 May 2010 - 06:41 AM, said:

Ok I know I have to make a mold. But which material do I need? Resin is not apropriate.

Do you mean 'rubberised' then??  

Could you use black silicone??  I haven't got a clue really. sorry  :occasion14:

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#5 OFFLINE   smgking

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Posted 23 May 2010 - 08:11 AM

View Postmairandeddy, on 23 May 2010 - 08:02 AM, said:

Do you mean 'rubberised' then??

Could you use black silicone?? I haven't got a clue really. sorry  :occasion14:

We misunderstood. I know which material I need to make molds. What I am asking is what material should than I put into the molds in order to make tires out of it. What kind of rubber?


#6 OFFLINE   mairandeddy

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Posted 23 May 2010 - 08:22 AM

View Postsmgking, on 23 May 2010 - 08:11 AM, said:

We misunderstood. I know which material I need to make molds. What I am asking is what material should than I put into the molds in order to make tires out of it. What kind of rubber?
Actually smg i did mean for the tyres themselves!! See i really haven't got a clue!

I just googled 'making rubberised model tyres' and found this if it's any use...

http://www.modelsbuz...els-934205.html

This is the linked site....although it is in Portugese there is a 'Translate' button..

http://www.oficinaab...pneus/pneus.asp

any use?

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#7 OFFLINE   RamJet

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 08:23 AM

I'm experimenting with the TCR40 from MicroMark right now, but am having a hard time getting the tires black.
I've made 2 different type molds, a two piece and an open pour. The open mold is easier to completely fill, and it doesn't really have a parting line. I'm still working on it.
I'm also having a hard time getting the rubber to not feel tacky even after it has supposedly cured. I think I need to try another type of tire compound.
I'll post pictures later.

#8 OFFLINE   mark

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 09:32 AM

Corrupted - where you at?    Hopefully he'll chime in here.  He's making rubber tires and has discussed this in the custom wheel thread - somewhere.  Can't find it right now.

I've seen tire/wheel combos cast as one peice resin that actually look very good  - as well as tires and wheels cast separately in resin.  Here's an example I saw on 'the bay"

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#9 OFFLINE   RamJet

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 12:33 PM

I'm looking at trying the Alumilite Flex 60 next. Corrupted, is this one you've tried?

#10 OFFLINE   corrupted

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 04:59 PM

Hey guys. Somehow I totally missed this thread. I use alumilite flex40 for my rear tires(because it's soft). Then I use alumilite flex70 for the front runners( much harder, but still flexible. You need black dye, but only a tiny bit or they will be gooey and not dry. https://www.alumilit...ilite.netĀ Ā go under products and then resins. I put the dye in first and then mix it with the clear until it's totally mixed and then add the other part, and mix good. Maybe a drop or 2 for like 3 oz of mixed resin. If you plan to make tires it's best to have your molds ready because I've wasted more resin than I have used. It may last a week once you open it. The clear part starts to get chunky. If I missed anything let me know.

#11 OFFLINE   RamJet

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 11:26 PM

Thanks! This makes the PM I just sent redundant. Sorry about that. I couldn't find the tint at the site. Do you use the same tint that MicroMark sells?
I bought their TCR-40, and it's just to soft/squishy. I also added a ton of pigment, but the tires are barely gray.
Here's a pic of my progress.
Thanks again for your help.

Attached Files



#12 Guest_mrm_*

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 11:47 PM

RamJet, I had the same issue with Micro Mark stuff. Switch to Alumilite. I am using the flex70 that corrupted is talking about. I have not tried the softer stuff as the tires I am molding are a lot thinner than his drags.
Fro what I see on the picture you also have a problem with air. When building your silicone mold make a channel that goes next to the tire and then under it. This way you pour the resin from one side which then pushes all the air up until resin shows up over the tire. I 'll make a picture to show you what I mean.

#13 OFFLINE   corrupted

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Posted 26 February 2011 - 09:56 AM

I would switch to alumilite, but remember it goes bad quick. Their dye works great, but only a drop or it will stay gooey or not dry. You can use it in the hard resin also to make colored parts. It takes a lot more dye for the hard resin than in the soft resin. I haven't tried a 2 part mold for tires. Does it work good? Here's how I make my molds for tires. I glue round styrene(2 or 3 pieces) to a tire or resin tire I made. Then I glue the set up down by using the styrene for it to sit on. Then I build the box around it, and pour the silicone in. It's best to do more than one at a time that way you can make a bunch at one time. especially because of the short shelf life of the resin. When it's dry you have to cut between the styrene pegs to get the tire out. The backside of the tire will have bubbles and marks where you cut the resin tabs off from the mold. These also serve as vents and fill holes . When you inject the resin into the mold start at the hole and go around while injecting the resin. The backside of the tires aren't super important as far as look because they don't get seen. I try to make them as good as I can. I will be making a vacuum set up for these soon. It is supposed to help a ton.

#14 OFFLINE   RamJet

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Posted 26 February 2011 - 12:08 PM

Yes, air has been a problem on the two-part mold with the rubber. I first started making metal casts, and for that - probably because of the weight of the liquid metal - this method worked well. I have to pour a new mold anyway, so I'll redesign the spout and venting. Thanks for the help guys!

#15 Guest_mrm_*

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Posted 27 February 2011 - 08:37 PM

Here is a half of a two way mold for you RamJet

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#16 OFFLINE   RamJet

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Posted 28 February 2011 - 07:41 AM

Thanks, MRM, That's how I will make the next one. I just redid a single wheel mold laid out just like this for the resin casting. I made it a single as I need to modify it a little and didn't want to mess-up the original. Once I get the wheel to look correct, I will make four copies and then make a mold like you've shown above.
I certainly appreciate all of the help and good will! I'll post what my results are.

#17 OFFLINE   RamJet

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Posted 13 March 2011 - 12:55 AM

Here's an update on my wheel and tire endevor.

Thank you so much Corrupted! The Alumilite Flex is light years beyond the MicroMark TCR-40. Attached is a picture of what I was able to make with it. The wheel is MicroMark CR-300, which works just fine. The complete tire came out of my one piece mold that has one sidewall exposed. The coloring and hardness are great!

I've also attached a shot of the layout of my 4-tire mold box ala MRM. So far, I haven't been able to get the tire compound to flow all the way through, but I have some ideas for the next mold.

Thanks guys! You are all a great help.

Attached Files


Edited by RamJet, 13 March 2011 - 12:57 AM.


#18 OFFLINE   corrupted

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Posted 13 March 2011 - 10:12 AM

I'm glad the resin worked out for you. I was thinking the same thing about getting the resin all the way through the mold with the 4 tire mold box design. I've have luck with single part molds for my tires. There's always a little issues on the back side, but it's not seen. Once I finish the vacuum chamber I think all the bubbles will be gone and there will only be 2 little tabs on the back side that I have to cut off.



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