Guide how to adjust rims from Uli Nowak - Wheels, Brakes and Stance works - DiecastXchange.com Diecast Cars Forums

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Guide how to adjust rims from Uli Nowak


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#1 OFFLINE   raidou

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Posted 27 February 2011 - 03:14 PM

I'm often asked how to attach new wheels, especially those made by Uli Nowak.
Instead of explaining it again and again via PM I like to give you a little tutorial here.

Removing the original wheels is different at any maker, sometimes even one maker has different systems.
I save myself to go into details here as it is too manifold.
In most cases the wheel mounting is any kind of pin (plastic or metal) where the wheel is stuck on.
Try to retain this!

What you get when you order rims in 17" or larger looks like this:

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There is
• the aluminium barrels
• the resin inlets
• black plastic discs
• and of course the tyres

The plastic disc is the fixing element, it's pressed into the backside of the barrel.
Into this disc you have to drill a hole (diameter is depending on the respective mounting pin).
Since Nowak wheels are not supposed to spin(!) you can lower the car's stance easily by drilling the hole excentric.

Glue the disc onto the mounting pin, then press the barrel on. You can vary the tread width by this.
Then glue a brake disc in (optional part) and press in the painted inlet after all.


The smaller sizes (13"-16") don't have this plastic disc, there are no open barrels but pots with massive aluminium back.
For that you need a metal drill and of course it's not that easy to vary the tread width.

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Many wheels are available in two width and with different depth of rim well. If you are not sure, which wheel size, rim well or width will match best with your model don't hesitate to contact Uli. He's very kind and helpful in all questions! Posted Image

On most wheel sizes Uli offers different tyres: regular profile, lower profile and sometimes super low profile.
Usually the total wheel diameters are specified.
In some cases, especially for youngtimers, even the regular profile seems a bit too low.
There's an easy way to fix that. All you need is some black insulating tape.

The rims come with a flange at the frontside which deters the tyre from slipping off...and hides the real inner diameter.

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Now wrap the barrel with the tape until you almost leveled the inner diameter with the flange but stop before it becomes visible from the front:

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Look what difference this makes to the total size and look of the wheel. On both I used the same tyre (they are very elastic)!

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Hope that helps and wish you good luck on your wheel swap!  :occasion14:

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#2 OFFLINE   J-B

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Posted 27 February 2011 - 03:26 PM

Good overview. Thanks!

#3 Guest_[KRAFTIG]_*

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Posted 27 February 2011 - 03:39 PM

Thank you.

#4 OFFLINE   corrupted

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Posted 27 February 2011 - 04:03 PM

That's a big help. I am kinda bummed that the wheels no longer roll though, but I guess that's how they do it.

#5 OFFLINE   Florin

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Posted 27 February 2011 - 05:15 PM

Nice, thanks!
But...but...but the Chinese labor rates!

#6 OFFLINE   RSIevolution

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Posted 27 February 2011 - 05:42 PM

Very helpful raidou, thanks for the tutorial!!Posted Image
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#7 OFFLINE   Tonz

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Posted 13 March 2011 - 03:56 PM

That is very informative. Thanks for spending the time in sharing with us.

#8 OFFLINE   usmanulamin

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Posted 03 September 2011 - 11:12 AM

thanks for sharing



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