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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Here's my upgraded Bburago Ferrari F40, which I did earlier in the year when the sun was still shining here in the UK and we were regularly seeing temperatures in the mid 20s Celcius (Nice!).

It was bought cheaply on Ebay and was missing the rear springs and ducting to the rear clam. I bought an even cheaper Polistil version to cannibalise some of the parts, namely the springs, ducting, glass for the rear clam and the intake manifold. Although in my opinion the Polistil version is overall the poorest of the low end 1:18 F40 models, it does surpass the others in one or two areas. In particular, the intake manifold whilst not perfect is far superior to the can of worms dumped on top of the Bb and HW's engines. As it turned out, the clam window does not fit so I was only able to use the three of the parts.

This was a complete strip down and repaint, with the rebuild incorporating the Tremonia Transkits 1and 2, plus some scratch built parts as well. TheTT kits are very good and in particular, the dashboard dials are exquisite. It provides two sets each of black dials and white dials so I have some spare for my HW F40 when I get around to upgrading that. Enough bla, bla, here are the photos.

Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Hood


As I wanted to represent a later production model, I filled in the 5th side grill in the rear clam and opened up the other 4.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Hood


Unfortunately, the Bb model does not have the imprinted F40 logo on the left side of the rear wing support, but I glued it in place and filled the joints to give a continuous smooth effect as per the prototype. The holes for the 3 screws retaining the wing were also added to each top edge. I resprayed the wheels centres with PlastiKote aluminium from a rattle can and with Molotow Chrome through the airbrush for the rims. Etched locking clip from the TT kit to the wheel nuts and resin cast air valves.
Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive tail & brake light


This image better shos off the opened up side grills along with clear insert to the centre of the orange tail light.
Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Hood Bumper Automotive design


Front wing indicators added from clear orange painted "jewels" from Hobbycraft. The Bb moulded locking catches were binned and the holes filled before painting. Replacements are cut from PVC tape with the key holes from Molotow chrome. The wing mirrors are spares from a Bb F50, modified to replace the crappy plastic ones fixed to the window frame. The recessed channels in the sills were also filled before repainting.
Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Hood


Still at the front end, the grills for the edges of the front clam were scratch built from brass strip and the lower grills are PE parts from the TT kit.
Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Automotive lighting



Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Automotive lighting


Wheel Tire Automotive parking light Vehicle Automotive lighting


I don't recall seeing any images of the storage area in the front with a spare wheel so I wanted to represent this area better. Using only the rear part of the moulded storage part, I cut off the front and made a replacement from brass sheet for the wrap around part and base. The other bits were made from plasticard with some silone tube opened up and glued to the rim for the seal. I wanted to add the radiator and fans, so the storage area had to be made smaller so the spare front wheel will not fit, not that I want to add it. Scratch built radiator, fans and piping.
Tire Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Light


Kevlar decals and modified Bb inner parts in the wheel arches.
Vehicle Wheel Tire Automotive tire Toy


And a view from t'other side. I was quite happy with the moulded windscreen wiper so I didn't use the etched parts from the TT kit.
Motor vehicle Hood Blue Automotive lighting Automotive design


Here's a view inside the cockpit. Fully kevlar decalled and extensive use of PE parts from the TT kit. Note the ignition key and phob! I used some cabon fibre sticker for the doors but I will replace that some time as it's not up to scratch.
Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Steering part Steering wheel


As I said , the dials are exquisite. I'll post some front on views of those later with the body off.
Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Steering wheel Automotive mirror


Missing ducting under the bonnet to feed air to the cockpit added along with Kevkar decals.
Motor vehicle Vehicle Steering part Steering wheel Automotive design


Here you can see the modified ducting from the Polistil model. The crack in the glass was me being a clumsy git when re-fitting it.
Automotive parking light Automotive lighting Hood Automotive design Motor vehicle


Wood Fender Automotive exterior Bumper Grass


Here you can see the screw holes for the wing, left hand fuel filler lid and cracked window.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Hood


The modified engine and bay. Air ducts either side of the cockpit from flattened brass tube, support rods from copper wire plus various PE parts from the TT kit. Inner wheel arches from brass sheet. The base wasn't screwed in when I took this image so hence the slight gap between the arch and riveted part. Heat shielding added under the exhaust and to the firewall although the latter is not visible. Intake manifold from the Polistil model.
Tire Car Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle


I dumped the hinged strut for supporting the raised clam as it tends to bend and is way too thick. The fuel filler caps from the TT kit required quite a bit of fettling of the diecast metal so they would fit flush. Springs are from the polistil model.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Hood


The TT replacement rear grill.
Automotive tail & brake light Vehicle Grille Automotive parking light Hood


More to follow.
Cheers,
Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here's a better view of the dashboard with the body off.
Material property Camera Point-and-shoot camera Digital camera Machine


And the seats and belts. I covered the diamond pattern on the seats with a thin sheet of plasticard before painting, as the later production models didn't have it. The diagonal rods behind the seats are the bracing struts for the roll over bar.
Product Automotive design Chair Red Human leg


The ducting fron the naca vents on the bonnet which feed air to the cab are not represented on the Bb model although they are on the HW. The wheel arches are much modified from the originals which are totally incorrect as they come.
Green Light Black Red Wood


These are the side ducts soldered up from brass strip. Difficult to describe but I made a simple jig in a block of wood to hold the over long slats so that the surround could be positioned and soldered. Even then it was very difficult to keep them straight, but I think they pass muster when in place and painted. Once soldered the excess length of the slats were cut off with a piercing saw and tidied up with files.
Rectangle Line Material property Font Pattern


This is the Polistil inlet manifold after modifying and priming . Next to it, the scratch built radiator and fans. Plasticard base with PE mesh with the fans soldered up from brass and copper.
Wood Rectangle Pattern Font Creative arts


And painted. I gave a further coat of black before fitting.
Wood Pattern Metal Circle Symmetry


Here's the completed engine before installation. Much modified with the addition of the TT kit PE parts along with the plug leads.The little boxes mounted on the intake manifold are the coils which were made from plasticard and brass. I think the PE bolts on the cylinder head cover are from a fret I have from Autograph models but I'm not sure. The discs are from the TT kit.
Motor vehicle Circuit component Electronic component Engineering Wheel


There are a few small parts left from the TT kit that I may fit later, including the windscreen wiper and a spoiler for the bottom edge of the front clam. I fitted the PE side window frames from the TT kit but could not get a satisfactory result adding the glazing, so for now I've left it out. Overall, of the three low end models of the F40 in 1:18, I think the HW version is the best starting point for a conversion such as this and I have one in the drawer to start some time. The Polistil model is in my opinion, the worst of the three, with no opening front clam, riveted construction in places and poor wheels. The pop up headlights are poorly done and don't bring much to the party, but the intake manifold and rear springs are OK. However, that's just my opinion and each to their own.

Cheers,
Peter
 

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Very nice work. Really like the multiple changes you made to this Bburago F40.

The HW F40 is almost a copy of the Bburago F40, except for the plastic details.

I've made several moulds for extra parts for my F40 project. I will show them in my WIP thread somewhere this week.

Sincerely

Pascal
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Very nice work. Really like the multiple changes you made to this Bburago F40.

The HW F40 is almost a copy of the Bburago F40, except for the plastic details.

I've made several moulds for extra parts for my F40 project. I will show them in my WIP thread somewhere this week.

Sincerely

Pascal
Hi Pascal,
Many thanks. It's not up to your standars of course, but it's only my fifth conversion, so I'm a long way behind you. Some of the mods you make are incredible so I'll need to study your F40 work again when I start on my HW version.

Yes they do appear identical apart from the plastic parts and rear clam side vents, plus F40 "engraved" on the wing support. Since writing the thread I have found a Swiss company who supplies the correct rear clam window, so I have ordered two for my F40s. My HW F40 must have been exposed to sunlight by a previous owner as the glass has yellowed so I can replace that as well. Look forward to seeing the parts and I will get back to you.
Cheers,
Peter
 

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Great job you did there! The Tremonia kit is very nice and I'll be building at least 2 in the near future. Nice to know the Polistil intake manifold looks that nice, for those who want to reproduce one of the production models it's a nice detail because, I don't know if you're aware but all the small details you indicated as "errors" (like the 5 slats on the sides, the absense of aid ductiong under he bonnet, the window-mounted side mirrors, the rear sindow with 2 rows of 10 louvres, the lack of widow winders or the tubular-looking inlet manifolds are all giveaways of the car: it's actually one of the 8 development prototypes known. I can't pinpoint which chassis in particular it is but the intake manifold indicates to me it's probably one of the very early ones, like 73015 or 74047).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes I am aware that most of the "errors" were in fact peculiar to the prototypes, so error was perhaps a wrong choice of words. The homologation drawings are on the internet somewhere and clearly show that Bb based their model on the non production varieties. That said, if you want a production modeI to upgrade, then the HW model is a better starting point. I was not aware that the spaghetti intake manifold was one of the prototype features and assumed it was a Bburago fantasy. I read somewhere that the owner of Bburago and Enzo Ferrari were personal friends and that he visited Ferrari and showed Enzo the first of the production models. The story goes that after he left, Enzo promptly berated his development team for allowing Bb to go into production with the F40 before Ferrari.
Cheers,
Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is a link to guy who mentions the anecdote about the meeting between Mario Besana and Enzo Ferrari. His name is Roberto Bigano and for 10 years he worked as a photographer for Bburago when they produced in Italy and took many of their catalogue and promotional photographs of their models. It's an interesting esting read so I thought I'd share the link.


Cheers,
Peter
 

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That is such an awesome transformation! ANd getting rid of the side mirrors and replaced with the F50 one looks great. Definitely looks heaps better. I am curious as to how you to add the black surround to the clear part? They look perfect. Also wondering what kind of paint did you use to detail the windscreen cowl and the door surround. I am hoping to find something similar which will achieve the same result where it is matte dark gray instead of completely black.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Many thanks Jazzy. I'm glad you like it.

To add the black to the clear parts I make a template from low tack masking tape. It's quite a standard technique and if you look on YouTube I'm sure you will find some tutorials. The only difference is that I use a spring bow pencil to mark the outline on the tape around the window for cutting. I'm just starting an upgrade on my Hotwheels F40 and will add a thread on the tune up page. When I get to doing the glass I'll be sure to document it and show the spring bow pencil if you are not familiar with it. The paint is applied on the inside and I used a gloss black auto paint from a rattle can as it's very quick drying, especially when assisted with a hair dryer.

For the window surrounds I used Tamiya rubber black XF85, applied by brush after masking. I use it quite a lot in other areas as it is less stark than matt black and looks better in my opinion.
Cheers,
Peter
 
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