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X-Filer has done a very nice upgrade of this model here,
and his work on the underside of the model is most helpful. However, after scouring t'internet the only other images I could find of the chassis were these of the CMC model. This is the development model.
View attachment 273978

And the production version. I've brightened the image to make the details clearer.
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I know you shouldn't use a model as refference, but as I've nothing else to go on, I'm going to assume that CMC having the resources to research their models, will for the price they charge, get everything spot on. Won't they?
Looking at those photos I now see I've missed a few details... damn, because of you I might have to break my DB4 up again and add some more detail. Opening the grille with sandpaper is a good idea, I have to try that out for myself too. Also, I see I've missed out the gearshift linkage and front anti-roll bar completely...

You should be right regarding CMC... they usually boast about 3D-scanning a real car in order to CAD their models... but in this case I honestly think they must've scanned half a dozen different cars and mashed the data together cause I've never found one single car that remotely resembles the shape and details ofthe CMC. Just take one small example: on each sills there are two small portholes with body-coloured panels meant to jack the car up when necessary... but if you look at the frame jacking points they don't even match with the ports. Therefore, I'd use it like the Pirat'e Code: more like guidelines.

Anybody know what those two circular gizmos above the anti roll bar are?
View attachment 273987

The chromed end of the exhaust is a separate part. It's not too shabby but I'm replacing the tail pipes with these made from bootlace ferrules.

View attachment 273988
I honestly don't know... but if I had to guess, the only thing that I can think of is that those are horns. A bit strange for them to be placed so down low but I've seen quite a lot of strange solutions on car assemblies...

Neither of the wheels sets match the prototype but they both look good to me and are a vast improvement on the shitty Yatming wheels. There was some comment on modifier's thread regarding the profile of the sidewalls on the KKs being too flat and I would agree they do look flatter than the BBRs. However, although I would have gone with BBR had they been available I am happy to use the KKs especially as I was able to get a set for about half of what it would cost for BBR. Heres a comparison of the wheels. The BBR wheel shown here is from the set P01 used on my E Type Jag but apart from the 2 ear wheel nuts are the same as P02s. All dimensions have been added for comparison.
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View attachment 273997

You wouldn't believe from this image that there is only 0.5mm difference in overall tyre width, as the taper towards the tread on the BBR tyres make them look much thinner. Clearly the tyre wall is flatter on the KK wheels as mentioned by X-Filer and the BBR tyres are closer to prototype.
View attachment 273993

The BBRs are slightly over 2mm larger in diameter along with the sidewall taper and and different tread patterns.
View attachment 273996
Haha, funny... I knew BBR made their tyres with the Dunlop Sport thread but now I see KK did the Michelin XWX... I'm not sure when it was first introduced but I'm pretty sure it's later than the 1960s. Still they look to me a bit to flat-sided for a vintage tyre and the fact that the thread is so perpendicular to the walls doesn't help, there should be a bit of curvature around the shoulders IMO. Oh, and it the KK are supposed to mimmick Borrani wire wheels, the spoke count is too low, the BBR is bang-on correct with 72.

I guess looking at the pictures, particularly mine, one might ask himself "why did he retain the original, oversized, knock-offs?" Well, that's because, first of all, when I bought this set, I was sent a wrong one wit the 2-ear knock-offs and second the BBR's Borranis have the centre lobe convex while the DB4 GTZ's are concave. But I know, they're a bit too large for the wheel's size.

View attachment 274113

The gap in the black paint is where the masking tape was not correctly positioned, but the part for the top of the radiator will cover it. To give the appearance of the plug leads running through the tubes to the plugs, I've drilled a hole in the top of the engine and fed them through there, with sepagshotr lengths running from ghd tube to ghd plugs.
Sorry, couldn't help myself: when I red this, I just thought the car walked through your keyboard when were writing this and went to the loo and when you got back you just kept on going. It made me laugh! 馃ぃ 馃ぃ

BTW: love the engine. There's one detail I'll be improving on mine one day and that's the fuel lines to the carburettors, I kept the original yellow-painted plastic bits but since then I found some thin clear tube that I'll be tinting Tamiya Clear Yellow like you did and replace them. On the other hand, the Eagle from Albufeira spotted a tiny small detail ou got wrong: you placed the distributor plug leads vertical to the distributor axle when they should be perpendicular:

Vehicle Car Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design


And where did you get those wingnuts? They're gorgeous! Let me guess: you scratchbuilt them from copper...

Keep it up!!
 

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Great job as always, Peter! Loved how you did the pouches on the door cards and, obviously, the window frames are so much better than on mine (that's actually somethingI will eventually redo). The solution for the indicators and taillights was spot on and the push buttons on the dashboard sure give it an extra feel of detail!
 

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The ERTL you mentioned is the "James Bond" model, with the bullet-proof screen, the machine guns and the ejector seat? Can you take a few comparative shots between them (especially the undercarriage you mentioned)?
 
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