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It was the first time that I tried to do a custom on one off my diecast…so don't be to hard on me please :giggle
First I had to choose the model…that wasn't so difficult, I just took one of my doubles, and in this case it was going to be a 1997 CLK GTR Sportswear…



First I started with removing the tampos…I tried it before I took the car apart in pieces…bigga mistake…some of the non acetone nail polish remover got on my back windo and left a nice mark on it…



so I decided to take the car apart….I removed all screws I saw, but the car did not cooperate very well…everything got stuck at the engine part…just until I got a tip to search for hidden screws…and I found 3 of those….after that everything came off easy….





Removing the tampos was something I did not have to do cause I wanted to repaint the car…



So I attacked it (outside) with what they call here 'Decapan'…a very aggressive and burning substance to remove paint from metal and furniture….just be sure that every plastic part is removed from the car (I forgot the front fog lights….)

You can see it here working on the back of the car….



The paint was easily to remove when afterwards I rinced the car in 'White Spirit'….



With all the paint removed I polished the car with a very fine steel woll…



This was the easy part…now the painting….
I started with 2 layers of a white primer (24 hours between each layer)



After that…the oven at 200 °F (120 °C)….My wife thought I was going crazy…..a car in the oven….



Time to paint : I used Tamiyas 'Racing White' TS-7…this was the most difficult part of my custom…painting the car with the paint spread equally…easy to say…..got the paint running from the trunk…



After painting…back in the oven and this was the result…



Just before priming the car I already started searching for decals and re- scaled them ….



I started with printing the decals on plain paper to try to give them a place on the car…



When all the decals were OK I printed them on decal paper.. (Testor's custom decal system)…and applied them on the car…This was giving me problems with the black ones because the ink started to run out when I tried to smoothen the decal with a brush…(after they dried for 24 hours with the fixing spray) ??



For the license plate I just took a picture of my 1:1 and re-scaled it to 1:18..

And this was the result…after clear coating it with 3 layers.....















Before and after :



This custom is far from perfect but it's a start..and if I'm tired of it , I just pour some decapan over it and start all over again...

Problems I got :

Running out decals (see DX on last picture…)
Air bubbles under the decals after drying
Paintjob not smooth over the entire car…
Damaged back window by using nai polish remover...

So if you have tips or comments for my next custom, please let me know…

Thanks for reading…
 
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mbc112 said:
Remarkable how little their is to some models once taken apart.

And seeing it in the oven was a giggle :giggle

Certainly A+ Material there mate :cheers
 

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All I can say is WOW!!! :eek:mg

That's exactly what I had in mind whan the DX car project poped up! That's the kind of model I would like to have as a DX commemorative model!

Amazing job! :10 :10 :10 :10 :10 :10 :10 :10 :10 :10
 
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I didn't realize this started off as a Sportswear Car.

Is that paint remover strong enough to require gloves and a mask? I use spray on paint remover and it causes the same bubling effect.
 
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Very nice tutorial there, thanks!
Awesome pictures too!
And I would not have guessed it was your first attempt in modding a car if you didn't tell me!
 

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I have found with the Testors decal paper, there is a very fine line between how much spray fixative is not enough and how much is too much. Not enough and the ink runs and blotches upon application on the model. Too much and the ink runs on the paper after you spray the stuff on. When I do a set of decals, I print out 4 to 6 of each decal just for this reason, so I always have spares.

You can get stuff called decal set that you can brush onto the decals after you put them on, before they are dry that softens them and makes them conform better and helps with getting air bubbles out from under them.

Despite the problems, which most customs have at least one, it's still a great looking model, and a great write-up. . . :nicejob :nicejob
 
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