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Yup. These models will degrade in time with absolutely little if any interference in as little as a few months. (i.e. paint/decal flake, unglueing, etc)
I suspect temperature fluctuations and shoddy build materials to be the cause.

Most notable on MR collection models. I've been noticing the above issues happening out of the box from the factory and simply just sitting there in display case over time.
With MR I made a rule for myself, look no closer than two feet, or I will find something wrong. lol

I'm more or less done collecting, I might rotate/sell a few here and there but it's just not worth the money or space past a couple dozen models for me.
 
Besides the manufacturer's faults, some of the deteriorating parts are caused by the owners. I have seen so many collectors who don't have dust-proof cabinets, who don't care about tires touching the shelf (causing the wheels to bend inwards), or using their oily hands touching the models.
 
Besides the manufacturer's faults, some of the deteriorating parts are caused by the owners. I have seen so many collectors who don't have dust-proof cabinets, who don't care about tires touching the shelf (causing the wheels to bend inwards), or using their oily hands touching the models.
I can only agree with you Ferrari Forever. In fact I'll quote from my sale post

Factory box
All models kept in their original boxes (with one exception). No models displayed in the open, and in fact very few ever displayed in the airtight single display cases I have. Almost all models never removed from their boxes especially those bought direct from dealers.

Air quality
ALL my models (in their boxes) are kept in a normal room, i.e. not in a basement or loft. The room has proper heating and ventilation, and I ensure the temperature stays in the 16 to 21 range and humidity in 30% to 45% range (at all times not reaching the dew point so moisture does not condense). I take all these steps to minimize the chances of zinc rot developing, and so far this has been a successful strategy.

Furthermore for all models I have put some high quality "Tyvek" sealed silica gel desiccant packs inside the model boxes, sometimes replacing or complementing the silica gel that comes from the factory, to ensure zero chance of moisture and humidity inside the model box.

Smoking/tobacco exposure
I do not smoke, and my home is a smoke-free one (rather strongly dislike tobacco and its odors)

Light exposure
I am a BIG believer in minimal exposure to light, so much so that of the models that are in window boxes I have them draped with paper to block the little light there is in the room. Strong light can and does discolor paint pigments, so there is only a low-power lamp in the room. Sunlight is completely blocked.

Handling
Gloves for handling
Another area I am cautious about is the fact that metals can corrode from exposure to even mild acids. Fingerprints in particular leave oils the skin that, if not cleaned up properly, can permanently etch into bare metal. This is especially a no-no for CMC and Exoto models. I therefore only use clean cotton "silver service" gloves for handling all diecast (and resin!) models.

Acid-free paper for inspection and photography base
Furthermore I ensure no contact with ordinary paper, and use acid-free papers for any model inspection or photography where I have to place the model on a clean surface.
 
I can only agree with you Ferrari Forever. In fact I'll quote from my sale post

Factory box
All models kept in their original boxes (with one exception). No models displayed in the open, and in fact very few ever displayed in the airtight single display cases I have. Almost all models never removed from their boxes especially those bought direct from dealers.

Air quality
ALL my models (in their boxes) are kept in a normal room, i.e. not in a basement or loft. The room has proper heating and ventilation, and I ensure the temperature stays in the 16 to 21 range and humidity in 30% to 45% range (at all times not reaching the dew point so moisture does not condense). I take all these steps to minimize the chances of zinc rot developing, and so far this has been a successful strategy.

Furthermore for all models I have put some high quality "Tyvek" sealed silica gel desiccant packs inside the model boxes, sometimes replacing or complementing the silica gel that comes from the factory, to ensure zero chance of moisture and humidity inside the model box.

Smoking/tobacco exposure
I do not smoke, and my home is a smoke-free one (rather strongly dislike tobacco and its odors)

Light exposure
I am a BIG believer in minimal exposure to light, so much so that of the models that are in window boxes I have them draped with paper to block the little light there is in the room. Strong light can and does discolor paint pigments, so there is only a low-power lamp in the room. Sunlight is completely blocked.

Handling
Gloves for handling
Another area I am cautious about is the fact that metals can corrode from exposure to even mild acids. Fingerprints in particular leave oils the skin that, if not cleaned up properly, can permanently etch into bare metal. This is especially a no-no for CMC and Exoto models. I therefore only use clean cotton "silver service" gloves for handling all diecast (and resin!) models.

Acid-free paper for inspection and photography base
Furthermore I ensure no contact with ordinary paper, and use acid-free papers for any model inspection or photography where I have to place the model on a clean surface.
Thanks for all the good advice that all of us can use!
 
Thanks for all the good advice that all of us can use!
Happy to help Steve!

I should also add my point about the models being in their boxes is of my current status, and my plan for displaying models is to use 100% airtight cases such as the ones sold by BBR, where an acrylic case completely encloses a single model. That to me is the only surefire way to prevent dust accumulation. Cabinets and shelves allow a little bit of dust in which over time WILL make models dusty 😐
 
I can only agree with you Ferrari Forever. In fact I'll quote from my sale post

Factory box
All models kept in their original boxes (with one exception). No models displayed in the open, and in fact very few ever displayed in the airtight single display cases I have. Almost all models never removed from their boxes especially those bought direct from dealers.

Air quality
ALL my models (in their boxes) are kept in a normal room, i.e. not in a basement or loft. The room has proper heating and ventilation, and I ensure the temperature stays in the 16 to 21 range and humidity in 30% to 45% range (at all times not reaching the dew point so moisture does not condense). I take all these steps to minimize the chances of zinc rot developing, and so far this has been a successful strategy.

Furthermore for all models I have put some high quality "Tyvek" sealed silica gel desiccant packs inside the model boxes, sometimes replacing or complementing the silica gel that comes from the factory, to ensure zero chance of moisture and humidity inside the model box.

Smoking/tobacco exposure
I do not smoke, and my home is a smoke-free one (rather strongly dislike tobacco and its odors)

Light exposure
I am a BIG believer in minimal exposure to light, so much so that of the models that are in window boxes I have them draped with paper to block the little light there is in the room. Strong light can and does discolor paint pigments, so there is only a low-power lamp in the room. Sunlight is completely blocked.

Handling
Gloves for handling
Another area I am cautious about is the fact that metals can corrode from exposure to even mild acids. Fingerprints in particular leave oils the skin that, if not cleaned up properly, can permanently etch into bare metal. This is especially a no-no for CMC and Exoto models. I therefore only use clean cotton "silver service" gloves for handling all diecast (and resin!) models.

Acid-free paper for inspection and photography base
Furthermore I ensure no contact with ordinary paper, and use acid-free papers for any model inspection or photography where I have to place the model on a clean surface.
This makes sense, in theory. But I’m honestly not doing any of this, and out of almost 150 models in my collection, 0 have zinc pest, only 1 has paint rash and it got it when in it was in its box in storage for years. And only one of my UTs has wheel melt.

I blame the manufacturers, 100%. And I know this because it comes down to models from certain manufacturers, and definitely certain eras, having a stronger build than others.
My experience is that old Maistos, the UTs and older Autoarts, and surprisingly, CMCs, are built like tanks. They have easily handled me moving, being on open display, very high humidity, being taken outdoors (to photograph), whatever else. Meanwhile, Mattel “Elites” and resins fall apart (mirrors, wipers, trim, badges, etc) if you look at them the wrong way, if they didn’t already at the factory or in transit. Both model build integrity and quality control have gotten so sloppy over the years, these manufacturers clearly do not care any more.

Diecasts that I’ve had in my collection for 15 years are in perfect shape, resins that I got last year are literally falling apart. If I spent all of that money, time, and effort, maybe they would hold it together. But probably not when so many of them have qc issues straight out of the box, plus how I've never had to do all of that with my diecasts, it's not very encouraging.
 
I think that models if on display need to have air and not placed in a sealed unit and where temperature changes are not rapid, I don't think I have noticed any real issues with my models and I do try to remember to rotate the wheels on my models every few months.

The only models that I do have that are in sealed units are resin models, all my diecast models are in glass cases that have gapes in, so they do let in a few specs of dust here and there.

I don't know how long models are expected to last though.
 
One of my Kyosho Countach models is experience paint "webbing" on the plastic parts (air intakes and headlight covers), similar to that Kyosho NSX from above. Not much I can do about it.

I'm relatively new to the hobby, and I'm at a stage where I simply enjoy displaying my models. I clean them and apply car wax to them, but I do not take extra care or place them back in boxes. Maybe one day.
 
Like Mike K, I don't do anything special with my diecasts. Many are on display in cheap plastic cases (some even in direct sunlight!), others are in their original boxes in my closet. I even have a couple out in my unheated/uncooled garage! Most of my stuff is early- to late-2000s, haven't bought too many in the past 10 years or so, but all but one are still mint. The one in question was an Ertl Dodge Demon 340 that I bought new from Toys 'R Us back in the 90's that came out of the box with a weird dull area in the black paint which is still there. It hasn't gotten worse, and I've never tried to make it better. It is what it is and I accept it.

Maybe neglect is the key to long life? 😁
 
My Kyosho models (Testarossa, F40, Countach) all have minor paint rash. None of my AA's have paint issues. Same as my HW Elites. I keep them boxed in the attic. It's dark and dry there :)
My AA Mac F1 is on display in a cheap plastic case already for years. It's not in direct sunlight. Still looks flawless. However: I once had the HW 456m and that just crumbled like a cookie while never unboxed..
 
Just out of curiosity, which Elites do you have with no paint rash? A few of mine also have no rash, I just want to see if maybe there are specific models which developed no such problems, or if it's just luck of the draw.
I am fairly confident to say that both of my HWE models in ionised red (the 60th anniv version) are paint rash free but i think that might have something to do with the special metallic paint they used? I do think getting paint rashes on HWE is really down to luck. Fairly safe to say 60% of my HWE have yet to exhibit paint rashes but some not so lucky. My 125S HWSE although look fine from a meter away but if i shine torch on it i can spot tiny paint rashes in various spots. Not sure if they were already there to begin with or only started developing after I acquired it.
 
Just out of curiosity, which Elites do you have with no paint rash? A few of mine also have no rash, I just want to see if maybe there are specific models which developed no such problems, or if it's just luck of the draw.
550 barchetta, laferrari, f355 spider, 348ts, 599 gto, 312 t2, f12berlinetta, all in red. And a 612 (not an Elite btw)
 
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Thanks jazzy and forza! (y)

I have only a handful of HWE which are completely ruined by paint rash: 458 Italia, 360 Modena and 575M Maranello, all in red. I have a LaFerrari in yellow and a 458 Spider in black with no rash, but with paint defects such as "milky" smudges on the clear coat and what looks like glue smears (458 spider), and black spots that won't come off with polishing (Laferrari). Both bought brand new, in unopened boxes.

All my other Elites are rash-free, even a F50 I just received last week. So I guess the "HWE = paint rash" myth, which I used to believe, is nothing but a hasty generalization.
 
Kyoshos are the worst. It's like they didn't believe in body prep before painting.

Everyone, move your cars once in a while. Never let them sit for extended periods of time. They are living beings just like yourselves. Neglect and remaining stationary accelerate deterioration. So, move and turn wheels, open and close doors and bonnets from time to time, cradle them in your hands and sweet talk them and make sure to dust! Love them and they will love you back.
 
Referring back to a post here from Uzair a few weeks ago, obviously the best way to prevent models from deteriorating is to always keep them in the original boxes, out of sunlight, in a temperature and moisture control room, never touch them without gloves, never have the wheels touch the ground and have them completely sealed away from any dust.
However, doing so, I am not sure what the point would be of collecting model cars. That is, unless you see this hobby purely as an investment and only aim at selling models at some point for a profit.
For me, it is essentials to display models and be able to look at them and touch them. If that means they will be deteriorating a bit quicker, so be it. I do take very good care of my models, but I value the accessibility of the models higher than them lasting forever and I measure the joy I get from collecting less by the condition of the models but more by how much enjoyable time I spent on and with the collection.
Cheers,
Christian
 
Referring back to a post here from Uzair a few weeks ago, obviously the best way to prevent models from deteriorating is to always keep them in the original boxes, out of sunlight, in a temperature and moisture control room, never touch them without gloves, never have the wheels touch the ground and have them completely sealed away from any dust.
However, doing so, I am not sure what the point would be of collecting model cars. That is, unless you see this hobby purely as an investment and only aim at selling models at some point for a profit.
For me, it is essentials to display models and be able to look at them and touch them. If that means they will be deteriorating a bit quicker, so be it. I do take very good care of my models, but I value the accessibility of the models higher than them lasting forever and I measure the joy I get from collecting less by the condition of the models but more by how much enjoyable time I spent on and with the collection.
Cheers,
Christian
You’re right. It’s about finding the balance between enjoying them and protecting them.
 
All this talk makes me nervous to inspect my collection. I have a GMP Buick T-Type which I believe suffers from paint rash (I remember the paint looked a bit odd on parts of it, but didn't know what it was at the time - it also may not be paint rash just poor application or poor memory) and the Kyosho F40 which looked fine the last time I looked at it a few years back. I used to display some of my lessor models and always had to deal with dust. Now, they're all boxed up in their original packages or wrapped up and put away in a few bins.

That is, unless you see this hobby purely as an investment and only aim at selling models at some point for a profit.
I, for one, try not to question what other people collect or their reasons, but at least in my case I would've done better taking the money I used buying my most valuable model (the aforementioned F40 based on ebay pricing) and instead buying a handful of bank stocks. Based on current sell price and more than a decade of 3-4% dividend payouts I would've been about (roughly) 25% ahead. Of course I wouldn't have had the model to enjoy over these years and share it's beauty with others. Then again, I wouldn't have to worry about taking care of it either and that darn paint rash! Ce la vie!
 
Quite a lot of my collection has paint rash, it just seems to occur out of nowhere, even though I lovingly care, clean and polish them with proper car products it still appears on them. Its kinda gutting seeing it ☹
 
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