[P A D]

Time for another Ferrari to receive a facelift on my workbench. I was nearing completion of my JE Ferrari P4 but then had a bit of a distaster and buggered up the paintwork on one side. ARRRRRRGH!

After I calmed down I decided to put it to one side and move on to something else and revisit it later. This is my latest purchase and it's such an iconic and historic Ferrari (having given the Scuderia their last win at LeMans) that I've bumped it up the queue ahead of my 288 GTO and E Type Jag.

Most of the HW baseline models leave a lot to be desired, but even straight our of the box, they do look very nice, as long as there's nothing better next to them. This one is no exception and I was lucky enough to pick it up for les than 30 quid boxed and in excellent condition. It's my intention to fit a BBR Borrani wheel set and originally I was going to work with a Bburago model which I also purchased cheaply on the bay. However, Bb having fit way under scale wheels and tyres, also reduced the size of the rear wheel arches, which precludes the fitting of the BBR scale wheels without major butchery on the metalwork. With that in mind I gave it as is to my youngest son and picked up the HW to work with instead.

Enough of the preamble and on to the mods list.

Replace the wheels with a set of Borranis from BBR.
Remove the side hinges from the front compartment cover and replace with dog legs as on the rear car.
With the hinges replaced, the cover will open correctly allowing a full height radiator to be fitted.
Add extra details to the compartment.
Add PE mesh grills to the air intakes on the cover.
Remove the relief cast side indicators and replace with clear items.
Replace the front chromed lights with clear items.
Replace the moulded chromed front grill with PE mesh but keeping the chrome surround.
Repaint the seats blue and the interior aluminium where not covered in black padding.
Replace the overscale handbrake handle.
Replace the overscale steeringwheel, switches and gear lever with scratched up items.
Replace the ill fitting rear cockpit window.
Replace the rear moulded grills on the engine cover with PE mesh and add PE mesh to the aperture above the intake trumpets.
Cut out the relief cast lower rear grill and replace with PE mesh.
Modify the framework in the engine compartment, fit mounts for the spare wheel plus strapping.
Make and add the battery behind the gearbox under the spare wheel.
Make the missing top half of the gearbox and add as much extra detail to the engine as possible.
Strip the superfluous chrome plating from the engine and repaint as appropriate.
Plus anything else that springs to mind along the way, all without damaging the existing paintwork. Fingers crossed.

This is the starting point, well more or less. The wheels have been replaced with the BBRs with the originals shown for comparison. Although undersized at 36mm and 39mm OD (should be 38mm and 40mm) they don't look too bad and are at least in proportion, have a solid 3 eared wheel nut and reasonable tyre tread pattern.

And on it's own. If you just replace the wheels on this model and do nothing else, it make a tremendous improvement in my opinion.

Removing the relief cast side indicators. Masked up first then cut around the indicator before rubbing down.

The replacements were filed up from perspex rod held in the pin vice. Cutting off the stub is only done after polishing.

Installed and painted with Tamiya clear orange.

This is how the front cover opens as it comes. With the side hinges, the front edge dips inside when opened necessitating a shortened radiator to allow clearance.

The hinge pins on the bodywork were cut with the razor saw to remove the cover. After masking masking up the cover I attacked the fittings on the cover with razor saw cutting burr in mini drill and riffler file.

Ready for fitting the hinges. I also removed the paint in the area on the body where the new hinge plate would be epoxied.

The hinges were made from brass rod and plate solded with 145 degree solder.

And installed with epoxy.

Clearly much more room now to add the correct height radiator.

The existing radiator was cut from the tank moulding necessitating the replacement of the lower mount with 60 thou plasticard. The top edge of the radiator was retained and extended with 60 thou plasticard. I have to say yet again how awful the plastic is when it comes to filing and smoothing.

Here's the radiator completed with additional detailing added in brass. It will be barely visible but I also added the smaller cooler for I assume, the oil.

Modified fillers on the tank and radiator and pipework added. Expansion bottle, brake and clutch reservoirs and screen wash bottle made from plasticard.

And trial fitted.

Details painted and fitted with the interior painted aluminium and the underside of the cover matt black.

Plus PE mesh added to the air intakes. I thought about removing the intake covers and replacing with clear plastic but decided to pass on that.

So far, so good.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[spikyone]

Great start already, I was impressed by the indicators and then saw what you'd done with the hinge 😮👏 Excellent modelling as always.
Good luck with getting the P4 fixed too.

 

[Arnage]

Impressive work with this hinge. Great start for this upgrade.

 

[triggerhappy]

Seriously amazing work. I am entirely in awe of these improvements!! Can't wait to see more!!

 

[P A D]

Many thanks gentlemen. I'm glad you like it.

I see I've managed to duplicate the post, so I've been in touch with one of the moderators and asked him to delete one.

Spiky, what happened to the P4 was a mix of bad luck followed by gross stupidity on my part. Suffice to say I was well pissed off and was tempted to chuck it against the wall, but I calmed down and sanity returned. Always worse when you screw up close to the finish. I'll get it right though.

Unfortunately I didn't take any images of the wheel swap. Getting the HW wheels off is a bit of a pain as the split end axles are a very tight fit in the locations inside the wheel hubs. I busted one front wheel trying to pull it off, but then switched to inserting a chisel blade between the inner flange of the wheel and the axle boss and then twisting.

The hubs on the BBR wheels are turned aluminium and rotate in the centre of the PE spokes. Not a great engineering solution having the cusp of an etching rubbing against soft aluminium. If this was a model that would receive a lot of running, it would wear a groove in the hub. However, the wheels only have to turn a little now and then when some big kid picks up the model and gives the wheesl a flick with his finger. If you look on the BBR website they show images with the dimentions but here's an idea of the construction. This is the back view. The hole in the center boss which you need to insert your axles into is 3mm OD. The axles on the model are 4mm, so you either have to replace the axles, or drill out the axle holes in the wheels to 4mm. My original plan was to do the latter and you can see two of the wheels drilled part way. I did this by hand holding the boss still with fine long nose pliers. This took ages but I daren't risk trashing the wheels using a power tool. When drilling I placed a coin underneath the wheel to support the stub on the outer face and prevent the spokes from being buckled.

This is the outer face of the wheels. HW at the top. The chromed plastic wheel nuts are glued to the stub axle and, as I said, the wheels spins on the hub. The downside of this is that the wheel nuts don't spin but I can live with that.

In the end, I only fixed the front wheels by this method after cutting down the axles to about 2mm to match the drilled recess in the hubs. At the rear, I wasn't happy with the plastic axles which are too weak to support the weight of the model and bend.

As there was still plent of metal left of the original 3mm holes, I decided to remove the axles and replace with a length of 3mm brass rod running through the gearbox.

The upper part of the gearbox along with the upper rear quadrant of the discs is not modelled by HW to accomodate the compromises they make, so the discs were cut off as well. He is the engine block after de-chroming in bleach with the replacement discs made from plasticard.

This is how I make the discs using a spring bow compass from one of my drafting sets. I scribe the desired circle onto one side of a square of plasticard ensuring I push through the centre hole. Turn over the workpiece and using the punched through centre hole, scribe the circle on this side. Then, using side cutters, snip though from the edge of the card up to the circle edge.

Then bend the individual segments one at a time to snap them off and Bob's your uncle, you have a disc.

This is the de-chromed engine. There's no top to the gearbox or bell housing and the discs have no calipers and the rear upper quadrants is missing.

And the parts separated. Super detailed or what? The exhaust pipe are just plain black plastic.

The top of the gearbox was scratched up from styrene tube, plasticard and copper wire for the ribbing. A representation of the brake calipers was also added from plasticard.

The silencer boxes are of stepped open construction and not prototypical I suspect. Other than infill the open areas with 60 thou plasticard I'm using them as is, albeit painted.

This wider angle view shows the mods to the framework, a mix of copper and brass rod.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[BK1]

Fantastic work so far! It's a joy to watch these diecasts get reworked. The level of detail you put into this is incredible!

 

[vulpex]

Very cool new project and already the start is impressive - looking forward to follow your updates…
What are your plans regarding the E-Type?

 

[Robbo1983]

Amazing work, your detailing is awesome 🙂👍

 

[P A D]

Thanks for the kind words gents.

Vulpex,
On the Bb E Type I'll be changing the wheels to a set from BBR. The set I have are the same as the front ones on the 250 LM, 38mm OD but with 2 eared knock off nuts. I was going to use wheels from the Maisto Jag Mk 2 as done by @X-Filer on his thread:-

The X-Clinic: Jaguar E-Type FHC

Since the beggining, when I bought my Bburago Jaguar E-Type FHC that I thought it was a good basis for a nice model (specially for who can't afford the AutoArt). The chosmetic works I was to operate in this already beautiful lady were more or less these: - Interior detailing (including paiting...

www.diecastxchange.com

The spoke dishing is spot on for the E Type, but unfortunately the diameter over the tyres is a little small. When I received the wheels for the 250 LM and saw how good they were close up, I bought the alternative set with 4 X 38mm wheels. Sure, the spoke pattern is not correct but they look better to my eye.

These are the Jag wheels.

And the 250 LM

As well as changing the wheels, I'll be pretty much following in @X-Filer's footsteps and adding as much extra detail as I can, plus with the experience of changing the hinges on the 250 LM front cover, doing the same on the E Type's tailgate door.
Cheers,
Peter

 

[jazzy426]

This is almost like a rebuild apart from the shell. The progress looks wickedly cool I think the finished result easily rival the HWE version of the 250LM.

 

[P A D]

So back to the 250 LM. I forgot to mention changing the tail pipes on the exhaust, using cut down bootlace ferrules. The HW mouldings are not too bad, but I thought what the heck.

This comparison image with the Bb model on the left, shows that although different in some areas of the construction, HW made no changes to the engine mouldings. The rocker covers and fuel tanks are linked by a bridge piece as are the frame work and the overspill surrounds to the fuel fillers. All these bridge pieces were cut out and rubbed smooth (as far as is possible with the bloody awful plastic) and the overspill surrounds replaced with something closer to the real thing.

Here's the engine after painting. I don't think any of the cars had anything other than black rocker covers, but I prefer red, so went with that.

I painted the exhausts with Tamiy gloss black with a little of the Molotow Chrome pen ink added to give them a slightly metallic effect seen in some prototype images.

Distributor caps painted a sort of Baekelite brown and plug leads added from of 5mm black cable. Some cars have the leads running through a tube before exiting to the plugs through holes along the tube length, but I didn't have and suitable tube, so went with cable ties made by stripping the insulation from the black cable and using the fine wire.

Rocker cab fixing bolts picked out in silver and the lifting handles painted black. I used the largest brass rivets I had available for the handles but they should really be spheres rather than just domes.

Extra pipe work added to the gearbox and the brake calipers, although the latter are hard to see I these images. The trumpets have been drilled out as much as I dared to improve the appearance, but as always with the plastic used on these models, it's very difficult to get a smooth finish one you cut it. Fortunately it look better to the naked eye. For now they trumpets are only painted silver, but once the engine is fitted and further handling no longer necessary, I will give them a brush coat of the Molotow chrome. I gave the axles a coat of Tamiya copper as I've seen prototype images with this colour on some cars.

And dry fit in the engine bay. The replacement overspill surrounds can be seen in this view. There's a fair bit of extra pipework to be added in the area just behind the firewall and near the fuel tanks. Also note the window surround on the passenger door. As it comes, this is painted but not sufficient to be opaque, so I gave it a couple of brush coats of Tamiya LP21.

Some of you may have spotted the replacement lower grill at the rear in earlier images. This is how I did it.
The bodywork was wrapped in a rag to protect it from accidental scratches and the paintwork around the grill masked up with tape. The corners of the tape at each end of the grill needed to cutting ing back to the edge in this image.

I propped the model on a folded towel to give clearance to the 3mm bit used to drill holes around the perimeter of the grill. Adding water to the work area helps to keep the bit cool and improves the efficacy of the bit so it cuts through the metal quicker. Stops the swarf flying about too much as well.

Some of the remaining "bridges" between the grill and the edge can be snipped with side cutters or cut though with a milling burr in the drill.

To give this. Then after re-masking the paintwork, I attacked the remaining excess metal with files and a circular cutting burr in the drill.

All done and dusted.

The grill needs to be flush with the outer edge of the aperture, so I added a flange from 0.6mm copper wire around the perimeter. Masking tape strategically placed was used to hold the wire while I "spot welded" it in place with CA glue. When the glue had cured I removed the tape and the carefully ran CA between the spots to finish the job.

To give this.

I then primed the work area and touched up the paintwork with Tamiya Italian Red LP21 which is pretty close to the HW red on the model.

I then made a template for the grill with masking tape placed over the aperture and cut around the perimeter with a scalpel.

The template was placed on the PE mesh then cut out using sharp embroidery scissors (mine for modelling purposes, not my wife's). Some rubbing down was needed to get a good fit and here it is after fitting and painting.

And an inside view with the scratched up battery in place.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

This is almost like a rebuild apart from the shell. The progress looks wickedly cool I think the finished result easily rival the HWE version of the 250LM.

Many thanks Jazzy. It will certainly be better in the area of the dashboard and steering wheel, which from images I've seen appear to have the same overscale items as on the base model. One area I'm struggling with is the rear springs. Making them is easy, but I can't see how I could fit them without major butchery to the members that link the lower rear of the engine bay to the main body. I can't be sure but it may be that the Elite version has a modified casting to accomodate the springs. If you or anyone else have one and can post a close up image of the area around the springs that would be a big help. Nothing is permanently fixed in the engine bay yet so I can still make mods to accomodate the springs without damaging any of the completed work.

As already mentioned, the front wheels are 2mm undescale at 36mm OD over the tyres. That poses a problem with the spare as the BBR set only provides 4 wheels and tyres. So to use one of the HW front wheels, I first glued two strips of plastic card around the wheel. The wheel was repainted aluminium followed by a coat of Molotow chrome ink. This gives a more toned down chrome effect which I think better matches the BBR wheels. After heating the tyre in boiling water to make it more pliable, I was able to stretch it over the increased diameter of the wheel. This increases the OD over the tyre to a fraction under 38mm. The plasticard additions were then painted with Tamiya rubber black. It's not perfect, but I think it looks better than having a spare which is too small. I removed the knock off nut and made good the flange as the spare is secured with straps, still to be made. Another coat of rubber black is needed on the tyre wall.

The engine cover has had the grill to the top vent over the trumpets fitted and I've also added a flange to the rear vents in preparation for fitting the PE grill. Mould pips, part number and the fixing lug for the plastic grill have been ground off.

Flanges fixed to the edge of the rear apertures for the grilles to butt up against.

The metal in the area of the top vent is much thinner so I just fitted the grill to the inside.

This is the original I'll fitting rear window. The glass is too big and it has two uprights moulded on both sides. I used it as a template to make a replacement and painted the frame onto it before fitting.

It is now fitted to the top edge of the firewall. The engine is lopsided but is not fixed yet.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[jazzy426]

Hey Peter not sure if these helps…

these were taken from my 250LM elite. Let me know if you need any specific close up photos I’ll be happy to snap more

 

[P A D]

Thank you very much Jazzy, that's a big help. If you could take a view from the side over the wheel looking down towards the spring, that would help further.
Cheers,
Peter

 

[jazzy426]

Tried taking some photos over the top as close as my phone camera can go…

 

[P A D]

Once again, many thanks for taking the trouble to post these images. I think I see now how HW have done it, by making some compromises to the lenght of the shocker and mounting it higher up at the bottom end.
This image from DK Engineering's website shows a much longer strut and spring mounted quite a it below the axle.

I'll have to get my thinking cap on and see if I can come up with a way to represent it, a bit better than HW have. I've a feeling I'm going to have to cut some metal out ahead of the axle to gain some clearance, but we'll see.
Cheers,
Peter

 

[X-Filer]

Hey Peter! Nice to see you're making progress on your 250 LM. This tim it will be me who will be taking notes for when I'm working on my Bburago (the moulding is pretty much the same as the HW). I will be reproducing the chasssis #6105, which in fact is the one pictured in your rear suspension photo from DK Engineering. The solution you found for the front bonnet is magnificent as usual, I'm not going to venture into that but it does give it an extra bit of detailed feel.

Honestly, I wouldn't have gone for the red cam covers, I know it makes the engine pop out a little bit more under the clamshell but... it's not correct. The 250 TR is pretty much the only 250 that had red cam covers (hence the Testa Rossa monicker). Also, you said you damaged one of the fron wheels while trying to take it off... AFAIK, all HW have the from wheels bolted on from the backside of the upright, that wasn't the case?

Have you ever tried usind stainless steel or galvanized washers to make the disc brakes? It's the solution I use the most, particularly on these early disc-brake cars which had solid discs, they're perfectly shaped and have their (natural) metalic look.

BTW, what's the steering wheel you will be using? AutoMobilia make some sweet photoetched Nardi wheels with plywood rims that look just awesome, I've used them before on my 250 GT/L and maybe will be getting one fot he 250 LM too:

And on the headlights, are you going to add the chrome frames? Tremonia used to have an excelent detail kit for the 250 LM but it's discontinued and I can't get to find one anywhere... all I could find was a simples kit by Légende that includes only the grilles and the headlight frames:

I may be a bit late but hope this photo helps on the rear coilover assembly:

 

[P A D]

Hi João,
Glad you like the bonnet hinge. I'll do the same on the 288GTO when I get to that and I'm hoping to do something similar on the E Type Jag's rear door.

Thanks for the image of the spring on the Elite 250 LM. It confirms what I thought about how HW fitted it in and there's clearly a screwed in bracket fixing the rear axle which is not on the base model. I think I can do better than HW with the spring and this afternoon, I chopped out some metal at the rear to give some needed clearance. I haven't transferred the photos from my phone to my table yet, so will post the images later. Your photo reminds me I still need to make and add the coils to the frames behind the distributors.

As for the red rocker cover, you are absolutely correct, it should be black and I can't argue with you on that. However, I consider my models to be only generic representations of the prototypes so I'm cutting myself some slack and sticking with red. If I was replicating a specific prototype as you are then I would absolutely be painting it black.

The steering wheel is scratch built and I'm pretty pleased with it. I'm jumping the gun a bit as I haven't got to the cockpit upgrades yet but here's the finished steering wheel ready for fitting.

Thanks for the heads up on the Auto Mobilia one which I'll bear in mind for future projects. Although I've got the Kyosho 250 GTO, I only made some small repairs as it is excellent as it comes, but I fancy a HW one to upgrade, as I would like one in plain red.

I haven't given much thought yet to the area of the front lights, but they clearly require improving and the PE set from Legende may come in useful.

As to your future upgrading of the Bburago 250 LM, are you intending to change the wheels? If so you will need to do some serious butchery to the metal in the area of the rear wheels arches if you want to fit BBR scale wheels. In this comparison with Bb model you can see how the wheel arch has been reduced by extending the metal behind the door rearward. Since this image was taken, I've also lowere the ride height on the HW to take into account the larger BBR wheels.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

I've been working on the rear struts/springs and have something that's acceptable to me. I'll get to that later and move to the cockpit which I did earlier. This is the dashboard, steering wheel and front cockpit panels as they come, albeit I had filled the gaping hole in the right hand side padding where the handle for the hand brake is. The gauges and handbrake should be higher up on the panel, but there's no room due to the cut out needed for the door hinge.

Pretty awful really. Just look at the size of the switches, too few and way too large!

This is the real thing, well at least one of them as there are a number of variations and this one doesn't have any padding. Note the position of the gear shift assembly in relation to the seats and the locking lever over the the reverse gear slot. As it comes, the HW assembly is much further forward and the reverse gear lock is on the middle (2nd gear) slot! That would have made for an interesting start at Le Mans. Into 1st, gun it, then into reverse and leave all the cogs on the track. 😭😭😭

I don't have an image of the gear shift assembly but this is the moulded gear lever after chopping it off to consign to the bin.

This image of the Bburago model's cockpit which is identical apart from the seat and lining colour, plus a slightly different oversize steering wheel, shows how close the gear shift assembly is to the dash. If that was real, you'd smash your knuckles against the switches every time you pushed the lever forward! Note the humungous handle for the hand brake located in a large slot under the gauges in the front side padding.

This is what I did. Gear assembly relocated rearward. Gear lever replaced with a sewing pin after reshaping the ball on top by turning in the proxxon and filing. Reverse gear lock relocated to the reverse slot. All bare metal areas painted with Tamiya aluminium and black areas in Tamiya rubber black. I prefer this to the Matt black as is is a bit less stark to my eye. Seats repainted blue, but I'm not happy with the colour and may repaint later as they are only placed for the photo.
Steering wheel scratched up from copper and brass wire, nickel silver strip and plastic rod. Switch board cut off and replaced with a shallower item in plasticard, with the switches made from plastic rod with short lengths of silicon tube to represent the black plastic knobs on some of the switches. Handbrake handle (difficult to see in this image, made from plastic rod and brass wire.

Here you can see the hand brake better. I buggered up the sticker for the gauges above it and had to replace with some spares from the F40 Tremonia kit.

The main gauges were replaced with some items I had in stock and the foot pedals painted with a mix of Tamiya gloss black with a little Molotow chrome ink mixed in.

This shows the relocated position of the gear change assembly. Seat belts have yet to be fitted.

Here's how I made the steering wheel. Three strips if nickel silver were cut from the sheet. In the bottom left corner, you can see the position of the spokes marked in the wood to align them for soldering.

Before soldering, the strips need filing to shape. To save doing the filing 3 times, I soldered the strips together and then filed to shape. Afterwards re-fluxing and applying the soldering iron separates them.

The wheel was made from copper wire formed around a piece of suitable diameter dowel. After some adjustment with the file to get the wheel to match diameter drawn on the wood, the joint was soldered and cleaned up. The spokes were cleaned up, masking taped to the template drawn on the wood and soldered at the centre.

The wheel was placed on the template and a groove for each spoke filed about half way through.

Before fitting the spokes to the wheel, I drilled the center and soldered in a length of brass rod to locate the wheel to the steering column. The wheel and spokes are then aligned on the template and the spokes soldered to the wheel.

To give this.

The excess spoke length is then snipped off and the joints cleaned up. To compete the assemble a thin disc was cut from a suitable diameter styrene rod and fixed in place with CA to the centre of the spokes. I daresay, the PE aftermarket wheel mentioned by X-Filer would be better, but I'm pretty pleased with the result. The spokes should flare out slightly at the wheel, but I gave up walking on water. 😁 😁 😁

Yep, job's a good un, as we say in these parts.

Shame about the non period gauges above the handbrake, but needs must.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

Thanks to the images of the HWE 250 LM rear spring set up posted by jazzy426 and X-Filer, I was able to get my head around how I could add them to my model. HWE have compromised quite a bit by fitting the lower end of the spring to the upper moulded wishbone above the axle. The image of the real thing clearly shows it is located below the axle (to the lower wishbone?), but the construction of the casting does not allow clearance to do that. Therefore, much as I was hoping not to have to do it, further butchery of the metal with the proxxon was required. First off though, I wrapped the model in an old pillow case to avoid any accidentantal damage to the paintwork.

I then made two vertical saw cuts ahead of the rear axle mount and then drilled holes between them. Again water was used to improve the cutting of the bit and keep the swarf from flying about too much.

Then after a bit of work with a milling burr in the proxxon, I was able to remove the excess metal and tidy up with the file. As can be seen, I'd previously sprayed the bottom of the engine bay matt black, so some re-priming and touching up was needed.

The next issue is the position of the wishbones on the inner frames. They are placed too far forward where the spring should pass so they had to come off.

They are easy to sliced off with a chisel blade.

The side plate on the frame had to be extended rearward with plasticard to remount the wishbones further back.

Refitting was done by drilling holes in the frame and adding short pins from brass rod to the wishbones.

Which then leave space for the springs.

The struts were made from styrene tube, copper wire, the spring from a Biro pen and short lengths of the Biro ink tube.

Here they are after painting and fitting. Like HWE, this is heavily compromised but I think a better attempt than they made. The top of the strut is bent over, flattened and epoxied to the top of the frame. The lower end hangs free and tucks in between the wheel hub and rim. The difficult part is getting the strut length correct so it doesn't foul the wheel and this was achieved by leaving the top keep loose and making trials moving it up and down to find the optimum length.

You can clearly see why metal needed to be removed to get the strut at the correct angle.

With the wheels on I think it passes muster.

On the engine I've added the two pipes and caps either side of the block. Anybody know what they are for?

This is the almost complete rear clam detail. PE grills and rear lights added and the number plate light cover picked out in chrome. I still need to make the locking handles for either side along with one on the front clam. I cut down the moulded plastic ones it came with but they still looked crap, so I'll knock some up from nickel silver.

Still a way to go but I'm getting there.

Cheers,
Peter