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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Next on the workbench for me is the HW Ferrari Enzo. It's been around for a while and can be picked up for next to nothing (or for silly money if you are daft enough) on Ebay. I paid about 20 quid for mine so it's ripe for some butchery and if I mess ig up it's no big deal.

Here's an overview of what I intend to do using the Tremonia Transkit.
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The engine cover grills are mouldings for the two at the back.
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They are also represented on the inside and parts for these are in the TT kit.
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The girls either side of the window are printed onto the clear plastic, but are blanked on the inside by a frame in the cover so you can't see through the mesh. The TT kit does not include parts for these but there's two option I can consider to open them up, which I'll come to later.
Automotive parking light Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tail & brake light Motor vehicle


There's nothing in the TT kit for the "boot" at the front but I'll add some missing details from scratch. I will also thin down the dogleg hinges and paint the inside of the lid.
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The centres of the red tail lights will be drilled out and replaced with perspex rod and coloured with Tamiya clear acrylics. The reflectors lower down will also be added from clear plastic.
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These grills will be replaced with parts from the TT kit.
Automotive tail & brake light Grille Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle


As will the following moulded grills
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I intend to open up all the apertures before fitting the grills which will need a lot of work with drills, dental burrs and files. I don't want to have to repaint this model so I'll wrap it in masking tape before attacking the various apertures. Hopefully any damage to the paint will be minor and can be touched up, but if there are any disasters, then it will be stripped for respraying.

The small indicators on the front wings are only represented in relief, so these will be removed and replaced with suitable plasric lenses.
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The headlight covers are tabbed at both ends so these will be filed off and the covers polished up. The headlight is just a painted moulding so again, this will be drilled out and replaced with perspex rod.
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The engine is quite nice but I'll be adding as much extra detail as I can to improve it.
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Cheers,
Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll be watching this with interest :cool:(y)

Are you going to change the wheels?
I'm not intending to, but why do you ask? Is there something wrong with the wheels that I haven't spotted.
Cheers,
Peter
 

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Looking forward to this build, I enjoy improving cheap models, it’s surprising how much you can improve them with a few small mods like mesh, carpet etc

I recently did up a hot wheels 360 challenge stradale and now think it’s nicer than the silly priced elite version.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So, after much drilling, grinding and filing the apertures in the body casting have been opened up. The ones ahead of the door openings were the easiest to do as there is already a hole for the door hinges.
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The rear aperture was more difficult as it needs a series of holes drilling across its width, followed by a lot of work with cutting burrs in the mini drill to open up the gaps between the holes to produce a "slot" across the width. Then it's down to files and elbow grease to finish off. The PE grills are an exact fit to the backing for the moulded grills, so you need to leave a rim around the apertures for the PE parts to sit against. Despite my best efforts and covering the model in masking tape, I had one or two mishaps with the burrs causing damage to some of the paintwork. I'll touch it up first and if I decide it's not acceptable, I'll have to strip and repaint the whole bodywork.
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The front apertures were much more difficult to open up as the metal is about twice as thick as that at the rear.
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The plastic parts were very easy to do in comparison. This is the lower grill at the rear.
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And the lower side grills. The filed down stub is the remains of the moulded grill. I've left it to provide a surface to glue the PE to. I say moulded grill, but in fact it's just a blank with no detail.
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Here's a view of the front area after touching up the paintwork. It's not 100% perfect, but acceptable to me.
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And the rear.
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Moving on to the engine cover, when the clear part is removed, you can see the printed grill effect, which is blocked out by the very wide rim on the cover.
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The area under the grill is easily removed by making saw cuts top and bottom and then scribing and snapping off.
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Here it is after completing. I've also filed back the remaining area at the bottom as well.
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With the clear part in place, you now have an open grill effect.
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The lower moulded grills were opened up by filing on the inside. In this image the plastic is almost thin enough to push our and tidy up.
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All done and dusted.
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That just leaves the plastic moulded grills behind the doors, but they will be no bother. I had a break from grinding and filing and painted the PE grills. I've made grills for the engine cover as well, but more on that later.
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Cheers,
Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This shows the lower blanked vent on the floorplan before cutting and filing down. The red body part was removed first.
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The printed grills on the clear part didn't cut it for me so I've removed them. The part was masked up first to avoid scratching the "glass". The replacement grill shown in the last post was cut from PE brass mesh. When fitted, it needs to be flush with the outer edges so I've added a flange from 0.4mm brass wire.
Rectangle Wood Tints and shades Gas Road surface


I decided it would be easier to work with something softer , so for the other side I used 0.4mm Copper wire. I used a strip of masking tape to hold the wire in place while I carefully glued it with CA.
Road surface Line Asphalt Gas Tints and shades


For the outer edges I used brass wire again as I didn't need to bend it. Again, masking tape was used to keep it in place for gluing.
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Trial fit with the mesh.
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Cheers,
Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Backtracking a little, I thought it might be interesting to show how the model dissmantles. After removing the base plate screws, the body can be separated. Having done up a couple of Bburago Ferraris, I would say that in general the HW quality of the parts is generally much better. However, it is much easier and quicker to dismantle Bburago models. The reason being that HW use this awful hot melting method to link the plastic parts and attach them to the metal. The result being that every separation requires the end of the melted stub to be chiseled off with a flat blade! Another down side is that where plastic is fixed to plastic the part with the locating hole invariably suffers damage from what ever hot stick they use to melt the ends of the locating stubs. Where the joint is hidden, although sloppy, it doesn't matter, but just look at the mess around the window in the engine cover! It's not easy to see in this image but there's also damage to the quarter light window surround. It's a very poor and shoddy method of assembly, but no doubt it's done for speed. I have one Kyosho model, the Ferrari 250 GTO and having taken that apart, the same crappy method is used on that.
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The rear wheels are removed from the floorplan by simply twisting in opposite directions and one wheel will come loose. The other wheel left on the axle can then be removed. At the front, to remove the wheels you first have to remove two screws from above the steering rod. However, the cockpit end of the assembly is glued to the floorplan with way more glue than is necessary, requiring careful work with a chisel blade to pry the the cockpit from the floorpan.
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There's enough glue there to fix the whole model, so more sloppy work!
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Removing the engine is relatively easy. First the top layer can be pulled off with a little help from a screwdriver.
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It's actually two parts. The air/oil disareator and the five pipes all come off and are attached to the plenum chamber via two studs (not melted for once).
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Removing the screw in the centre of the cylinder head allows it and the exhaust system to come off. There are two melted stubs either side of the silencer to chisel off.
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Finally the sump and gearbox can be lifted out.
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This close up of the cockpit shows how spartan it is. There are mouldings for inertia real seat belt locks either side of the tunnel that will be removed as I'm fitting full harnesses. I wondered what that little gizmo to the right of the tunnel at the rear represents. Turns out it's the cigar lighter. Luxury!
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The seats are glued in with more glue than you can shake a stick at and you can see how hastily it was done with the glue trails visible on the seat on the left.
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Seatbelt locks removed and lots of rubbing down to tidy up the residues from the excess glue. Between the seats on the rear wall was a representation of the storage net, which I've lost in the rubbing down, but I'll replace that with PE mesh.
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With the seats in place only the mid section of the net will show.
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Here's the luggage compartment moulding which contains the radiator fans and headlight housings. On the left I've opened up a hole for the replacement PE grill and fan from the TT kit. This part is secured to the cast metal by four riveted mounts, so you have to drill them out to separate them.
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Gas Bullet


And a test fit of the PE grill.
Motor vehicle Hood Vehicle Automotive design Gas


A trial fit in the body shows that sufficient material has been removed and will not show at the bottom of the "nostrils".
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Finally in this post, here are the remaining plastic parts with the moulded grills removed.

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This is a useful reference source for anybody not aware of it. It's a Ferrari parts supplier in the USA and it lists virtually all the parts for Ferrari's along with exploded diagrams and the names of the parts.


Cheers,
Peter
 

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Wow, great work so far. Agree with you on the Hotwheels glue mechanism. When i did paint my 458 foundation discs and brake calipers, i wanted to remove the interior from the base, but it was so much glued the base started to bend. When i did try to force it a bit more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Many thanks for the kind words gents.

The engine will be a project all on it's own but I had a little dabble to improve the gearbox area. First, those wings were removed.
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And I sealed the back of the engine with plasticcard as it will be visible through the lower rear grill.
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I know the firewall was fully heat shielded but I'm not sure about the floorpan in the engine bay, but I've done that as well.
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I added some bolt and pipe detail to the backplate on the gearbox but it's far from accurate as the plate is not rectangular on the real thing, but will give an impression when seen through the small grill at the rear. I've also made a start on painting the engine, but there's lots more detail to go on.
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The lower side grills are now fitted.
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And I've completed the work on the engine cover.
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Definitely worth the effort I think.
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The front lights are also in need of improvement as the originals are just chrome and painted.
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I made replacements from perspex rod. The indicators were cut and filed from the same rod as the headlight, then painted with Tamiya clear orange.
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They make a big improvement.
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I've now painted the interior and added the storage net between the seats on the front of the firewall. It looks a little slanted in this image so I'll check that. The driver's seat got chipped after painting but it will be covered by the seat belt.
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It's all loosely fitted as I need to add the pedals and touch up some of the paintwork.
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I picked this up on Ebay for a few quid. It's an interesting read with some detail photos I hadn't found on the internet.
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Cheers,
Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Cool! Keep going and adding detail
Glad you like it.
Been reading that little booklet and discovered something I hadn't spotted in all the images I've downloaded, so had to do some back tracking. I thought those two recesses on top of the dashboard were just shelves, but they are in fact openings with grills that allows light to pass into the footwells so the owners can see more of that expensive carbon fibre they have paid for.
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I filed down the back to open up the holes and then fitted some grills cut from PE mesh.
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There's a massive chunk of diecast forming a shelf for mounting the dashboard so unfortunately the owner of this Enzo won't be able to ogle the CF in the footwells. I did mark the metal for cutting but it's about 2mm thick and I decided to pass on that and just paint it matt black. There is a small gap under the grills so they don't look blanked off.
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I've added and painted with clear orange some tiny "jewels" (Hobbycraft) to replace the relief cast indicators on the front wings.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Toy


At the back, I drilled out the painted centres of the tail lights and replaced them with short lengths of 3mm perspex rod. Again, the ones for the indicators were painted with Tamiya clear orange to colour them.
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Here they are in place. I had to replace the TT kit grill behind the gear box as I found it was too short and left a 1mm gap at the top. Again the grill was cut from PE mesh sheet. Exhaust painted dark Matt grey inside and refitted. I've still to add the reflectors which should be red not orange and I'm wondering if I can cut a strip of clear plastic to make the middle brake light above the larger grill.
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The remaining replacement grills from the TT kit have now been added as well. I must remember to paint that screw column under the dashboard as it may be visible with the doors open.
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And the grills behind the doors. I've painted the sill black although on the real car they are just bare carbon fibre.
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Back at the front, I've painted the underside of the bonnet black as well as filing about 1mm or so off the rather thick dog leg hinges. Still not prototypical but better than they were. I could have gone thinner but I was worried about making them weak.

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Cheers,
Peter
 

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Nice work Peter, I really like what you are doing to this Enzo.

My Hotwheels Enzo is from 2002, it was the first version that Hotwheels made. I will also use the Tremonia set to upgrade it and use the Hotwheels Elite from a later date for 3D reference.

Sincerely

Pascal
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Nice work Peter, I really like what you are doing to this Enzo.

My Hotwheels Enzo is from 2002, it was the first version that Hotwheels made. I will also use the Tremonia set to upgrade it and use the Hotwheels Elite from a later date for 3D reference.

Sincerely

Pascal
Many thanks Pascal. From what I've seen of your work, your upgrade will be even better. Hopefully, you will write it up on here. I've added a write up on my Bburago F40 in the Showcase section and any comments would be most welcome.

This afternoon I did a bit more on the Enzo. I removed the tailights again and painted the rear of the added perspex with Molotow Chrome paint. After it was dry I refitted the lights. I think it improves them. I also made the centre brake light and reflectors from thin clear plastic. They were coloured with Tamiya clear red and backed with the chrome pen before fitting.
Car Vehicle Vehicle registration plate Tire Wheel


I've also painted the rear of the front lights with chrome paint so they show up a little better when they are enclosed and light can no longer pass through them. I've now made a start on the engine. Apart from having removed the prancing horse from the plenum chamber, this is how it starts out.
Circuit component Passive circuit component Hardware programmer Electronic instrument Electronic engineering


The first job was to remove the moulded springs and shock absorbers. This is how it looks after much work with the drill, cutting burr, file and scalpel.
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I'm using brass rod as a base for the replacement shocks and I got as far as cutting and filing the brass to fit. The spring will be made from black jewellery wire and the one on the left shows my first trial attemp.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Automotive wheel system Auto part


And to represent the keyholes in the doors, I drilled a small indent after covering with masking tape and marking with a punch.
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Cheers,
Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
For the the shock absorbers I used 2 mm brass rod shaped with the file at either end to fit into the remaining moulded brackets. The spring was made from black jewelry wire coiled around the rod. It looked too small so I wrapped some aluminium tape around it to thicken it up, which then gives a larger spring when the wire is coiled around it.
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Dry fit, I think they look OK.
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I painted the cylinder head covers red for the casting and black for the CF GOP cover. The Ferrari logo was added from PE. Ignition cables etc. added from of mix of insulated copper wire and silone tube. Something thinner would have been better but this was the best I had. The mid section of the exhaust system was wrapped in Al tape and then given a dilute coat of clear yellow, plus copper and a touch of black to represent the heat discolouration. I will give it another coat of very dilute black later, or maybe the Tamiya smoke.
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It took me a while to understand what those cylinders on the wheel arch covers are, which is in fact the tops of the oil coolers, which are out of sight. These were made from brass rod and copper wire with the nuts punched from plasticard. On the right, I will add braided tubing, but the left one is painted copper wire as I don't have any thin enough.
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Still a way to go, but I'm getting there.
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Cheers,
Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Further work on the plenum chamber and deaereator. Fastening clips added from strips of Al tape to the pipes on the chamber and pipes added to the deaereator from 0.8mm black wire.
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Ferrari badges and PE nuts added to the rocker cover, previously painted red and black. Bit of a fiddle fitting these but worth the effort I think. The PE nuts are fully etched out from the fret so there's no need to cut any tabs and file down. The fret and individual parts are on an adhesive backing but still time consuming getting them off and fitting. Extensive use of fine tweezers and cocktai stick is need for adding a tiny drop of CA glue for each nut.
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Support struts from the engine bay to top edge of the cockpit rear added from copper wire and replacement PE prancing horse to the plenum chamber. The top of the chamber should be flat not sloping from each side, but I decided to leave that.
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The ribbon provided in the TT kit is too wide to fit easily through the buckles so I replaced it with thinner ribbon from Hobbycraft. I "opened" the buckle by cutting at one side to separate the lap straps so they could be left on the seat bolster, ready for the occupants to get in. Although easy to get into, I understand exiting the cockpit is a bit tricky, so I can't see the owners fastening the belts after they get out.
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I'd already thinned down the Ferrari script at the rear, but further work was required. I started by masking up with masking tape but it was too thick to thin down as much as I wanted and would snag the file.
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So I switched to Al tape. After touching up and refitting the scrip from PE, it looks OK.
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The objective of the project was to do the upgrade without repainting. However, it's almost impossible to do something like this requiring so much filing and grinding without damaging the paint some where. The paint I used for touching up is not an exact match so the end result is a bit of a compromise, but I'm happy with it. The illumination in the light box is very harsh and exaggerates the difference. I found some suitable cord to make the thinner braided hoses on the left hand oil cooler, so cut off the painted copper wire.
Vehicle Car Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Hood


Anyway it's now completed.
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The heat shielding was added throughout from thin tape sourced from Hobbycraft in sheets. That place is a gold mine of raw materials for modelling and there is a store only 5 mins walk from my house. The tape is a bit like duct tape but thinner. It doesn't look as good as the foil from cigarette packets, but is much easier to use. The square added at the front edge of the tape is to represent the location for the rod used to prop the hood up on the prototype. If I was doing it again, I would spend more time filing down the shelf at the back edge of the window, as it really should not be there.
Vehicle Toy Car Hood Automotive lighting


Although I decided not to use the PE windscreen wiper, I was going to use the pedals. However, after cutting out the parts for the seatbelts, I've managed to lose the remaining fret with the pedal parts. ARGHHHHHH! I've searched the work area high and low but it's dissapears into the aether. It may turn up, but for now I've refitted the plastic parts.
Hood Automotive design Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive tire


Unfortunately, I overlooked to take some photos of the interior before screwing it back together, but the seatbelts can just be seen.
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The side indicator, air valve on the wheel and red painted brake calipers can be seen in this view. I've added the Ferrari script from PE to the calipers but it can barely be seen.
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They are not in sharp focus but this is a better view of the seatbelts.
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Here's the keyhole added to the doors.
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And of course, glazing to the side windows.
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Modified tail lights plus additional brake light and reflectors. The prancing horse is PE as, although the one on the original grill is very nice, it is moulded in relief so not removable.
Wheel Vehicle Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire


It's been an enjoyable project and I hope its has been of interest. The Tremonia kit is excellent and having also used sets 1 and 2 on my F40, I would highly recommend them.
Cheers,
Peter
 

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Beautiful ! I love the concept of turning a simple model into a more detailed version. You also made a huge effort to show the different stages of your work: thanks !
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Beautiful ! I love the concept of turning a simple model into a more detailed version. You also made a huge effort to show the different stages of your work: thanks !
Thank you Rook. Positive comments from a modeller of your skills are much appreciated. You have done superb work on your Porsce 993 GT2. I'm very new to car modelling and the work that guys like you, Wet Cellery and others do is inspirational. I also don't feel so confident when it comes to the painting. I've built steam locomotive in 1:43 scale for over 30 years from etched brass and nickel silver kits and can almost do it blind folded. The painting is a different matter and although my own efforts are acceptable they don't match up to the build quality, and although I prefer to paint my own locos, more recently I've had some professionally painted. With the cars I'll keep trying.

Many thanks to you cwbs as well for your kind words.

Here's a few more images of the grills on the Enzo.

As mentioned earlier, the grills at the sides of the engine cover window are not included in the Tremonia kit, but are easily cut from PE mesh sheet. The hard bit is fitting them flush to the outer edge of the cover and window. Although the grills for the rear of the engine cover were included, I found that they were too small to fit the aperture and had to cut some replacements from the PE mesh sheet. Maybe I opened up the apertures too much but having said that, I did not remove any paint from the edges, so maybe you need to leave a bit of a lip for the PE part to sit on.
Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Red


Here's the grill on the air intakes to the oil coolers. This and all the other grills were spot on fits to the opened up apertures.
Wheel Tire Vehicle Hood Automotive tire


The tiny grill at the bottom is not that visible but still worth fitting. I assume this intake provides cooling to the brakes.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire


This rather cruel close up taken with flash, shows the tyre through the grill as on the prototype. I overlooked to mention earlier, that some of the plastic on the chassis need cutting off to clear the view but is a simple snip with side cutters. Looks like I need to touch up the red down the edge of the grill. I also found that I had to file the front edges of the doors as the fouled the grills which are thicker than the HW stickers as it comes. I just primed the edges and touched up.
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Cheers,
Peter
 

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Fantastic work from start to finish! Well done!
 
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