DiecastXchange Forum banner

How I got DC rims on a Hot Wheels chassis (Guide)

3254 Views 10 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  Low N chrome
ok, first things first: disassemble the car. i dont want to take pictures of me disassembling the car because i'm sure all of you know how to do that. i found with my 645 that the doors and hood had to be OPEN in order for the body to fall thru once the screws are removed. the hinges help "keep" the interior in. you'll know what i mean. just have all the doors and hood open to remove the interior bay.
next, the rear axle had to be cut off my car. i'm a pretty strong guy and i tried for forever and a day long to pull the wheels off the axle, and i couldnt DO IT. it was very frustrating like petet told me, so i said "f it" and i took shears made for cutting metal and cut the axle in HALF.

once the axle is cut, you have to cut the "CALIPER" that is attached to the chassis and helps to keep the wheels in place. this step is needed too.

the front is very easy: remove the "sway bar" (the bar that helps the wheels turn in tandem). the front wheels are held in by two tiny screws, just remove them and you'll FREE a little black "wheel holder". WE WILL NEED THESE PIECES, SO KEEP THEM IN GOOD SHAPE!!!

you will need these materials: your DC rims of CHOICE, 2 small washers, 4 maisto base screws, a drill and drill bits, a dremmel or metal cutting shears

to assemble the DC rims i did this:
1) i found a drill bit large enough to fit the DIAMETER of the back of the "stub" of the DC wheel. i then drilled in the reverse direction where the old Hot Wheels wheels used to be to ENLARGE the holes, so that the new DC wheel STUBS will fit into the newly drilled holes. I DRILLED IN REVERSE first then in the CORRECT direction because it's hard to drill in the correct direction, trust me... or if you can, cheers to you!

2) for the rear, MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT DRILL all the way THRU the OEM "axle holder". it wont make a difference if you do, but drill JUST deep enough so the outer edge of the wheel sits flush with the wheel well of the CAR BODY. just keep on checking the depth and assembling the car body to check the flushness.

3) for the fronts, just drill straight thru because the washers will help keep the wheel from falling out of the housing. IN ADDITION, you will have to cut a part of the chassis where the newly-added screw meets the part of the chassis (wheel well wall). this will allow the screw to pass the chassis body and swivel.

4) I ASSEMBLED THE WHEELS TO THE Hot Wheels front "wheel holder" and rear "axle holder" using the silver MAISTO screws that hold their models to the bases! these are PERFECT!!! but MAKE SURE YOU SCREW THEM IN SLOWLY!!! you may crack the stubs if you screw with an electric drill or too fast!!!

these are the only pictures i have, and i hope it helps. sorry: i dont know how to add awhole bunch of BIG pictures into the post (maybe because i'm only a member?!), but these should show you what you should end up with.

remember: with Hot Wheels, there are no real drilling thru the chassis, and you get to retain all the steering and rolling capabilities of the car! its really that simple. just try it!!!

hope this helps!!!

See less See more
1 - 5 of 11 Posts
View attachment 13119 the first picture was the front, this picture is of the rear...
BY THE WAY...the wheels i used are 1:24 DC TRUCKS. if you plan on USING THE ROTORS FROM THESE CARS, you have to cut the BACKING OF THE ROTOR!!! this will ADD to the "flushness" of the wheels and stuff. Cut the stubs of rotors, and then shave off the rotor backing... it will help...
it rotated downward when i was moving it around...so it's freely rotating, unintentionally though. thanks guys!
1 - 5 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.