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112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
With my HW Ferrari F40 upgrade almost finished, I've been pondering whether to move on to the HW 288 GTO or the JE 330 P4 Berlinetta. Inspired by X-Filer's thread, / I've gone with the P4.

Having earlier upgraded the JE P4 Spyder / I've a fair idea of what is involved. Here's what I'm starting with. It's quite a good example, being in better condition than the spyder was, but I paid more for it.
Tire Vehicle Wheel Car Toy

This overhead shot shows a view of the engine through the rear clam window. There is a cover piece under the glass but it is also clear plastic. The cheapskates at JE just covered it with a red sticker which I'd already removed earlier. The rolling wheels are also unpainted, but surprisingly the spair wheel is painted gold over chrome plating!
Vehicle Grille Car Hood Automotive lighting

Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive design

First job was to dismantle the model into its components. Here's the front clam.
Green Vehicle Motor vehicle Red Automotive lighting

And the rear with the unpainted engine cover on the left.
Light Automotive lighting Red Font Motor vehicle

And everything else.

Photograph Green Guitar accessory Musical instrument Motor vehicle

Having poured over many P4 images lately, I note that the slides for the door window openings are clear perspex not metal as represented by JE. That will be easy enough to remove as will the rivets on the frame of which there are far too many and they are too prominent. I may go with a rivetless frame as in many period images, the frames look smooth.
Rectangle Gas Metal Fashion accessory Automotive lighting

I'll be doing quite a lot of butchery on the Mazak/Zamak, so I'll be completely stripping the paint, but I decided to kick off with removing the screw columns and opening up the various vents cast in relief. First screw column removed with a slitting disc in the mini drill.
Bumper Motor vehicle Line Automotive exterior Wood

Having learned from experience working on the spyder, it's much easier to open up the side vents if the metal is first thinned on the inside with an abrasive wheel until the vents start to show. They can then be drilled through from the outside and finished off with a suitable cutting burr. However, as I'd recently broken my burr I had to use a 1mm drill bit, which is abuse of the tool, but as I had significantly thinned the clam wall, the drill was up to the job without breaking.
Wood Red Tool Material property Natural material

Eventually, you get this.
Hood Yellow Line Automotive exterior Bumper

As well as the sanding wheel I used some round burrs in the mini drill to thin the metal on the inside. For cleaning up the slots after opening, I ground smooth one side of a small file. This allows for a better fit and also avoids messing up the upper face of the lower slat, when filing the under side of the upper one.
Wood Line Material property Art Pattern

Here I've made a start on removing the screw columns on the lower casting.
Wood Material property Gas Motor vehicle Rectangle

And done for now. More work will be done to tidy things up after the paint is stripped.
Creative arts Triangle Art Red Wood

Here's the front clam after cutting and grinding.
Pet supply Bicycle part Material property Composite material Gas

I've also removed the fixing loops from the rear edge and will replace with some brass rod to make them less obtrusive when viewed through the main air intake.
Rectangle Tool Automotive exterior Auto part Carmine

I also opened the small vents in the leading edge of the clam, but I'm not sure they bring much to the party.
Motor vehicle Car Automotive design Red Automotive wheel system

I couldn't use the sanding wheel on the lower body casting to thin the metal on the inside, but the small round burr did the job just as well.
Green Wood Red Rectangle Tool

Toy airplane Vehicle Aircraft Toy Red

On the spyder I removed the unprototypical clam hinges and replaced them with scratch built brass items. On this one I'm keeping them but I've thinned them down as much as I dare to hopefully make them look a little better.
Vehicle Automotive lighting Car Hood Automotive tail & brake light

That's about 5 or 6 hours work with the mini drill, but the bulk of the butchery is done and all the metal parts are stewing away in a polythene bag coated in paint stripper. Next job will be to clean off all the gunk and get the parts back to bare metal.


112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So after an overnight stew in Nitromors, this is how the paintwork looked. After scrubbing with a brass brush, most of the paint was removed as per the lower body casting on the right.
Automotive tire Tire Font Pink Motor vehicle

Here's the rest of the parts after receiving attention from the brass brush. What paint remained was then attacked with a circular steel brush in the mini drill. Note the two paint samples at the bottom. The one on the left shows no signs of a primer on the underside, while the one on the left appears to have a white primer under the red top coat. These samples came from different castings and in the main, it would seem that the top coat was applied directly to the metal without primer. Maybe the guy in the paint shop cut some corners to increase his through put and perhaps earn a bit more money.
Wood Wall Art Font Sandal

Having stripped a few of these low end diecast models, it is clear that before painting little preparation of the castings by way of removing mould lines etc., was carried out. So removing mould lines and other surface imperfections is required. As well making a start on that I also opened up the remaining vents on the rear clam. I'll add a strip of brass under the holes offset from the clam to give the impression of being a vent. The rivets on the model are way too prominent and not all the rivets that were on the prototype are represented, so I've decide to remove them all.
Bicycle handlebar Automotive design Bicycle part Steering part Bicycle saddle

Here's the cockpit after removing the rivets and tidying up the joint between the upper and lower castings.
Wood Rectangle Bag Fashion accessory Leather

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive design Hood Cutting mat

At the back end the inner edges of the two boxes intrude into the aperture in the clam.
Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Hood Trunk

This is due to the uprights either side of the cross beam, so these had to be removed.
Wood Table Water Material property Rectangle

After attacking with the razor saw and file we get this.
Wood Rectangle Tints and shades Wood stain Hardwood

Which gives an unobstructed aperture. I also drilled out the cast relief rear side lights which will be replaced with items made from perspex rod.
Table Automotive lighting Bumper Motor vehicle Wood

I'm dispensing with the overscale and unprototypical locking clamps on the front clam as well as removing excess metal on the locating flanges in front of the fuel fillers. Here the one on the left has been removed with the slitting disc in the mini drill.
Bicycle part Eyewear Bumper Motor vehicle Automotive exterior

The various holes no longer required have been plugged with rivets made from copper wire. Short length of copper wire were placed in the holes, then hammered flat against the anvil before rubbing smoth.
Wood Automotive exterior Bumper Auto part Metal

Here the holes in the front clam have been plugged and rubbed smooth.
Fender Bicycle saddle Personal protective equipment Bicycle part Metal

I had to be a little creative with the anvil to be able to fill the holes in the cockpit.
Wood Gas Tool Engineering Machine

Here the cockpit holes have been plugged and the support flanges cut back.
Cutting mat Wood Bicycle part Font Auto part

As have the holes in the rear clam and support frame.
Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Bumper Vehicle

Some filing of mould lines has also been done but there's more work to be done.
Wood Fender Tool Material property Vehicle

The state of play so far.
Car Motor vehicle Hood Toy Automotive design


112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yesterday, the 5mm round cutting burr I ordered arrived in the post. Up till now my largest round burr was 2.2mm, which is a bit slow when removing large chunks of metal such as these screw column stubs in the rear clam.
Tool Wood Door Line Gas

After about three minutes of grinding they're gone and all that remains is the debris on my apron. I wish I'd bought one of these bigger burrs sooner as it doesn't half shift some metal. I ground off the casting pips while I was at it.
Automotive lighting Rectangle Gas Automotive exterior Font

Back with the smaller burr, I ground a groove down the middle of the rear side vents to add the support strut. I wanted to give the impression that the metal is thinner than it actually is when viewed from the outside.
Auto part Metal Automotive exterior Bumper Carmine

And with a strip of brass fixed in place with CA.
Musical instrument Helmet Wood Bumper Motor vehicle

This is the backing plate for the two oval vents on top of the clam at the rear, scratched up from brass strip and wire.
Rectangle Road surface Wood Amber Asphalt

And after fixing with CA.
Hand Wood Flooring Gas Tartan

I've seen the backing plates painted black up on many models, but I believe they should be red.
Bicycle part Composite material Tints and shades Fashion accessory Strap

With the work on the vents etc completed I was able to epoxy the lower and upper clams back together.
Home appliance Bicycle part Gas Plumbing fixture Fender

I've already removed the casting mark behind the vents to get a smooth profile and later I'll get to work eliminating the the joint line between the two castings.
Hood Grille Automotive lighting Automotive design Bumper

This view of my upgraded P4 spyder after painting, shows the improvement the work in this area makes to the model.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Hood

Moving on to the front clam, I've added replacement loops of brass wire to the lower fixing and made a "flexible " backing plate for aligning and strengthening the joint between the upper and lower castings. It needs to be bent in two planes and the saw cuts help to facilitate this.
Wood Tool Hunting knife Knife Everyday carry

Here's the backing plates epoxied to the upper casting. When the epoxy had cured I was the able to bend the individual segments of the plate to match the curvature of the lower casting.
Wood Musical instrument Fashion accessory Flooring Sandal

And after joining the two parts with epoxy. The lamp housings had previously been fixed in place with CA and filler.
Musical instrument String instrument Creative arts String instrument accessory Wood

Before joining the two castings, backing plates of thin brass sheet were glued over the superfluous screw holes and then filled, as were the screw holes for the wing mirror shrouds which I won't be using.
Creative arts Auto part Fashion accessory Bag Natural material

I may need to add more filler to hide the holes in the wings, but I will know better once the primer is on.
Composite material Natural material Fashion accessory Comfort Pattern

The headlight cover will be fixed on the outside rather than inserted from the underside and the lens will need some fettling to achieve that.
Composite material Gas Wood Auto part Bumper

After plugging the windscreen wiper fixing hole and rubbing down, some filler was needed to fill the witness marks left by the file.
Wood Bicycle part Rim Tool Spoke

Earlier I painted the wheel and sanded off the Dunlop branding from the tyres. I've still to add the air valves and of course the Firestone script and gold line to the tyres.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Wood Motor vehicle

I also made a start on the engine detailing by drilling out the intake trumpets and adding some metal flanges cut from cord end bootlace ferrules.
Wood Gas Bullet Flooring Metal

And I made a filler cap for the oil tank. The moulding at the front which is part of the throttle mechanism will be removed and replaced.
Guitar accessory Musical instrument String instrument accessory Musical instrument accessory Bullet


758 Posts
Darn, that's so much metal work I got dizzy! You're a metal worker, aren'tn you Peter? To have so much skill and ease working with brass and hogging off metal like that they're not just modelling skills, are they? I appreciated particularly what you did on the intake trumpets, it's never crossed my mind to use shoelace ferrules as trumpets! Aren't they usually made out of brass or some yellow metal like that?

112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi João,
Sorry to disappoint, but I worked all my life in the chemical industry and for the last 30 years before I retired I was in sales, so I didn't even get my hands dirty. I guess I'm just naturally gifted. 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂

Only joking of course. Although I'm new to diecast car upgrading, I've built model locomotives from PE kits for over 30 years, so I've learnt a few things from building models like this.
Train Wheel Vehicle Rolling stock Track

The ferrules are not from boot laces ( why they are called bootlace ferrules, I have no clue!). They are from the electronics industry and they come insulated and non insulated. These are non insulated and the metal is copper plated with tin or maybe chrome. From my time in the chemical industry I know that copper wire is often tin plated from a medium containing phenol sulphuric acid, of which I sold tonnes of, so they are most likely tin plated. Here's a link to where I got them on Ebay. They come in various sizes and I got the smallest (4mm2 x 10 mm).

They will be perfect for exhaust pipe ends and I've used them to make the surrounds for the smaller tail lights on the P4 which I've made from 3mm OD perspex rod.
Capsule Medicine Wood Table salt Salt

The perspex fits inside the ferrule and the ferrule into the hole in the casting. Do they look good or do they look good? I given the perspex a couple of coates of clear red and they look even better. They will of course be added after painting.
Wood Tool Everyday carry Personal protective equipment Hunting knife

I'll be doing another update on today's work later or maybe tomorrow.


Ps. How are your two P4s coming on?

112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So, with my P4 head back on.

These are the new tail lights after a couple of coats of Tamiya clear red. The ferrules are 10mm long and to cut them down, I spin them in the mini drill leaving the length I want protruding from the chuck. I then hold the razor saw blade against the ferrule and it quickly and accurately cuts through. Watch they don't ping off into the aether though. I wear a watch maker's apron when working to keep all the crud of my clothes and it's great for catching small parts when they drop.
Flooring Floor Road surface Material property Pattern

I'm also considering totally replacing the intake trumpets with ones made from the bootlace ferrules. So far I've made one, which is a bit tedious, hence the reason I'm hesitating before making another 11.
Chair Flooring Road surface Floor Asphalt

It's not perfect but better I think than the existing ones. Any comments? Do you think it's worth the effort to make 11 more?
Road surface Rectangle Wood Grey Flooring

I've decided to add the bolt on spoiler seen on some P4s. First I put some masking tape in place and marked the curvature of the top edge in pencil, before cutting it out to make a made a template.
Cutting mat Musical instrument Gun accessory Automotive exterior Composite material

This was then placed on a sheet of 10 thou brass and a groove parallel to the edge scribed with a scrawker. When working with brass sheet I scribe the line on both sides of the metal to allow for easier bending and snapping. You can do this with relatively thick brass sheet as long as you scribe both sides. It could of course be done in plasticard but at 10 thou thickness, brass is more robust. Anything thick would not look so good.
Wood Rectangle Line Table Material property

Most of the excess was then removed with scissors and the final shaping to match the template done with a sanding wheel in the mini drill.
Hood Wood Asphalt Road surface Floor

Tire Bumper Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood

Holes have been drilled for fitting dummy fastenings after painting.
Musical instrument Guitar accessory Musical instrument accessory Wood String instrument accessory

Plus holes have been drilled in the casting for adding dummy fastenings to the side wings.
Grille Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design

On the front clam, a whisk of primer showed that it needed more filling and rubbing down to hide the screw holes from the wing mirror shrouds. I'm happy with it now and have added the new wing mirrors and central splitter to the main vent at the front. For increased strength I added short stubs of copper wire glued into holes drilled in the resin casting before fitting to the wings.
Automotive design Wood Peripheral Fender Material property

I've set them quite high to suit my own preference rather than a particular car.
Automotive design Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Rectangle

This is the splitter made from brass.
Road surface Wood Rectangle Asphalt Flooring

And after fitting. I've seen images showing the edge of the splitter flush with the front edges of the lips on the vents, but early photos as originally built show it set back as I have fitted.
Hood Vehicle Automotive design Motor vehicle Wood

I've now drilled and tapped M1.0 holes in the body to facilitate fastening the front clam with with M1.0 screws. The screen wash jet represented in relief has also been removed and a hole drilled for fitting a separate jet after painting. The holes in the clam have been recessed to allow the screw heads (which have also been thinned) to sit lower.
Motor vehicle Automotive design Helmet Metal Bag

Not perfect, but better I think than the overscale non prototypical plastic clamps provided be Jouef.
Gas Bag Automotive lighting Personal protective equipment Auto part

The support for the rear clam on the chassis, had a lip which protruded beyond the edge of the clam. It should match up so I've filed it down. It's an awkward shape to hold so I screwed it to the edge of the bench while I worked on it.
Gas Circuit component Electronic component Auto part Audio equipment

Now it's flush fitting.
Hood Automotive design Bumper Motor vehicle Electronic instrument

Many thanks for all the likes.



256 Posts
Nice work Peter !

If you want to add the rivets I recommend using Archer rivet decals. For the front and rear clam screws, I think I'm gonna use the smallest diameter pins that I can find, they're tiny on the real car :

Chassis 0856 :

Chassis 0858 :

Photos from Ultimatecarpage.com, for reference purpose only.



112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you Pascal.

This image of 0858 also from Ultimatecarpage.com, shows a hex bolt and washer fitting for the add on spoiler as well as a flange on the upper face of the side wings.
Vehicle Car Automotive lighting Hood Automotive design

I've added the flange from brass strip and the fixings from brass rivets. I have some very small hex bolts and washers that I will use for the spoiler. I've also added a flange under the side wings at the front and have punched the rivets into the brass from the rear before fitting. I've added the window early because the fit was not so good and there were some gaps that I wanted to fill and can't do that after painting. I polished the window on both sides before masking off and fitting with epoxy.
Automotive lighting Bumper Tints and shades Automotive exterior Personal protective equipment

Sorry about the crap image.
Grille Automotive lighting Hood Automotive parking light Motor vehicle

The clam window moulding included a part matching the aparture at the cockpit rear. I've cut this off and will make a window for the cockpit.
Automotive lighting Hood Rectangle Wood Tints and shades

Automotive lighting Hood Fluid Amber Liquid

It needs more work on the gap, but I'll get to that later.
Luggage and bags Communication Device Bag Gadget Telephony

I am aware of the archer rivets but have never used them. In steam loco construction from PE kits, in many cases the rivet pattern is half etched from the rear and the rivets are punched out in the flat. They can of course be punched into virgin brass and I have a tool for accurately and consistently doing that. Where rivets cannot be punched from the rear, I've always drilled and added them either from brass wire or using small rivets as I've done in this case.

On the matter of rivets, as you know, the JE model only represents the line along the side of the fuel tanks and around the b pillar. They are also way too prominent, as they are, in my opinion on all of the higher end models of P4s. Compare this image of the GMP model taken from the internet, with the one you posted. Although the Archer rivets may be a good way to produce a more accurate representation on the P4, I'm going to pass on that and go with a rivetless option. With that in mind I may rub down the rivets on the door window frames and the frame on the rear clam window.
Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle Automotive lighting

Having said all that about the rivets, I'd still love to have a GMP version, but when they come up for sale they are way outside my price bracket. It will be good to see what you do to your P4 when you get around to it, so hopefully you will write it up on here.


256 Posts
Nice work Peter,

There's a flange on the bottom and top of the side wings. Makes sense because the side wings are one-piece that screwed on the body. I'm gonna use copper tape, or alu tape or foil to cover the side wings, so that it will look like a single piece.

I was lucky to find a black GMP 330 P4, the black ones are normally cheaper because Ferrari never made a 330 P4 in black. When I start modifying the GMP and Jouef 330 P4, I'll make a WIP journal here. Won't be for the near future, still have a lot of work to do on the F40's, the 333 SP and the Porsches.



758 Posts
Great progress as always, Peter!

I honestly didn't know those pieces were called bootlace ferrules, I've purchased some before from Légende and I've used them before as intake trumpets or exhaust tips. I didn't use them on my case cause the trumpet's flare wasn't as pronounced as I'd like and just went for the simplest solution as I showed on my 330 P4 topic. The solution for the rounded trumpets you indicate, although not completely accurate, may very well look better than the original piece, no doubt!

The solution you encountered for the secondary taillights is really great! Looks awesone and I would've never figure that one out. How did you make the reflector back side of the light, chome paint or aluminium tape? Real cool!!

As for the lip spoiler, I'm doing mine from plasticard and I have to admit it's indeed a bit too thick (although after sanding it off quite a lot brought the thickness to bareable limits and I'm sticking with that).

This image of 0858 also from Ultimatecarpage.com, shows a hex bolt and washer fitting for the add on spoiler as well as a flange on the upper face of the side wings.
View attachment 262961
I've struggled quite a lot on finding refference photos of the rear of that precise chassis at the 1967 24 h of Le Mans (which is the configuration I went for, racing cars are meant to be "dressed to race" and not plain). All I could find are low res photos that aren't all that clear but as much as I could figure out, I don't see any washers on them, although I think it's logical to use them in order to prevent the aluminium sheet from sheering off after repeated use and load.

Tire Wheel Vehicle Trousers Car

Vehicle Bus Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle


112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Many thanks Pascal and Joao.

I see what you mean about the side wings. I will add some filler and smooth and hopefully give the impression of a continuous piece.

I agree, racing cars should be decorated and I admire modellers who endeavour to get all the details just right to represent a specific car at a specific time or race. The difficulty can be finding the right references to confirm a particular detail and although there were only a small number of these cars, there are a lot of subtle differences. I am the same when I build steam locomotive, which in some cases can be more difficult as most locomotives were in service for 30 years or more and made many visits to the works for servicing and repairs. Having said that, with the cars, I prefer them plain in all their naked beauty.

On the trumpets, the ends of the ferrules can easily be widened by placing flange end down on an anvil or hard metal surface. It's only copper and a few careful taps on the other end with a small hammer spreads them out, which is what I did to make the ends for the trumpets. I'm still undecided whether to make replacement trumpets.

The photo you post of the P4 being refuelled is interesting. I've seen images that suggest the inner face of the oval vents at the rear are red, but they are clearly black in your posted images. Also the lack of safety measures is incredible considering they are hand pouring the fuel. One guy in an FR suit surrounded by press photographers!

At the moment, the tail light don't have a reflector at the rear, but I will paint with Molotow chrome before fitting. The perspex rod is really good for making lights as it is crystal clear and after cutting and sanding smooth, polishes clear again very easily. I have a number of different diameters sourced from Ebay.


112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I made a start on improving the engine. This is what I did to my JE P4 spyder engine. It was my first attempt at upgrading a diecast model car and I am quite pleased with how it turned out. However, I've done a few more since then so I hope to do better on this one, particularly as I can pinch a few ideas from X-Filer, who has a P4 build thread ongoing at the moment.
Circuit component Passive circuit component Hardware programmer Electronic engineering Engineering

Cutting mat Circuit component Electronic component Electronic engineering Jewellery

I'll be taking a similar approach but also adding the fuel injection lines and and throttle detail a la X-Filer.
The main block is separate from the gearbox which is in two parts. As on the spyder engine, I'm joining the upper gearbox half to the block. The lower half will screw to the rear framework/suspension and the complete engine will fit to this and be held by a screw. To increase the surface area for adhesion to the block, I added a piece of 60 thou plasticard to the front of the gearbox.

Wood Flooring Hardwood Metal Fashion accessory

And then fixed it to the engine block with epoxy.
Wood Rectangle Fashion accessory Metal Composite material

The hole for the fixing screw has to be drilled in the upper gearbox. The lower gearbox has a column (on the right below) for a locating peg in the upper half which is lost when the hole is drilled. A self tapping screw is then screwed into the column. The hole on the left is where the gearbox is screwed to the chassis.
Wood Flooring Floor Gas Pattern

The engine block below exhaust level is not modelled by JE. What block there is, is attached to the rear of the fuel tanks at either side. These I separated.
Wood Vehicle Flooring Motor vehicle Metal

Then made the lower block/dry sump from plasticard.
Wood Rectangle Window Tints and shades House

And then epoxied it in place. I then added some plasticard overlays to give a little more detail although it's very simplified, with the sump bottom plate being cut from the under body panel moulding and glued to the bottom edge.
Wood Musical instrument Toy Office equipment Gas

After cutting a slot in the overlays with the PE saw blade above, I added a strip of brass to represent the webbing.
Toy Wood Lego Motor vehicle Toy vehicle

I then added some short lengths of brass rod to represent the fixing bolts on the sump bottom.
Wood Vehicle Metal Motor vehicle Machine

Some hacking of the framework is required for the lower block to fit. I've also removed the axles from the uprights as they make it a real PITA fitting and removing it. Ultimately the axles will be on the gearbox.
Wood Font Toy Metal Engineering

And with the block screwed on . The screw will be hidden by the spare wheel.
Wood Aircraft Machine Scale model Metal

To add the ribbing to the small oil tank between the trumpets, I wrapped it in lengths of 0.4mm copper wire. Holes have to be drilled either side for the two inner ribs.
Wood Font Metal Chocolate bar Fashion accessory

To get a tight fit for glueing with CA, the wires are twisted underneath and after gluing, the excess is removed with side cutters.
Circuit component Material property Wood Rectangle Copper tape

Here it is placed on the engine after the wire over the filler cap had been trimmed. I've now remove the moulded throttle pivot as I'll be making a more detailed item from brass.
Wood Air gun Trigger Gun accessory Gun barrel

Although the lower block is very simplistic, it should give a better impression when viewing the engine bay with the clam propped up or removed.
Wheel Tire Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bumper

So, on to the fuel tank detail. I used the existing end plates as a template to make replacement from plasticard. The curved top part was scribed onto the pencil outline using a spring bow compass. On the P4 spyder I did these in brass but it is much easier and quicker to work in styrene.
Wood Water Floor Flooring Space

The parts were then cut to shape . It took me two or three goes to get the height right by scribing the curve lower down and cutting. Glad I decided to use styrene!
Water Font Wood Space Circle

Whoops! I'm up to the max of 20 images so I'll have to continue in another post. How time flies when you're having fun.

112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The cross beam on the upper body casting also has to be cut back to allow the modified engine to fit in. It needs to be cut further back than the frame so as not to show beyond the rear parts of the fuel tanks. A couple of blanking plates have been made from plasticard to hide the screw columns either side. I see the one on the left need some adjustment.
Green Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior

These are the tank parts after the new plates have been added. Holes have to be drilled in the plates and the ends of the brake cooling ducts to allow the brake cooling hoses to fit. A length of styrene rod has been glued into the ducts to mount the hoses.
Wood Material property Art Jewellery Motor vehicle

The dry run looks good.
Green Motor vehicle Hood Toy Auto part

And with the wheels on. With spyder upgrade I added some additional struts to the uprights but there are possibilities to add more to get a better result, which I'll be doing.
Green Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Automotive design

I've also been trying out the bootlace ferrules on the exhausts. To get a better idea of how they will look I gave one side a quick whisk with the ceramic coating (white primer). Originally the exhausts are joined with a cross beam that slots into the top of the engine under the trumpet part. I've separated them to allow for easier fitting later in the build.
Cutting mat Wood Pattern Art Wrist

Hand Textile Finger Art Creative arts

The ferrules are joined to the exhausts with styrene rod and when fitted, the joint will be out if sight under the covers at the rear.
Finger Thumb Wood Nail Chemical compound

I've still to add the U shape pipe that loops between the two main pipes towards the front end of the gearbox, for which I'll use copper wire.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Wheel Engineering Automotive wheel system

And finally for today, these arrived in the post this morning from Indy Decals in the US. Hopefully I can get them on OK, but if not my plan B will be to use a stencil for the lettering and draw the line with a spring bow pen, as I did on the spyder.
Tire Product Wheel Automotive tire Wood

This is what I did on the spyder. Not bad, but I'm hoping the Indy decals will do a better job. I wonder if anyone on here has used them and what sort of results they achieved?
Wheel Rim Art Cutting mat Gas



112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I didn't have a lot of modelling time today but still made some progress. I've added a sheet of brass to represent the floorpan at the rear of the cockpit plus I've extended the firewall down to floorpan level, again in brass.
Wood Creative arts Cutting mat Metal Pattern

And viewed from the front.
Wood Cutting mat Fashion accessory Metal Plywood

Most of the mods to the rear of the fuel tanks has been done as well and I've added the small tank to the right hand side along with the forward part of the brake cooling duct and the "trumpet" on top of it. The inner faces of the rear of the fuel tanks has still to be added.
Toy Wood Creative arts Pattern Nail

And the same story on the right hand side.
Creative arts Wood Art Toy Space

Some filling and smoothing of the brake cooling ducts is required to tidy up the joint between the moulding and plasticard additions.
Wheel Tire Car Automotive tire Vehicle

The mounting for the distributors is in the wrong place and prevents fitting the throttle control and fuel injection, so they will be re positioned when I get that far.
Tire Wheel Green Toy Hood


112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
As is my want, I have jumped ahead of things and applied the Indycals decals to the tyres. They don't come with any instructions so I wasn't too sure if there was any special application method for applying to "rubber" tyres. I gave the tyre sidewalls 2 coats of Zero paints clear and left them for a few days. The decals need to be cut from the sheet and as the tyres are black, it doesn't matter if you cut into the black edge a little as long as you stay clear of the gold. In fact it's better than being a little wide of the edge as then the clear carrier film will show. The outer edges were cut with embroidery scissors and the inside with a fresh scalpel blade. I used a little Humbrol decal fix in the water and applied neat to the tyres with a brush before adding the decal. I think I read somewhere on the Indycal website to cut the decals in 2 or 3 pieces for easier application, so I cut the first one in 2. I found it difficult to line up the two halves perfectly, so I tried the second one whole, with no problem, so the rest were done the same. Here's one waiting to be applied after a soak in the water.
Green Drink Beer Ingredient Metal

The set comes with 8 decals, so you can apply to both sides of the tyres if you wish. I decided to just do the outside only so that the spare could also be done. I'll give them a coat of clear matt later when I've re read up on the website what it says about suitable lacquers.
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Back on the metal bashing, I've made an overlay for the firewall to give an impression of the tubular chassis frame, made from brass sheet and rod. I scribed a line for the position of each tube based on images of a MFH build found on the internet. Here's the first one tack soldered in place.
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And after completion and test fit to the firewall.
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I've still to add some mountings for the tubes that will run to the suspension and I will spray it separately in aluminium, then brush paint the tubes black before fitting. Not much will show either side of the engine, but I hope it will improve the overall impression of the engine bay.
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758 Posts
Darn Peter, you sure are showing how it's done correctly! Big kudos for that!! Those intake trumpets look awesome and that firewall including the chassis tubing is amazing, Great, great work!!

112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thank you X-Filer and Stratos.

I've given the tyres a coat of matt varnish and added the air valves. After checking on a spare decal I found that Humbrol matt did not degrade or dissolve the decal, even though on the Indycal website it suggests avoiding enamel. The one on the right is not very smooth as I had a bit of an accident spinning the tyre in the drill to rub off the Dunlop branding and scuffed up the tyre wall. Try as I might I couldn't get it smooth so this wheel will be the spare. Other than that I'm really pleased with the result and would highly recommend these decals.
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The mounting for the distributors is in the wrong place so I cut it off. Replacements were scratched up from plastic rod and tube with 0.5mm soft cable for the plug leads.
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And ready for painting. At the bottom is the fuel i injector. All three are mounted via brass pins located into holes drilled in the block.
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After studying @X-Filer's work on the the fuel injection along with photos of the real thing, this is my impression made from plastic rod and brass with the fuel lines from clear plastic "wire". I tinted the lines with diluted Tamiya clear yellow before fitting to the injector.
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Here the parts have been painted and fitted, with the throttle rod still to be added. I've covered the hole where the coils were mounted and made good the flange as I won't be using the JE parts.
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Here's a view from the front before the fuel injection was added.
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The throttle rodding was added from brass rod and the trumpets and base fixed in place.
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The trumpets have been painted with Molotow chrome paint and the heat shields for the exhausts made from nickel silver sheet. Not correct I know but I decided to add the coil leads from red 0.5 cable, purely for the aesthetics. I've seen some images where the gearbox is gold so I've painted it with Tamiya Titanium gold.
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I polished up the nickel silver exhaust shields before fitting so I won't be painting them as I think they look the part as they are.
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Additional piping added to the exhausts.
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And trial fitted to the engine.
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The gearbox has been drilled to accept a length of brass rod for the rear axle.
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I've added the missing lower part of the bell housing from plasticard, so the strut ahead of the rear suspension mount has be cut off to allow the engine to fit.
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I've decide not to use the plastic rear panelling behind the engine and have scratched up a replacement from 10 thou brass sheet.
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Strips of angle brass have been solder to the lowere edge to give some surface area to glue the structure to the rear frame.
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The dry run looks good.
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And with the spare placed on the top edges. Proper mountings, hooks and bungy cords will also be added.
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112 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks Robbo.

Further work on the spare wheel area has seen the frame tubing added along with the front mounting for the wheel.
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I believe the the tubing was supplied by Campagnolo as were the wheels. On the model I've used 1mm nickel silver rod.
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Following that I scratched up the rear mount for the wheel and added the eyelets for the bungee cord hooks , as well as the mount for the coils and the coils themselves. All soldered construction apart from fixing the coils for which I use CA glue. This joint is reinforced with a brass spigot fitting into a hole in the mounting plate.
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And trial fit to ensure I can still get the frame unit in now that the coils are on.
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Th coil cables are a push fit in the brass tube at the top and will not be permanently fixed until much later.
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Here are some views with the cockpit and spare wheel in place.
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Here's a comparison of the original rear section and the replacement.
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A quick view with the clam on and raised. Still lots to do in the engine bay area, but it's already looking much more business like.
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With the clam lowered. The added metal ends to the exhausts make a big difference. I see I've overlooked that short screw column between the exhausts, so that will be meeting up with the slitting disc soon. It also need more work on the gap between the upper and lower clam castings, before I prime it.
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