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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A couple of years ago I bought one of these (photo from the Looksmart website) :



They cost way more then I want to spend on a 1/18 model, but I got the opportunity to buy a damaged model.

Mini looks like this (don't mind the total mess on my desk) :

The floorboard is broken into 5 pieces :





The rear wing is broken into 6 pieces and the body is broken in half in front of the windshield :





The damage will be repaired.

But before I start the repair, I want to share my view on this model :

It looks nice, but the way Looksmart made it, is just dumb.

This model costs at least € 260, given the amount of resin that they used to build it, I'm not surprised with it's high price.

The resin is over 5 mm thick in some spots, that makes the model very heavy.

It would have been a lot easier to use a metal plate for the floorboard, covered with a thin layer of resin with all the details for the underside.

It would also make the model a lot cheaper and less fragile.

To sum it up : I'm not impressed.

This is supposed to be a high-end model, but when you take it apart it's just a poor designed and bad assembled lump of resin.

The body does look nice, but small details like the exhausts, should be metal tubes, not plastic ones that don't have enough depth.

It comes with a very nice display case, but that's not enough to justify the price.

So, no Looksmart for me. This model isn't worth it's high price tag.


Enough rambling, next update will show the repair.

It will be interesting to fill and paint the cracks in the body, we'll see if it will be a success or a disaster.

Sincerely

Pascal

The amount of resin is ridiculous.
 

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Hi Pascal,
You're on the wrong forum. This is Diecast Exchange not Resin Cast! 😂 😂 😂

I look forward to you working some magic on this pile of cross linked chemicals. Let's face it, it can can only look better. Apart from being fully sealed and the high price, it does look impressive when in one piece

Cheers,
Peter
 

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Looking forward to see the end result!

This model costs at least € 260, given the amount of resin that they used to build it, I'm not surprised with it's high price.

The resin is over 5 mm thick in some spots, that makes the model very heavy.

This is supposed to be a high-end model, but when you take it apart it's just a poor designed and bad assembled lump of resin.

The amount of resin is ridiculous.
I'm no resin expert, but I'd say they make it thick on areas they know are bound to break under stress (torsion, impact, etc), to try and avoid exactly what happened to that model. Didn't work out well for that one, though...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here we go.

I've glued the parts together, then did a number of dryfits that showed why this model is fragile.

First : there's the resin that was used. I breaks in certain areas just by looking at it. I've - gently - picked up some pieces and parts of resin just broke off.

Second : the model is fixed to the base plate of the display case with very large screws and plugs. They are screwed in so tight that you can hang in on a wall and the model wouldn't fall off.

Third : the big blocks of resin don't fit well enough to each other to give support.

But enough talk, time for some photos.

The floor board was broken into 4 pieces. This is the rear area, you can clearly see where the glue has sipped from the cracks :



Front :



Rear inside :



Front inside :



You can see that I've started to sand the areas where other resin parts will sit. In other areas I will do the same to glue reinforcement strips in weak spots.

This is the firewall, a huge lump of resin that requires a lot of sanding to get it flat :



Some plasticard pieces will be used to fill the gaps, again to get the parts to fit better and to give some more strength to the assembly :





To give an idea on how much resin was used. This is the dashboard, 5 mm thick :



And the engine bay, 19,7 mm at the front, 30 (!) mm at the back :





Is has some nice details, but almost everything is simply painted black, turning it into a black hole. I will add some color in the engine bay later :



The body has also been glued together and a first layer of filler was applied :





Of course there are far better ways to apply filler than the way I did it. But I wanted to use a white filler because my Motip brown colored filler will show thru the yellow paint.

The white filler I used is quite soft and can be sanded easily. During and after the sanding, I put on coats of Tamiya Extra Thin glue to give it some extra strength.

So there we go. Work has started on the resin-glue-bomb.

Sincerely

Pascal
 

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I'm intrigued & looking forward the build!!

Yeah, taking a resin model apart is never nice to see, by that I mean that they are so crudely put together!! If they weren't so limited (in some cases) you'd think they cost much less!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The result of the repairs is about 50/50.

After a first couple of rounds of puttying, filling with paint and polishing it looks like this :



In this case macro photos are a good thing, they show where I need to do some more polishing.





The left side looks a little bit better :





But at this stage, I'm starting to wonder if it will be possible to repair the paint.

I'll keep trying and if I doesn't work, I'll have disassemble and respray the body.

Not looking forward to that, because some parts might (correction WILL) break.

In the meantime, I started adding some details to the engine bay. First some color :



Then some extra details :





It took a lot of work to get from this :



To this :



The shitty looking rubber hose will be replaced by one I made with the lathe :



Added some cables to the firewall, some more work will be done on the top half :



Not a lot will be visible when it is assembled (dryfit) :



The wing proved impossible to glue together without something to give it extra strength. I used needles, but they are visible on the top of the wing :



Ah well, let's say they add some character :



It's shame that the needles aren't in exactly the same spot, but with the naked eye, it's just passes inspection.

It was the only way to get the supports to fit without making a new wing. The fit was terrible and it was badly glued, even before it broke :



At this point, I'm nut sure what I will do with the wing. I may leave it as is, or sand of the tops of the needles and paint the wing black.

The real car has no carbon fiber on the wing.

So the next couple of days (weeks) I'll decide to keep the yellow body with carbon fiber wing, or finish it like this one :



But with some black details on the sides and front of the body.

Sincerely

Pascal
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The rear lights came off without any problems. The front headlights are a different story : they were glued deep inside tons of resin and I basically had to force them out with scalpels and screwdrivers. The left side only broke into 3 pieces, the right side into a lot more. A lot of repair work will be needed.

The paint on the body is strange. I used my tried method and brushed some Dot 4 brake fluid on the body. Only the clear coat and some of the yellow base coat came off. Underneath the yellow base coat, there's a white primer that becomes soft by using the brake fluid, but stays very sticky.

I'm going with 2 options :

1. Sand and polish the body without removing the yellow base coat, and use the yellow base coat as a sort of sealant to spray the grey primer and red paint. I will use a Motip spraycan, that paint will attack the resin if it doesn't have a primer or sealant.

2. Use a strong paint remover that will be aggressive on the resin, but will remove all the coats.

I'll do some testing tomorrow and will post some photos tomorrow or sunday.

Sincerely

Pascal
 

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Hi Pascal,
So far this project seems to be all pain and no fun. Probably a stupid question, but could you not have left the headlights in-situ and masked them up for the repainting?
Cheers,
Peter
 
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