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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok i just started getting into models i got this 1:25 Fast and the Furious Mitsubishi Eclipse. I also got this Testors candy green paint it looks real nice(I've been testing on other past failed models)but I've been having problem like air bubbles and all the paint running to the lower parts of the model and sitting there making a big lip. help to fix this would be appreciated.
 

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If you have paint running down the sides, you are applying the paint too thick and heavy. It's better to use several light coats until the base is coated than one heavy coat. . . By the way,
to DX!!! :happy
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks man. I know know not to add just one coat ive added like 2 so far, but I think I know what you mean I'll try not to add so much paint at once. Thanks.
 

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I assume that you are using a rattle-can? Usually when I get bubbles, is when I need to clean the nossle on the can. You can soak it in paint thinner and then blow it out by putting on a can of air (electronics cleaner) to blow out the junk. If it does not fit the can of air, use the small straw attatchement. Or let ir air dry.
Good luck and make sure you post pics!
BTW, Welcome to DX! :cheers
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ey thanks, yes im using a rattle can. I mean I get air bubbles on the body when the paint is dried when its drying I don't see them...
 

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Another cause for paint to do that is if you are using a primer that is not compatible with the paint, like an acrylic paint on top of an enamel primer or the other way around. Sometimes paints and primers from different brands do not get along even thus they are both enamels and you have to start over.
 

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A few painting suggestions-

1. Make sure you strip all the old paint off the diecast with a good stripping product (I use an aerosol can from Home Depot), and make sure you clean all the stripper off the diecast with hot water so that there is no residue. Hint - do not use paint stripper on plastic parts, if you do, they end up looking like Dali paintings, all drippy and stuff.

2. Use a compatible primer, do not paint directly to the diecast. Spray on light coats of primer. Make sure the primer color is compatible with the paint color you are going to use. You can get primer in both grey and white.

3. Spray on several light coats, not one or two heavy one's. Don't be concerned if the first couple of coats have thin spots in them, paint has a way of eventually covering. Move the model around and spray each subsequent coat from a different angle. I paint mine with the body sitting properly, then for the next coat, I will put it on its roof to make sure I've got the bottom of the car properly covered. A couple of rotations like this will ensure consistent coverage.

4. I bake my models in the oven after every coat, including after the primer coats (I also actually bake them after the stripping/washing phase, to make sure that all the water is out of the little nooks and crannies). I pre-heat the oven to about 250 degrees F, and then cook each model for about 10-15 minutes, then turn off the oven and let them heat soak for another 10-15 minutes, and then let them air cool outside of the oven for another 10-15 minutes. If you are using masking tape, for a two-tone scheme, let the car air dry a little, and remove the masking tape before baking (lesson learned the hard way).

5. This approach may take longer than you want, but if you want the paint to hold up, and look good, take your time. Baking your models (again, diecast only, no plastic in the oven) will let the paint work, and even if you have a slight overspray, or orange peel, the heat will help the paint relax. All 1:1 vehicles are baked following the application of paint, why shouldn't diecast?

Good Luck, and let's see some pictures!

:cheers
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ey, thanks for all of your tips guys I'll try and get pic's but my computer for some add reason is being stupid, I'll try and fix, thanks for tips
 

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One thing I forgot to add - If you run the rattle can under hot water for a few minutes before you spray, the heat will thin the paint and make it easier to get a lighter coat.

Also, after you spray, to avoid having the nozzle clog, turn the can upside down and hit just a shot. This will send propellant (the solvent in the paint can) through the nozzle and clean it out.

Again, Good Luck, and I think I'll have another -

:cheers
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey all, I finished painting and it looks great now im gonna start on the rest of the build up, any tips for making the paint job look good using a brush help would be appreciated.
 
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