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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had about an hour before I left today, so I am close to finishing the paint job on my first 1/18. i am just testing them out to see how different they are from plastic kits. I primed it as normal, with about 3 good coats. I did not strip the paint from the original model, which is a lambo sv by the way. that leads me to my first question, what is a good paint stripper to pour on a car to ....well....strip the paint? I just put the first coat of gloss black paint on today, and just finished the second coat. I pretty much covered all of the car, but i need to wet sand it now to get some depth to it. this is my second question. what grit sanpaper is good for wetsanding the primer coat, and the the final coat?
i am using cheap paint to test out with, which is testors from wally world. i did not have time to go to my hobby shop, so this had to make due. thanks for any help.
Joe
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
ok, for some weird reason i cannot make the words blue. it feels naked!!! i will have to fix that later

ok, i fixed it!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sanding -

Personally, I like to use "no sanding required" primer. Even though the manufacturer stated that "no sanding required, it's always a good idea to sand it anyways. As for what grit of sand paper to use, I'd like to use 400 at this stage. As for the paint stage, I'd like to lay down a few coat of paint first. I'd let it dry for a few days, then I'll use 600 grit sand paper to smooth out the paint surface. As for the clear coat stage, I'd like to use 1000 grit sand paper. After all surfaces are sanded throughly, I'd use fine automotive polish to get rid of scratch marks. After that, I'd put a coat of good wax on all freshly painted surfaces.

As for what type of paint to use, I would suggest you to stay away from those spray paints from your local auto stores. It's design for 1:1s. It lays down a fairly thick layer of paint regardless of how careful you are. I'd use model paints from Testor or Tamiya. They are designed for models. They will do a better job. Ultimately, an airbrush with very fine spray pattern is the best of everything.

By the way, if you need to mask anything, please make sure you purchase excellent masking tapes. Those cheap 1 dollar a roll would cause more problem than you really want.

Good luck! :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Louis,

Thanks for you input,


where do you buy your masking tape, as Ise the cheap stuff and it seems to be harder to tape everything off than actually painting. :?: :cry:
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for the tips!! i was at wally world again today, a new one i found actually, and stopped in to see about the sand paper. they higher no finfer than 320, so i stay away. i guess i will have to hit a car store or hobby shop.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Louis,

Thanks for you input,


where do you buy your masking tape, as Ise the cheap stuff and it seems to be harder to tape everything off than actually painting. :?: :cry:
Hobby and craft stores. They usually carry at least a few kind of masking tapes there. The ones you want are thinner, flexable, and strong. I'd like to use ones specific for plastic models. Just make sure the edges are firmly attached to the surface before you spray the paint. By the way, these type of tapes are usually 5-8 dollars per small roll. It's a good idea to use it along with some cheaper tapes to save some dollars (i.e. expensive for the edges and cheaper ones for the center). As for where to get 400 grit or above sand papers, most auto stores carry them. I am sure you can find some at Home Depot as well.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
As for tape go to a body shop supply ( Finishmaster's) and get the good tape fine line for stripe's as for the painting if the surface isn't bad you can scuff the original paint and paint over it.
Or you can scuff it and prime it then spray away if you use no sand primer wet sand till smooth will 400 then 600 is how I do it :oops: :sm:
 
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