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UPDATE 31/08/2019

Back onto the model today and I did some work on the chassis by cutting out the tops of the wheel wells front and back. This will give clearance for the tyres to sit up a lot higher.

Next I cut off the front and rear of the floor to make way for the new LB front and rear diffuser

Floor fitted back into the body and you can see the wheel wheels opened up. After I finish all the body work, I will get the Dremel out again with the metal cutter and remove the original diecast wheel well a few mm more so the tyre can sit even further up under the new wide fender.



Next I made a card template of the lower lip of the front bumper

I then cut a piece of 3mm plastic sheet from the template

Next I used a piece of 5mm x 5mm square plastic rod for the center pillar of the bumper opening. I rounded the edges a little, but will still have to use some putty to finalise the shape. This is just used as a structural leg to join the lower lip to the upper diecast body.

Lower plastic splitter and center leg super glued in place

I then cut and glued the little up turned end plates. Once the glue dries, I can fill and shape these



I then used some fine line tape run along the bumper body line, and sanded out the underside to that line with a radius at the top under the line as the real car has a scolloped out shape here



Revised all the back edges and adjusted the angle edge on the right side of the body, sanded and primed again to check results

Now with the primer on, you can see the scolloped out shape under the body line.

Still more work to do on the opening, and then I have to build the back shaped vents and fins

I had to assemble the model again to have a look, these are not the final wheels, MIY is making me the correct set of Forgiato Dieci-ECL's for this model, but overall, I am really happy with how this is turning out. Can't wait to paint the model after all this body work, but i have to wait for the custom decals that TK is making for me.



Way more to go. Thanks for looking. Cheers
 

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Is this a new LB kit Rob? A few of their recent kits also have the low set rear wheel flare so I was wondering. Going really well btw!
Yes Wes, this is Liberty Walks new 'Silhouette GT' kit for the Ferrari and they are making a similar style kit for the Lamborghini Huracan. Just google it, there are pics online for both. Thanks, progress is good but I am going to take a break for a week on this one for now.
 

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Are they tuned in any way? I thought it was just bodykits and air suspension?

Anyway, superb craftmanship, I love watching you sand, lol.
They have exhaust systems which give a power increase, and i have read that they have other performance upgrades like ecu flash tunes, filters, etc. Thanks, I'm glad you are enjoying my sanding, lol, I'm over it. That's why I'm having a week off on this model. I'm sanded out!
 

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UPDATE 13/09/2019

Some more progress on this model too today, I repainted the stock HWE brake calipers yellow and I found these metal caliper face plates out of the parts box

I then cut and trimmed the metal face plates and added them onto the calipers. I then added some Ferrari decals to those plates just like the real car. I am using the stock HWE rotors too as I think these look pretty good.

Now a few last final skims of Tamiya filler where needed in preparation to paint the body.



I also added some Tamiya 2 part filler to the center rib of the front bar. I will let this dry and then final sand it to shape.

And while I was clearing some other parts today, I sanded and flow coated the rear carbon engine surround again to give it a super glossy, wet look

More to come. Cheers
 

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UPDATE 14/09/2019

Just some final adjustments to the body today so I can get the body into primer. Sanded the center leg of the front bumper, and the other little putty additions as well.

I needed to take more out of the sides of the front bumper, so again I used tape on the sharp body line and sanded using paper on a round tube to get the top concave shape shape and flat sanded under that

Gaps in the top rear of the fenders sanded smooth and a bit on the nose

I then had to mark out the angle of the fender join line which runs at the same angle as the back of the head lights

I then used my Tamiya fine cut saw to cut the line

I then went over the whole body with a 3M fine sanding sponge to smooth all the Tamiya primer

I then got the Dremel out again and ground away the original diecast arch and some of the new putty as well so that the tyre will sit up under the wheel arch lip

All arches cut away on the inside

Gave the body a blow down and wiped it all clean with some wax and grease remover, then primed it in white 2K surfacer / primer

Doors, engine lid and hood sitting in there to have a look. Looks good in white, but the model will still be painted in Rosso Corsa red

Next step is sanding all the body and then time to paint. More to come, Cheers.
 

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I do like your methodical and thought out process of scratch making bodywork, I’ve always done it by eye with nothing more than strips of sandpaper and the odd needle file. Might take a leaf out of your book for the next one, the paper templates will save a ton of time
 

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Thanks Pete, I just found that it gives the basics for the layout and shape. I used to just sketch the lines on the body and go from there, but this is not always the most accurate. It helps too if you can find side view pics of the model you want to copy, luckily there are a ton of Liberty Walk cars on the web, so pretty easy to find and scale the pics to make the templates.
 

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Looks great, soooo much work going into this.

That saw is interesting, do you have any saw-tips? I have been planning to get some photoetched ones for ages, just never get around to it. Tamiya the best brand for this?
 

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Looks great, soooo much work going into this.

That saw is interesting, do you have any saw-tips? I have been planning to get some photoetched ones for ages, just never get around to it. Tamiya the best brand for this?
I just put some tape on the edge of the cut line, then steadily use the saw to cut the line following the edge of the tape getting deeper each pass. The saw I have is a Tamiya fine cut I think from memory, I have never used any other brands, but this seems pretty good. When I built the Ferrari 333SP model and cut the front diecast section off the body, I used this same saw, still cuts well after many cuts in diecast and plastic sheet.
 

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UPDATE 15/09/2019

Well today I am painting the body, but first, after I sanded all the white primer, I found a couple of little areas that needed a dab of putty, so I just used Tamiya putty, let it dry, sanded it and touched up the sanded areas just with Tamiya white primer (spraycan) as this can still be painted over with the 2K basecoat. I found this from past models, so It is a quick way to keep moving forward on painting day.
3 light coats of Ferrari Rosso Corsa 322 basecoat, then 2 light coats of clear. I was a little light on the doors as they look a little orange peely, but I have to add the door decals and re clear again, so it will be fine. I will let this dry for 24 hours, then mask up the body to paint the roof in black basecoat, then add all the decals, let that dry again for 12 hours or so, then final clear the body and doors again to cover all the decals. This body was a bit of a challenge to paint as it was quite hard to get the color and clear in between the wide fenders where they are spaced of the factory diecast fenders. Here's the results of today's painting.









My first batch of custom decals sheets from TKdiecast arrived which have the missing decals I needed for this build, All the other are for upcoming builds and just stock for the parts box

Next I got all the decals I need for the body trimmed and ready to go. I am a little OCD

As the donor model for this build was the China Edition 458, it has all this red carbon on the interior parts.

This is the simple part of the build to just paint the door cards matt black, and the red textured carbon just gets a coat of Tamiya gloss black enamel. Not bothering too much about the interior (it's acceptable) as this model is all about the bodywork

More to come, but I'm on the home straight now I think. Oh, wait, I still have to make all the aero parts and rear diffuser, and still waiting for my custom wheels to arrive from MIY. Cheers
 
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