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UPDATE 16/09/2019

Today I masked up the body so I could paint the roof black. I just sprayed a couple of coats of black base coat, this still needs to be cleared at the same time I re clear the body tomorrow

Roof painted and all the masking removed

And all the body decals added on the sides of the body, the doors and the rear bumper. Tomorrow I will re clear over all this with another couple of light coats of clear. More to come.


 

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UPDATE 17/09/2019

Luckily, I gave the body the last 2 coats of clear this morning when it was nice and sunny to seal in the decals, because as I am writing this post, it is pouring with rain, something we have not had any of for almost 2 months (Australia is in drought) Really happy with how this came out and so far it looks like no dust in the finish at all. I am being really careful not to handle it as it is still soft. I will let this dry for a few days until I work on this again. Here is today's results. More to come.






 

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UPDATE 25/09/2019

Tired of sanding on the other builds, so I decided to make a start on the assembly of this model. First I started by refitting the rear mesh grilles and started on all the matt black paint outs. The rubbers, under body and door jams

I then fitted the head lights back into the body, these required a fair bit of sanding on the underside to get them to sit right as I am always a bit heavy with the clear to get a good finish.

Before I glued the lenses in, I used a black marker on the edges to simulate the rubber and give it a better look. I saw this by another builder on this forum. Always learning!

Most of the matt black paint outs done on the interior of the body

Head light lenses glued in place and the rest of the matt black paint outs done.

Tape removed from the lenses and they sit nice and flush. I used my NEW favorite glue for clear parts, the Micro Kristal Klear

Carbon hood sitting on to have a drool

Quarter windows glued in place, roof lining and engine hatch fitted

Carbon engine surround glued in place.

More to come soon. Cheers.
 

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Great stuff! I've not tried that glue before. I might have to get involved.
 

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Great stuff! I've not tried that glue before. I might have to get involved.
It's really good to use Craig. It is water based so you can apply it, push the part in place and any excess can be removed with a damp que tip. After using some masking tape to hold the part in place, it is dry after about 15 minutes. No fogging like superglue and it appears to be very strong. I am starting to use it for other parts now too.
 

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HUGE UPDATE 26/09/2019 (26 pictures)

Day off work today so time to get most of this model assembled. First I glued in the rear tail lights and the rear window and side mesh pieces too.

Tape removed, love the Microscale Kristal Klear glue



Floor/interior pan test fitted to see the engine in it's home.

I forgot to grind out the underside of the front wheel wells so the tyres have more clearance to sit up under the fender, so I wrapped up the body in a clean cloth, then got the Dremel out and ground away the metal on both sides

I would have liked to remove more metal but I was not game now that all the body is painted and I have started re assembling the model. I will be able to cheat a little by trimming some off the top of the tyre so it sits higher up. This is not the wheels I am using, just testing how much tyre sits under the fender lip.

Sits pretty low, but I want it to sit another 2mm lower if I can get it that low.

Just test fitted the stock HWE windows held in by some tape as I had an idea for some new windows the other night watching tv

Used some masking tape to make a template for a full window. There is a slight channel in the top of the window frame in the bottom edge of the roof, I used that gap to trim the tape to.

This is my idea, since a flat piece of clear acetate or plastic will not work as the window has to have a slight curve in it, I thought hey, maybe I can use the plastic from a 2 litre drink bottle as this is round. This is a Pepsi bottle and the plastic looks pretty clear after i washed out the bottle and removed the label.

Here is the stock window on the left and a piece of the bottle cut out on the right

I then put some masking tape on the bottle and traced the stock window template on it

I cut it out with some scissors and this is sitting in the slot behind the door, pretty close so far

Tape removed and this looks like it is going to work.

Not glued in yet, and I still have to sand the top edge and see If I can polish out some scratch marks in the plastic. This is going to be the hardest thing to find, part of the bottle that does not have any scratches in it.

Both side windows and the front window sitting in place.

Rear interior window screwed back in and the dash board screwed back in

I needed to clearance the front cargo tub as the outer sides of the new vented hood were fouling it and not sitting flush

Hood sitting on and fits great

Front cargo tub glued into the body

Front window glued in and taped until the Kristal Klear glue was dry

Wipers glued on and you can see the white Kristal Klear glue, this is still wet but it dries fully clear

Custom window banner decal added, thanks again to TKdiecast for all the custom decals fro this model

Hood glued in place, again I used the Kristal Klear

BBR Ferrari side Scuderia shields and front nose emblem decals fitted. I love these, they are such high quality decals with a chrome metal edge like the real emblems

And this is where I'm at today. I still have to make all the aero parts, rear wing, side fender mesh inserts, and still waiting for my custom 3D printed wheels from MIY, but overall, not that much to go to finish this model. More updates to come. Thanks for looking. Cheers
 

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Awesome work Rob, on the home straight now.

Great stuff! I've not tried that glue before. I might have to get involved.
It's really good to use Craig. It is water based so you can apply it, push the part in place and any excess can be removed with a damp que tip. After using some masking tape to hold the part in place, it is dry after about 15 minutes. No fogging like superglue and it appears to be very strong. I am starting to use it for other parts now too.
[/quote]

Better than the Bob Smith super-gold or just for different applications?
 

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Great stuff! I've not tried that glue before. I might have to get involved.
It's really good to use Craig. It is water based so you can apply it, push the part in place and any excess can be removed with a damp que tip. After using some masking tape to hold the part in place, it is dry after about 15 minutes. No fogging like superglue and it appears to be very strong. I am starting to use it for other parts now too.
[/quote]
Good to know... glueying windows with cianoacrylate glue is always tricky!

For the rest of your build, no words man, you are an infinite source of informations, methodologies and knowledge!!!
 

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Lovely work as always. Love to see a build after a short break and during that time it has transformed completely
 

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Great stuff! I've not tried that glue before. I might have to get involved.
It's really good to use Craig. It is water based so you can apply it, push the part in place and any excess can be removed with a damp que tip. After using some masking tape to hold the part in place, it is dry after about 15 minutes. No fogging like superglue and it appears to be very strong. I am starting to use it for other parts now too.
[/quote]
Cool! I use Revell Contacta Clear, which yeah dries clear. You have to put it on both parts that you wish to glue, then leave it till it's tacky. It's a bit of a pain waiting for it to fully harden once you have the part in place.
 

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Great stuff! I've not tried that glue before. I might have to get involved.
It's really good to use Craig. It is water based so you can apply it, push the part in place and any excess can be removed with a damp que tip. After using some masking tape to hold the part in place, it is dry after about 15 minutes. No fogging like superglue and it appears to be very strong. I am starting to use it for other parts now too.
[/quote]
Cool! I use Revell Contacta Clear, which yeah dries clear. You have to put it on both parts that you wish to glue, then leave it till it's tacky. It's a bit of a pain waiting for it to fully harden once you have the part in place.
[/quote]

I never got on with it & found it left marks on the windows. Probably my fault for using too much etc..
 

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UPDATE 29/10/2019

Thought I better get a move on the finish this model as only 4 weeks to go and still a bit to do. Started back on the model with the front splitter. Cut out the shape out of 1mm plastic sheet and same with the sides

Superglued the side plates to the flat piece. This glue works really well on plastic sheet

This is how it sits under the front bumper



Next I have to make the front bumper vents, these are 3 dimensional so just starting by building the structure out of plastic sheet

This is how the front vent structure fits in behind the bumper



Sanded all the front splitter up and added all the rounded edges to the plastic sheet and then added some grey primer to see where i'm at

More to come. Cheers.
 

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Thanks Giovanni, you will see what I am building below, it is the vent section that fits in behind my custom front bumper

UPDATE 30/10/2019

Made a start on the rear wing today and I am using a Hobby Design wing blade from an LB Aventador kit. I had to heat this up with the heat gun to soften the resin and bend it back straight as they always have a bow in them. I then made the end plates out of some 0.5mm plastic sheet

I then glued the side plates to the blade with superglue

And after making a couple of sets of wing legs, I got the shape I wanted to match the real car as close as possible

I then glued them onto the wing blade also

This is how it will sit on the car. I still have to make some side brackets at the base where it joins to the body. This will also give me a bit more surface area for a good glue bond

Some grey primer on it to get a better look. Has to be painted red, carbon blade and cleared

Now back onto the front bumper air duct assembly. I cut out the openings from the solid faces and cut another piece to build up the back section so it is flush with the opening

Next is the air divider blades, made out of 1mm plastic sheet, shaped the front curvature then bent them to a curved shape

After some measuring and scaling, glued them into position



Next I glued in some inner pieces to form the inside shape

This now forms the main structure of this assembly. Once this dries solid, I will add some tamiya putty and start to round the inner nose area to form a curvature of the ducts. Once this is done, it will be painted black and then carbon decals applied (that's going to be fun - NOT)

This is how it sits in behind the bumper



More to come. Cheers
 
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