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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, I want to thank and acknowledge Ben V. who is a regular contributor over on Scale18. His advice and guidance were invaluable in getting this conversion done. After sending me instructions on how to do this, he was kind enough to follow up and send me a correct sized shield for the rear section (after he noticed the Patto's decals weren't quite large enough). Ben is a true gentleman and a credit to our hobby.

I ordered my car from Scale18 (can't say enough about Kevin and Irene - they are the best in the business). Luckily my car had full Rothmans markings under decals on the sides. I say lucky because these would be the hardest decals to apply, requiring a few cuts first. I'll include Ben's instructions for doing this at the end. Ask your dealer - they may be able to tell you in advance if the sides of the car are marked to save you some work. Some cars came with the "R" on one side and the "s" on the other with the "Racing" decal applied over that. I suspect this is because the doors were done separately.

I used decals from Patto's Place in Australia. I ordered the "Super Quality" set which includes a white underlay and, in this case, the gold markings for the shields to give a better (shiny) finish. I'm told the decals from Orphan (which only includes the ones needed for the conversion - Patto's is a full set) are thicker and easier to handle but the crests appear "flat".

Patto's decal set.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Decal Removal
To my knowledge all the cars came with a full "Rothmans PORSCHE" tampo under the "RACING PORSCHE" decal.

Before pic of rear wing:
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I used a door opening tool I got with a Classic Carlectables model to burnish down a piece of packing tape.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I discovered the entire rear wing (RACING PORSCHE) is a decal, not just the word “RACING”. Half done – have to remove the rest now. These come off pretty easily.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
For the rear shield, I taped over half of it and it peeled right off. I did this because the stripe runs underneath the shield (the stripe decal is clear under the shield) and I did not want to damage it (the stripe that is). The Patto’s set includes the stripes if you do.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The sides of my car had the full ROTHMANS markings underneath the RACING decals. To remove use the same technique but be careful of the surrounding decals - like the stripes. These did not come off as cleanly as the others requiring some fingernail scraping and a bit of NPR.

 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Important Step
The decals are very fragile so they must be protected to give them some strength before application. Patto's suggest using Future Floor polish, Ben suggested Microscale's Liquid Decal Film. I used Tamiya clear acrylic X-22. Brush on slowly to avoid bubbles and allow these to dry overnight.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
One of the things I discovered is that the decal Patto's Place provides for the front is not as wide as the original. The ROTHMANS in this pic should extend as wide as the word PORSCHE on the car. Therefore, I had a choice to make:

Replace both and have them the same size, but not as wide as they should be.
OR
Simply replace the RACING with Rothmans and live with the mismatch

I opted for the latter. A bit of a bummer, but I don't think it detracts too much in the overall result.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Decal application
Patto's instructions are very thorough.

When using the Super Quality decals you can use one of two techniques:
1) Apply the top decal to the background, then (after drying) apply the compound decal to the car.
2) Apply the background decal to the car, allow to dry, then apply the top decal.

I used technique #2.

Use plenty of water (I used a 50-50 mix of water and decal setting solution) on the area the decal is to be applied. Blot with an old T-shirt.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That's really all there is to it.

For the sides it's a bit more complicated. Here are Ben's instructions:

"To apply the side Rothmans, I cut the decal as close to the lettering as
possible. Then I laid it dry on the side using a groove in the body as a
reference for the bottom of the decal. Center it between the number roundel
and the rear wheel opening. With the engine cover off, I traced the shape of
the opening onto the back of the decal and cut the decal apart.
I applied the decal and when it had dried enough, I sliced the decal through
the door opening with a new razor blade."

After they dry, protect them with a coat of acrylic and you're done!

Here are the results.



 

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:nicejob :nicejob :nicejob
Great step by step instructions!!! Nicely done, the model looks GREAT!!!

Duc
 

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Very good, Richard! I'm sure this walk-through will be an asset for all of those who want to make their Rothmans more authentic-looking. In fact, I don't have the car but your instructions will come in handy for me on a future project of mine. :cheers
 

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<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right]
You've go me motivated to look for Gauloises & Marlboro decals for some of my MotoGP bikes!!! Any ides where to find some???

Thanks!
Duc
 

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<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right]
A quick search of the internet pulled up these:

LINK

He has the Gauloises & Marlboro and many others!!! Price doesn't seem too bad either.

:cheers
Duc
 
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