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Testors makes a sandpaper kit, for model builders, should be available in most hobby shops. I has grits down to almost nothing (almost a polishing grit) that I have used to salvage plastic windows with.

Also, we used to use BlueMagic "Plastic & Plexiglass Cleaner" to remove scratches and rock chips from the lexan windshields of the race cars I used to race.

As a matter of fact, what I do is use the sandpaper, and then finish with the Cleaner. Make sure you do it evenly, as the repaired section may look shinier than the original area. Once I get the scratch taken care of, I use the Cleaner on the entire windshield, much like a polishing compound on an automotive paint finish, to even out the surface across the entire piece.

Good Luck!

:cheers
 

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Depending on the depth and size of the scratches, you could completely correct it by using a tip from the plastic modeling community. Apply Future Floor Finish to the part in question. It will flow in and hide all the scratches and the windshield will be even clearer than before.

Typically the part is dipped into the Future and then set on some absorbent paper to soak up the excess. For a diecast this means having to disassemble the car, which is not usually possible. In theory, you could probably brush or airbrush on a coating, but you'd have to have some way to channel and soak up the excess. I haven't tried it myself but will if I find some time in the next while. Nice thing about Future is it removes completey with water if it hasn't dried yet, so you could experiment and rinse off under a tap. If it has dried it can be removed with rubbing alcohol.

Worth a try?
DYW
 
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I have read were many plastic modelers use future for pretty much everything.

Mostly using it as a clearcoat for painting.

considering how hard it gets, I could certainly see it being used to seal a deep scratch.
 
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I agree with using the Tamiya Polishing Compund. Depending on how deep the scratch is, I recommend you use the "finishing" compund first.
 

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I would try this method first. I haven't tried it on clear plastic, but I airbrush Future on all my motorcycle kits I build. It's a very forgiving product to use and clean up is easy.

Good luck!
Sean
 

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Hi Sean, could I ask if you use any special techniques when airbrushing with Future? I've only done it once or twice and have not been very satisfied with the results. I tried it straight first, and it went on uneven and I ended up with too much coverage because I tried to even it out by putting on more. Then I tried thinning it, but only with water (maybe that's my mistake?) but again coverage was uneven. Granted I this was a test and I was "Futuring" right over the original finish on an old Maisto 550, which may have been part of the problem as I didn't do any surface prep such as fine sanding. Since then I just dip the part if I can.

The reason I was thinking of clearcoating some diecasts with Future is because some of the older models have decals that crack and peel. I figure sealing it with Future would help to prevent this.

Thanks,
DYW
 

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Sure! No problem at all!

Parts Prep - The parts were painted (I've used future on acrylic & enamel paint) and decals applied. I used lint free cloth dampened with a little isopropyl alcohol and gave the pieces a quick rub down to remove any dust that had settled on them. Careful with the decals when doing this!!!

My Setup - I have an older Testors airbrush and use a Medium tip. Air is provided via a small Campbell-Hausfield compressor ($100 @ WalMart) set at 20 PSI. I also have a water trap ($20 @ Sears) installed. Not using a water trap will introduce moisture that is naturally in the air and will mix with the medium you are spraying and that can have an adverse effect on the outcome.

I use Future straight from the bottle - no thinning needed. I mist it on holding the airbrush about 12 - 18 inches away from the part. Using a side to side and up and down motion, slowly spray on the Future getting all angles and surfaces. After a few passes - it will start to look like water on a freshly waxed car. When you get to this point, only one or two light passes are need. If you happen to over do it a little and put a little too much on, keep the lint free cloth handy. Immediately after you notice it, touch the excess build up and it will absorb into the cloth. Be careful to bring the cloth just close enough to suck up excess.

Clean Up - Just run a bunch of warm water through the airbrush&#8230;that's it!

I've had it happen where I didn't notice a drip/run and when it started to dry, it turned white inside the drip that had formed. I thought I was screwed and had to start all over. So I walked away and came back a couple hours to find that it dried clear and barely noticeable!!!

Future is the most forgiving clear coat that I have ever used. I highly recommend it (no stock owned in the company :giggle ).

That's about it! Good Luck!
Sean
 

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Darrick,
Great idea! Done, as requested!

:cheers
Sean
 

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Someone in another thread on removing scratches in clear plastic windows recommended using Brasso, a liquid metal polish for silver, copper, gold and brass. I haven't tried it but it seems better than toothpaste, a finer grit. That tip on using Future to restore winshields and protect decals sounds good to. I'm going to try that on some Gulf Oil decals I had custom made for a blue and orange Jouef-Evolution '66 Ford GT.
 
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Years ago, I had a small tool company catering to model builders called Dr. Microtools. One of the products we offered is a set of polish cloths with a rubberized surface. To demonstrate this product, I would sand in a canopy with 200 grit until it was flush, then return it to perfectly clear. I have seen this same product used for motorcycle windshields. Blue Magic is a great final polish.
 
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