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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is this the best technique to strip a model

remove all plastic parts

put model in container with stripper

clean with wax or thinner when done

is there a particular brand of stripper which I should use?? the subject to be stripped is a maisto

how long do i leave in stripper for and do I have to do it @ a certain temp??
 

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Here in the States, we have a product called JASCO Premium Paint & Epoxy Remover that works like a champ in easily removing the factory paint. It washes off with water and is biodegradable so you can wash the parts in the sink. However, it is caustic so you should wear protective latex gloves when working with this stuff.

I would imagine that you should have something comparible in Oz.

I wouldn't use wax after the stripper because you might have trouble getting the primer to stick to it. Thinner should suffice.

Residence time for the stripper will vary, but I've left it on overnight (at room temperature) and most if not all the paint literally falls off by then. Catch the rest by using an old toothbrush in the door lines and other recessed areas.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ok, would mineral turpentine be ok to clean up the model after stripping??
and would a plastic ice cream container be ok 4 the container to do the stripping in??
 

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ok, would mineral turpentine be ok to clean up the model after stripping??
and would a plastic ice cream container be ok 4 the container to do the stripping in??
Yes, and yes. However, make sure you read the directions on the stripper container for the final word on the matter. Mineral spirits should be fine to clean up the metal. If the stripper is water based, make sure the model is dry before hitting it with the turpentine.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
my technique for stripping models usually starts of with dinner and a good bottle of wine.............say no more

 

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Hi there all. I used to use a stripper that was like a jellie that you painted on, but it was very messy. I now use a spray can stripper that I got from a hardware store. I can strip a model of paint in under 10 minutes! You just spray on the stuff (in a well ventilated area, over old newspapers etc...) and the paint just bubbles off. You can then clean it up (some parts might still need a bit of scrubbing) and then clean it with turps when it is dry. It is very quick and easy to use. The one I have is made by Selleys.

Peter
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
my technique for stripping models usually starts of with dinner and a good bottle of wine.............say no more

sound like more fun than what VR and RW are talking about :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
I knew this thread wasn't what it sounded like. :cry:
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nocky said:
Hi there all. I used to use a stripper that was like a jellie that you painted on, but it was very messy. I now use a spray can stripper that I got from a hardware store. I can strip a model of paint in under 10 minutes! You just spray on the stuff (in a well ventilated area, over old newspapers etc...) and the paint just bubbles off. You can then clean it up (some parts might still need a bit of scrubbing) and then clean it with turps when it is dry. It is very quick and easy to use. The one I have is made by Selleys.

Peter
I just used some Klean-Strip Premium Stripper (aerosol), and it worked like a champ. I too used to use the jelly stuff, but mostly when I was stripping furniture. For models, I'll keep using the aerosol stuff.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ive found that even sittig the model in a bucket of thinners for a couple of days and giving it a scrub every now and then. It clears up well and will get into all the spots that are normally hard to get into

Id be wary of some strippers as they will remove the protective coating from the metal... I did it on a UT model the other day and now the metal is rough... like its rusting.

Im using the spray packs atm and its working well... just I gotta sit my cars on the lid of the rubbish bin. Got no space to do it
 

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You have to ve very careful with the stripper if it has a caustic content. Caustic soda is highly corrosive and eats up into the casting which is basically a aluminium zinc alloy. The rough pitting that has formed on ur UT model is similar to what happens if aluminum is kept for for than 30-45 mins in a 10% caustic soln bath.
 
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