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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've always heard that what's good always comes in pairs... so what if it's in threes? Well, what I now have on the table is nothing more than a trio of Italian ladies, namely 3 beautiful Lancia Aurelia B24S Spider Americas, reproduced by Bburago, respectively mine (metallic blue), my friend's Joel (light-blue) and my friend's Carlos (white). The miniature, by the brand's standards, isn't all bad but it's really a very simple model and I think the car itself deserves a bit better.

So, what I intend is to reproduce at least 2 original chassis as best as possible. Joel's will be approximated as closely as possible to reproduce chassis #B24S-1706:







The one from my friend Carlos will gain some new shoes (more on this later) and is intended to reproduce the specifications of chassis #B24-1034 (which is in fact a right-hand drive model but that is precisely what Carlos wants:











Finally, mine... is anyone's guess. I bought mine about 15 years ago and at the time I loved the metal-flake paintwork and the cream seats but the truth is that of the 240 Spider America, 181 B24S (with left-hand drive) were produced but of all the images I found, weather period or current ones, I have never seen any with a similar paintjob or color so I'm simply going to detail it as faithfully as possible without having a specific objective. More details:











So, this is the "to do" list for the 3 ladies:

- Paint the interior, upholstery and door panels in the correct colours;
- Paint steering wheel to simulate metallic arms and wooden handle;
- Paint the dashboard in body color, improve the dials, gauges and controls and add the dashboard trim in the color of the upholstery;
- Detail the engine (including ignition cables and distributor, fuel lines, detail air filters, carburetor, exhausts, dynamo, oil filter, etc.)
- Paint the interior of the bonnet, the trunk and wheel wella matte black;
- Change number plates according to each chassis;
- Detail fuel tank and fabricate the bottom (the mould is hollow where the tank sits);
- Paint the chassis in black, detail the transaxle and engine crankcase, add lines for the braking system, fuel, suspensions, etc;
- Paint exhaust pipes black and add metal tips (chassis #B24S-1706);
- Replace the original wheels with 3D-printed ones (chassis #B24-1034);
- Sand all tire treads for added realism;
- Include chrome frames on the tail lights;
- Add windshield wiper blades;
- Paint the chassi s#B24-1034 roof (if the paint I have at home is the right tone, otherwise it stays as it is);
- And everything else that comes up!!

This is the original state of the model:













All 3 ladies together:











Fully disassembled so all the parts get cleaned up and ready for the tedious job of eliminating mould lines:



More news to come!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A few updates. This is undoubtedly the most time consuming and boring phase of these projects: disassembling, cleaning and removing (at least the most of) the mould lines. Here it's all broken apart and with all the parts bagged so I don't loose track on anything LOL:























The 3D-printed wheels I mentioned before:



The tyres don't fit perfectly. I think I'll have to fill in the rims a little bit so they fit nicely:



The fuel tank (which resides behind the seats), on the model, was simply... bottomless. Therefore, I fabricated a bottom for each out of a 1:43 stand, glued them and painted the whole part matt black:




Sanded down the tyres' thread:



After soaking the parts in bleach to remove the chrome finish, the dashboard panels were sanded down in order to remove the mould mark that ran across the panel. I'm still going to at the small ash tray on the centre console:





On the engines there were huge gaps where the upper and lower halves met on the heads so I filled them in so it fits more tightly:



 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·


I took the opportunity and drilled the mould bits that simulate the spark plugs so I can afterwards insert the ignition cables:



On the exhaust lines I eliminated the fixation points (which in the model were fixated directly to the chassis...) so they are just bolted to the engine at the manifolds. On one of the models, metali exhaust tips will be added:







More news soon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Work has been advancing, slowly but surely. I've prepared the bodyshells in order to paint matt black the interior of the panels, but before that I had to correct some mould marks inside the trunk lids:



After some filler:







This is the part that annoys me the most: having to mask the whole exteriod face of the bodyshell. These are the mummies I ended up with:









Modificar mensagem


Some matt black paint later:











I masked the bodywork so that the boot rubber seals would be painted right away... but I will always have to give it some finishing touches:



I removed a series of "cylinders" moulded onto back side of the grilles... honestly, I don't know why they did it, it must have something to do with the moulding process. But presto, without these marks looks much better:





On the model's undercarriage, it was necessary to include the gearshift linkage tunnel to the transaxle, which I made from a cotton swab. I had to remove some of the mold to pass it thrrough but after everything is painted matte black it will soon look different:



 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A few more updates on this triple-header. All 3 had their undercarriages paited matt black and are ready to receive all pipes and cables necessary (brake and fuel lines, clutch and gearbox linkages, etc.):



At the rear transaxle I added the linkage housing that was missing on the original moulding and paited the assemblies accordingly:







Dry fited it all and it lookslike a different model already:



I painted black the horizontal slats on the white car like the original car so that only the vertical slats pop out. I think one can spot the difference when comparing side-by-side:







Here I deleted the fixation point of the air filter and intake plenum assembly. A bit of putty and it's good to go to the spray booth:





Here I deleted the centre hole on the wheel nuts. That'll give the wheels a generally better look



 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A few more bits and bobs... This time, the ladies went shoppping for jewelry!



For example, chrome trim around the aid intake:



New badge decals... unfortunately I got my measurements wronk and they came out to be like 1 or 1,5 mm too small... Also, will have to chrome respray the grille, this one is beyond salvation:



Chrome trim on top of the doors:



Chromed door sills:







Photoetched fuel cap locks:



Chrome taillight frames:




Two of the dashboards have already been resprayed, I managed to find some spray paint similar to each model's body colour except for the light blue. It's not easy but I have to find it!



Painted the steering wheel's rim to simulate wood, later I'll spray the spokes chrome for the correct look:



The exhaust pipes are painted black and added round metalic tips (for the light blue) just like the original car. The others retained the original "scallop" half-shells that were so common on the Aurelia Spider:





Airboxes are painted black (still have to chrome paint the air filters) and added printed plaques on the Weber carburettors:





I made some custom number plates for the light-blue (105930-FI) and white (ZA 328 AN) cars like the original ones, mine will retain the original plates since it doesn't really represent a particular car. Also, on the white car I had to change the placement of the front plate, since the original car had it placed above the bumper and not below:







The backs of the seats were opened so I used a bit of plasticard to cover them. I'll be priming them and afterwards paiting them accordingly (the light-blue car will be painted with Tamiya Desert Yellow and the white with matt red):

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Unfortunately I haven't been having much time to invest on this project but that doesn't mean it's come to a standstill. It's going forward, slowly but surely!

First of all, I just finished painting the seats for the white and light-blue cars (mine's seats will remain the original colour):







The fuel tank, sitting behind the seats, is already fitted with aluminum straps and has the fuel level probe inserted, so that no one runs out of fuel without unbeknownst:





On the body-coloured dashboards, I added the gauges, the choke knob, windshield wiper controls, indicator stack and the chrome trim around the steering column. Where the lid covering the opening where the owner could, if he wanted, mount a radio, the originals have a chrome effigy that I tried to replicate with aluminum tape:




In front of the firewall, the fuse box had its cover painted blue like the real car (I'm still going to add some colour to the electrical wires that go in and out of it) and it also added the chassis number plate:



Dry fitting the dashboard. The interior looks a bit better now, don't you think?



The light-blue's original paint was starting to show the decades it already had on its back and I thought, since overall it's still in good condition, it was best to polish it well before painting the dashboard and door trim:



The said trim painted with Tamiya's Desert Yellow:



After a tip I received from @P A D regarding a model shop in Spain (that is a true Alladin's cave for who likes to do this kind of work I) found a photoetched radiator grille made in the Czech Republic and a few euros, a few cuts and a coat of black paint later, the radiators gain a new look. Along with this one also got another one to make the gauge bezels that I will post very soon (hopefully):









Now it's time for the "real work": the engines. They already had the moulds corrected and painted aluminium, then painted the air filter box and the respective chrome grilles and started to add piping and ignition cables (which will only be inserted in the "rails" after the engine is in place; that's why the 3rd engine isn't on the photos, for it is mounted on one of the chassis to take measurements and test fit, etc):





Dry fitting the distributors, will be glued in place and the mounting points puttied after the cables are fitted correctly and the distributor caps are painted:



More news soon (and I hope it won't take that long)!
 

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Hi Joao,
I came late to the party, so just read this thread from the beginning. No wonder your projects take so long when you do three models at the same time. Now that would make me dizzy!

Again, you show fantastic attention to detail and the final models will be superb. Glad you found some useful goodies in the Alladin's cave that is Spot Model. Those PE parts really lift the appearance of the radiators. I think my bank account would be severely depleted if I spent any time walking around that shop. Looking forward to the next post.
Cheers from the sinking island,
Peter
 
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