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I simulated the rivets with which the rearview mirrors were attached to the bonnet on #0858. I will be buying some sticker chrome rivets for a better look:



I removed the rubber latches the model originally (and incorretly) had to close the front clamshell. Originally, the car uses flat head bolts to keep the clamshell in place. Therefore, I covered the holes with small pin heads that I think look OK. Also added the tyre callibration weights with a bit of aluminium tape:



On the reference photos i found of #0858 at the 1967 24h of Le Mans, I noticed the fixation of the plexiglass headlight covers was made with a kind of metal clamps bolted to the covers so I did those with a bit of aluminium tape and the smallest pin heads I could find (which aren't all that small). Maybe will be swapping them later:



I replaced the windshield wiper blades with ptohoetched ones that I got from Tremonia. Also painted chrome the base of the wiper stem on the #0856 as seen on the original car:



Removing the front clamshells one can see the revised radiator (I did the core with plastic mesh sprayed matt black but I just found a nice photoetched radiator-pattern mesh that I'll be replacing these with) and the cockpit ventilation and brake coling ducts:



#0856' sfront clamshell. I applied 3 layers of clear coat over the Ferrari badge so that it has a glossy finish and protrudes over the number decal:


The cockpit ventilation ducts (upper, thiner and smooth ones) were done of 4 mm electrical wire insulation tube with the core bored out so that the walls are thiner. The brake ducts were made of thin copper wire wrapped tightly around a thick tube and afer removing this, moulded into position and then painted with a thick layer of matt black Tamiya paint. For me this is the solution that I found to produce the best results on reproducing braided hose:





The finished engines:



#0856. The rear brake cooling ducts were made with the same technique I used for the front units. I also added the rear suspension trailing arms, the coil-over damper units, anti-roll bars and respective control arms. Only after the entire rear sub-frame and drivetrain are in place I connected the coils to their respective distributors:



#0858's engine. Same thing:



#0856's cockpit. I'm soon receiving a donour central rearview mirror but I can close the car since access is easy. I replaced the gearshift lever with a thinner one, made from a pin and the original knob:







#0858's cockpit. Pretty much the same work done in #0856 but since it's easier to access the cockpit before closing the car up, I attached the rearview mirror I had on this:





The finished undercarriage. It surelly won't look remotely as good as @P A D's but Still I think it looks way better than before. On this view one can see the coi-overs better an the added oil filter on the engine's right-hand side:



I will be making a complete photoshoot on these two real soon.

 

[P A D]

Hi Joao,
Wow, what a splendid piece of work! The attention to detail is outstanding and I'm glad you've finished first, as I can now copy a lot of what you've done to make mine better. Your work on the engines has raised the bar compared to my spyder and you've given me lots of ideas to help me with my berlinetta. I love all the little touches you've done to pick out the differences between the two cars, even down to adding the balancing weights to the rims.

Can you tell me what the switch is on top of the dashboard? I don't recall seeing that in any images, but you knowledge on cars is far greater than mine.

One comment re the air valves where you mention using 1mm wire. If you scale that up, they come out at 18mm. I measured a valve on my car and they are about 9mm, so 0.5mm wire would be better. I use 1:20 resin valves from Spot Model which are just about right. If you are considering changing the pins on the headlight covers, check out the Prime Miniatures website I gave you earlier. They do some very small brass rivets that might be suitable.

All in all an excellent job and if mine is as remotely as good, I will be pleased.

Cheers,
Peter

 

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Hi Peter!

Thank you for your words. I guess there's still some room for improvements but that's what modelling (or, in this case, more like a hybrid modelling-detailing) is all about: constantly improving. There are some things that I wish I got better (like the look on the seats or the intake trumpets) and probably some things I might redo in the future. For example, I've got an old 312 P from the old Shell Collezione (the shape of the mould is terrible but I'd have to sell a kidney or two to buy the magnificent GMP) that I decided to work on back in 2013. Detailed the engine, did my first reupholstering on the interior and I was pleased... but not for long. Since then I think I might've reopened the car at least 3 times do tweak this and that and I'm as pleased as I could be with it (mould shape incorrection not withstanding) but that doesn't mean I won't be opening it again!

Regarding the switch on the dashboard, indeed it's not presentt on pretty much none of the 330 P4's photos but I got this photo of 0858 on the 1967 24h of Le Mans where that switch is clearly present:

It's function? That's a very good question. It does have a function (cause in some photos of the 0856 I've found that toggle switch has a label, could be a secondary oil pump switch or something.

I know the scale on the air valves isn't accurate but I decied to use this for a number of reasons: first, cause it's a detail that adds a better look of detail but I was limited to what I had to work with; besides that, looking at the wheels, they don't seem to be all that off-scale so I'm happy with those. Also, 1 mm was the thinner drill bit I had so it fits snug in the rim. I saw those valves you said and I just might try ones of those some time on future projects. As for the rivets, I was going to get some from Spot Model but they were out of stock and the foresight for having them back in stock was like late december so I'll get them later on.

Don't be modest, your's won't be "remotely as good" it will be "much, much better" than any effort I could make. Looking forward to see the finished job!

 

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Here are the outside photos. Greetings from sunny southern Portugal! First, the factory 330 P4, chassis #0858 with which Ludovico Scarfiotti and Mike Parkes managed to take the absolutely gorgeous berlinetta to 2nd place at the 1967 24h of Le Mans, which was won by A.J. Foyt and Dan Gurney with the latest Ford GT40 Mk IV... 4 laps ahead!

 

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And here is chassis #0856 as it ran the 6h of Brands Hatch (which with Ludovico Scarfiotti and Peter Sutcliffe behind the wheel finished 5th) and nowadays is owned by Lawrence Stroll:

 

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[P A D]

Hi Joao,
Wow! So many additional details plus a few I've only just spotted, so I can incorporate them in my berlinetta. Excellent photos also , but then you don't have to put up with the sh1tty English weather we have here on the sinking island.

One thing you might consider though, is to try get the number decals below the doors to sit better over the rivets. I've not had to do any on the cars, but on locomotive tenders (which are often covered in rivets), I would apply decal soft then hot steam them from the kettle and then press down with a cloth soaked in boiling water and squeezed. You need some thick rubber gloves though.

Alternatively, on the Indycal Firestone decals for my P4 tyres, I used decal soft then hot air from the hair dryer. Or have you already lacquered them?

Cheers,
Peter

 

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Yeah, I've just bought some Micro Sol and will b trying that. I have never used this so I think I will tiral test it before in some other decals before probably destroying these I had custom made (and cost me more than I would've liked to pay for). I don't think I'm going to apply lacquer on them cause not only they will protrude ever further ftom the bodyshell as I've seen lacquer tends to become yelow-ish with time.

Nonetheless, thanks for the head's up!

 

[P A D]

Hi João,
If they are not lacquered then I think it will be OK. If it was mine I would brush on the neat Micro sol and let it soak for a some minutes, then apply heat with a hair dryer. Don't get too close in case the whole decal has loosened and you blow it off the model. That happened with one of the tyre decals on my P4. Luckily, I was able to retrieve it with a pair of tweezers and reapply with damaging it. Sometimes shit doesn't always happen!

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Cheers,
Peter