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If you are in the States, I use a spray-on stripper I get from Home Depot. Can't remember the name (got three cans of it at home, at work now), but it is in a tall can with orange trim. It will eat the paint off most die cast, including tampo's in no time, cleans up with water. Be very careful, when you are stripping, however, as this stuff turns plastic into unrecognizable goo. Make sure you have removed all the plastic parts from the primary die cast pieces. Plus, since it doesn't work on any plastic (other than to destroy it), you will probably need to lightly sand the decals/painted images off the larger plastic parts, and double primer them to get to a paintable surface.

Good luck with your customs!

:happy
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
:iagree

I use the same stuff, cannot think of the name of it. You can get it from the auto parts store.

I'll reiterate, keep it away from plastic :badidea
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
cool.. im in aus but i will look for that kind of spray -on type
thanks for the info and advices guys
cheers
 

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Got home, here's better description:

Klean Strip "Premium Stripper" Bar Code is 30192 07299, made by W.M. Barr & Co., Memphis, TN 38101-1879, Product Number ESR72

It's in an 18 oz. aerosol can.

I have a stainless steel sink in my kitchen, and coat the parts liberally with the spray. It will foam up, and then you can actually watch the solvents in the die cast paint begin to separate, and the paint will actually come off in sheets. One good spray usually does it, then I wash it off with as hot of water as I can, and just rinse the residue down into the disposal. Sometimes I have had to spray a car twice, when it had some stubborn areas. After the spray, I will take a wire brush to some little areas that did not come entirely clean.

What I do next is to put the car into my oven (after I have rinsed off all the residue from the paint stripper) for about 10-12 minutes, at about 225-250 degrees, to dry it (gets all the little crevases that you can't reach with a paper towel), and then let it air cool for about another 20-30 minutes. While it is still a little warm to the touch, I will shoot my first coat of primer, and pop the car back into the oven for the same cycle as drying. This process seems to set the primer a lot better than just letting it air dry.

When I go to paint, I will mask off the interior, and paint it the color I want, wait for the paint to air dry, and then pull the masking tape (need to decide whether you are going to do one or two coats, re-masking is a bitch), and bake again, same cycle.

Then I will let the model sit for at least a week, and then do what I am going to do to the exterior (masking off to avoid overspray on the interior paint), then repeat the baking process for the outside color as well.

The extra heat helps to even out any orange peel that you might get, and smooths out runs, etc.

Good Luck, and lets see some pictures of that custom paint job!

:cheers
 

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I use a spray on paint stripper by Selleys. It works great. But DO watch where you spray it!

Peter

PS Jim, what does your wife think of you "cooking" your models in the oven?
 

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Well, since she only knows how to use the Microwave, I'm pretty safe. :eek:ops

Boy, I hope she doesn't read that! :blastaway

I usually do it while she is studying in the other room, plus warn her in advance.

:happytwo
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
didnt know it was a very long process.
i think that oven idea its abit unsure hehe
did you use cooking oven? thought the smell of the paint really bad.
thanks for the tutoring dude
me still have to go down to hardware shop,
 

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So Jim, explain to me how you are only on your third wife.........? :giggle
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
me manage to get a can of this spray stripper.
turns out alright, cost me $8 buks
this the photo of my project :)

guess what colour that isss...??
 
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