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If anyone is looking at this image of the Mini Cooper rally, you can probably make out that the two parts of the rear seat are lying against the rear bulkhead.
Not only was this a very clever way of complying with the regulations of the time, in that all seats had to be in place to qualify as a production vehicle, but a way of allowing two spare wheels to be carried inside.
Very interesting info, thanks for sharing! Looking at the previous photo I couldn't see the spares, and I was wondering why the rear seat on a rally car.

In my mind and lack of knowledge about motor racing in general, I thought maybe the manufacturer (IXO?) was being cheap, so they used the interior of the road going Mini, thinking no one cares.

Also, nicely done seat belt mod, pretty neat!

I have a couple of the Tremonia seat belt kits waiting to be put to use, but I never get to it. I guess that's what they call "project fatigue": starting too many projects, losing focus, burning out and finishing none.
 

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I appreciate your comments.
If building seat belts using p/e hardware, prepare for some frustration.
And cussing, flying pieces and cuts to your fingers from the sharp feed tags.
It's also essential to have a magnifier to hand, although ideally it should be hands free and with lighting.
In spite of this, for me at least it's worth the hassle....
As for the model itself, I think it's the best effort in 1/18th scale I have seen.
So many manufacturers have made a mess of the shape, in a variety of scales.

 

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I bought a Norev 1/12th scale Mustang GT in metallic green hoping a decent covering of clear gloss would make it more 'Bullitt' accurate.
No such luck.
So I decided to take it apart to spray it with a decent colour match automotive aerosol .
'Take it apart' ended up being far more accurate than I thought!




Talk about 'cut and shut'..... 🤨
 

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I foolishly bought a Shelby Models '1966 Daytona winner', forgetting the shortcomings in the model.
I wanted an easy conversion to something representing a car with the snorkels in place, and minimum paint changes.
The second place finisher at the 1966 Spa 1000K was the perfect choice.
For me any significant subject from the glorious old Spa circuit is a preferred option.
Ford MKII nerds will spot the issues left in place on this model.....



 

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Very little in the way of external changes to this one.
Replaced the inaccurate exhaust system, with the type used on all DTM series Ford Sierras.
Used glass fibre type decal on the rear of the seat, and added proper type seat belts.
This is a very decent effort by IXO, allowing for the fact that the interior is the rally version, which is different.
They got the shape about spot on, even if the grills are solid plastic.
It will be fascinating to see how good Solido will get theirs.


 

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just finished this project yesterday. had been put on pause a lot of times because i didnt have the right tools & materials.
i think this kit i got here is a copy of the Hobby Design Aventador DMC kit, because there was some ugly mold lines and fitment issues to be fixed.
i got two more original Hobby Design kits that i have for some of my other Aventadors, and they seem like different but better quality.



 

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Repainted my Norev 1/12 'Bullitt' Mustang with a paint matched colour for Highland green.
Having the body shell in two pieces was a big help with painting, not least because of the weight!
I also lowered the front and rear ride height which I think is a little generous as supplied.
I originally considered the GTS version produced for ACME when it was announced.
Then I saw the expected prices.
Followed by images of the model.
Since I was able to get the Norev in a black Friday type sale - when it was already discounted sealed the deal.
See entry #1147 above showing the model in the original (odd) shade by Norev.



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