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That's part of my collection.

A corner unit with most of my remaining 1/18 scale Nascar models, along with some road racers (GMP, Greenlight and Welly racing Mustangs) as well as my Customer White collection, and some of my customs.

IMG_6479 by Jim Forte, on Flickr

IMG_6480 by Jim Forte, on Flickr
Wow. This is only part of your collection, right? What intrigues me is, with so many models, where do you store all the boxes? You must have a spare house somewhere. 😁 I've only got about 20 models and storing the boxes is a real PITA!
Cheers,
Peter
 

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Wow. This is only part of your collection, right? What intrigues me is, with so many models, where do you store all the boxes? You must have a spare house somewhere. 😁 I've only got about 20 models and storing the boxes is a real PITA!
Cheers,
Peter
I put flooring in the attic space above my garage.

These are older pictures, but give you an idea.

 

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This is more a tip for the modder and his workbench.
I have been experimenting with non acetone NPR to remove persistent decals on clear pieces.
So far applying with an earbud has removed the decal with no damage to the 'glass' if you follow the same procedure as on the bodywork.
Tested on some Solido and SunStar components with no obvious clouding, just don't allow it time to soak.
Obviously each brand of car brand model and NPR itself should be tested on a part of the glass that will not be seen after reassembly.
You try this at your own risk, no responsibility for damage can be accepted by those involved on the forum! :LOL:
 

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I’m working on a custom Classic Carlectables Lola T332, and messed up the injection scoop on the rear bodywork.

So I had a buddy of mine resin-cast a replacement.

He did a few extras.

https://flic.kr/p/2nwLT9B
Wondered what it might look like on a T70 Spyder.

https://flic.kr/p/2nwPmrf
Had some Sunoco Blue paint left over from my custom box truck and trailer, and an old decal sheet.

https://flic.kr/p/2nEAuaK
 

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Introductory remark: I hate doing paint jobs!
I tried several times and it was always a pain:
  • I don't have a paint booth or a room where I can paint.
  • Have to do it outside in my garden (needs warm weather and no wind).
  • Have no paint brush equipment either - need to rely on rattle cans.
  • It always stinks like hell.
  • Never been 100% satisfied with the result of my few attempts so far.

Having said that I recently gave it another try with the engine hood of a Minichamps 300 SL.
Won the model cheap in almost mint condition but discovered a paint issue on the hood.
Tried to polish the issue away then slightly sanded it. Unfortunately the clear coat was thinner than I expected - so the hood was ruined. :(

Did some research and found that the correct MB colour is called "MB Sliver 180".
I know what you think: A perfect colour match can only achieved if you paint all parts in one go.
But the hood was ruined anyway and I had time during a holiday at home. So I decided to give a try...

After sanding the hood completely down and I needed to attempts with automotive rattle cans.
But at the end I was surprisingly satified how it worked out (primer, 2 layers base coat and 2 layers clear coat):
Fluid Cosmetics Liquid Rectangle Material property

After drying I put the hood back into the model and you can already guess what comes next:
Automotive parking light Hood Automotive lighting Grille Car

Still satisfied with the painting result itself but this little project ended as a complete failure becasue of the colour mismatch.

All in all nothing worth sharing here but I thought when I post it people will have at least something to laugh at... :ROFLMAO:

BTW: Did I mention that I HATE doing paint jobs?
 

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Still satisfied with the painting result itself but this little project ended as a complete failure because of the colour mismatch.

Don't write off your efforts with the paint job yet.
Use a plastic pot cleaner to rub down the clear coat until it's slightly rough and dull.
You should be able to put another layer of the correct paint shade with little difficulty.
Most large car accessory stores will have 'touch up' spray cans in a variety of colours.
Bring the model with you, and ask to bring the can you have selected into the light for comparison.
This relies on the lid being 100% accurate - not always the case.
I usually use a matt black coat as a base for silver metallics.
 

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@cwbs, @slartibartfast229, @StratosWRC:
Many thanks friends for your kind and encouraging words!

It was a good exercise for me and I am glad that finally I managed to get this hood painted with a decent result.
So I can live with the fact that this project failed at the end.

Nevertheless I have to realize that painting models is not my cup of tea.
And even if I felt tempted to go on with this project:
Summer is definitely over now and my next chance for doing a paint job in my garden wolud be in about 9 months time... ;)
 

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Nevertheless I have to realize that painting models is not my cup of tea.
And even if I felt tempted to go on with this project:
Summer is definitely over now and my next chance for doing a paint job in my garden would be in about 9 months time... ;)


Before I cleared some space in an outside shed for painting, I used to use a large, sturdy cardboard box outdoors to spray into.
Now I have two clocks that I rescued from a broken wall display, one reads the temperature and one reads the humidity.
Humidity should be less than 40%, temperature between than 15C - 25C.
I don't think there's anyone on here who paints who didn't have to go through a (sometimes painful) learning process.....:unsure:
 

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Put me in the category of painting outside on my driveway.

Several years ago I bought a collapsible paint booth with fan and filters, and a toaster oven for curing.

I used the paint booth on two models and the cleanup wasn’t worth it.

And the toaster oven is still in the original box, never unpacked.

Still got about another month of 90 degree (F) days here, and the wind usually lays down here in the Fall.

Unfortunately I looked at my inventory of projects and none of them are ready for paint.
 

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Put me in the category of painting outside on my driveway.

Several years ago I bought a collapsible paint booth with fan and filters, and a toaster oven for curing.

I used the paint booth on two models and the cleanup wasn’t worth it.

And the toaster oven is still in the original box, never unpacked.

Still got about another month of 90 degree (F) days here, and the wind usually lays down here in the Fall.

Unfortunately I looked at my inventory of projects and none of them are ready for paint.
I would advise against trying to speed up paint drying/curing using any kind of oven or similar.
This is particularly the case with automotive spray paints or Tamiya stuff.
Even if the paint looks decent when its touch dry, when it dries to be fully cured it often leads to cracks appearing later on.
I made the mistake of leaving freshly painted bodies in very warm sunshine, with disastrous results.
Now any painting is after the heat of the afternoon, and always in the shade.
BTW - a cardboard box is disposable when it gets worn out...
 

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Painted white first around a week ago, then over two days (on and off!) I carefully masked for the red.
It can be seen that it wasn't entirely without issues, because in all my years I have never managed to avoid some degree of paint creep.
Conditions were sunny but not too warm (17C), humidity around 30%.
Peeled off the masking after being left to dry for 3 hours in the shade, then left overnight before taking this photo.
The white has no clear coat, the red does (Tamiya TS13).

Automotive tire Car Toy Bumper Motor vehicle
 
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