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WARNING: LARGE IMAGES (~650-950KB)

A decent model for $15, and after awhile, I even got used to the blue & white interior. But, like many MM Zonda buyers I'm sure, I felt more could be done. So started the mods. 1st, some disassembly and preliminary color testing. I mixed my own color, but later found Testors has a very close color, called Leather of all things. Black plastic thing in the middle pic is the luggage bin. Last pic are the toggle switches for the dash, made by Dremeling some paperclips. All of them are about 2-3 times too large for scale.
 

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Alcantara-like leather (from local hobby shop) for the dash, seat inserts, and rear bulkhead. Smooth leather for the shifter tunnel and door panels. Added a strap & buckle for the glovebox. The model already had the carbon fiber pattern, but applied a layer of clear gloss. For other parts of the car, I used Scale Motorsport 1/20th CF, but unfortunately found out after applying to the instrument cluster that it's pewter, not black. Oh well.
 

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Interior coming together. Drilled some holes into the pedals with an x-acto. Added window toggle switches too.


Made some minor mods to the engine compartment. CF for the inside of the hatch. Painted the wing support struts silver/chrome. Added a red oil dipstick. Gloss-coated the luggage bins. Painted the rear subframe flat black, and applied CF over some of it. With more time, or with my next Zonda, I'd cut out more of the subframe so it more closely resembles the real one, which is mostly chromoly tubing. I'd also put leather straps on those luggage bins. Maybe fab some exhaust headers and do some wiring.
 

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After about 3 weeks, working on and off, everything goes together. Exterior mods are few: CF for the rear light panels and near the undertray, silver wheels on one side, anthracite on the other, front turn signals changed from white to dark silver, painted-on leather for the hatch "straps", B-pillar painted black. Used some plastic to make spacers for a drop to the front suspension, but really it should be lowered even more.
 

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FANTASTIC! Really one of the nicest mods I've ever seen. Very professional and tasteful. If only MM or someone else made the Zonda this well!
 
G

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Outstanding work!! :nicejob :nicejob :nicejob

I don't think anyone brand can replicate the interior as well as you did. That is the interior of a proper Zonda and man did you nail it!!!

:cheers
 

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Awesome work Guibo! :nicejob :nicejob :nicejob
I wish I would had your guidence what I was working on mine! Might have to go back to the work bench with mine! :help
 

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Now that's nice! The interior mod is just stunning! Great job! :cheers
The rest of the car looks great too, but one question: why did you paint the rims on one side anthracite and on the other side silver? :confused
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the comments, everyone. Yes, I do wish someone like Kyosho/AutoArt would get the license for this car. It deserves no less. I'd even seriously consider one with CMC quality and price, if only it were available.

acisne:
All I can say is: PATIENCE. Do a little at a time. Beyond that, let your imagination guide you. I know Zonda's are largely built to order with customizable interior combos so the color choices are pretty much infinite.
If I do another one, I'm seriously going to consider a roadster version as you've done. Maybe a Zonda F Roadster, in dark silver with a red interior...

BVR:
Aside from the stock wheels looking too small, I really hated the chrome look. So I tried the anthracite, which looked OK. Figured since you can't really see both sides at once without a mirror, it'd be good to have a different "set" of wheels on one car. Think I first saw that on an Enzo at SEMA.
 

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:nicejob ....with your interior and Acisne's roadster body....that could make a cool car!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks guys!

Eric:
It's all spray. I used Testors Anthracite Gray Metallic. Probably would've been best to brush on a layer, into the corners. If you look closely, you'll see the paint seems to want to "seep away" from the corners.
For silver, I used a can of plasti-kote engine enamel (in "Aluminum") which I happen to have lying around. This was after experimenting with Testors Chrome and Silver Metallic, with less than ideal results. Chrome was too thick, Silver Metallic looked too white/gray. I'll bet just plain Testors Silver would do a fine job. Or better yet, one of their metallizer buffing sprays. Next time...
 

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I finally clicked this link and must agree with the crowd!
That is by far the best leather interior I've seen and you should be happy with that car. I normally don't like the leather mods as I think they look clumpy and unrealistic, but yours don't! I think you nailed this technique for sure!

AWESOME!
 
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Very nice!!! :nicejob

Can you please post a picture of the spray and materials used for this project?

You just raised the value of this $15 model temendously.
 

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Thanks, Thorst and DiecastX.

These are the materials I used:

1) Bare Metal chrome foil tape; generally used for chroming parts & trim, but I used it in place of masking tape, to make the templates for the seat and door inserts
2) Tandy Leather Factory Velvet Suede Trim (in taupe); comes as a 3 3/8" x 9 1/4" sheet, like this: http://www.tandyleather.com/images/4036-03-L.JPG
I used the very thinnest type available. So thin, there were almost holes in some parts. Used for dash & seat inserts
3) Some kind of tan polyester I picked up from a local fabric store; used for carpeting; some fabrics will "pull apart" at the edges once you cut them; look around for the kind that doesn't, unless you glue the edges
4) Smooth vinyl, used for door inserts; that white backing is cotton, and must be cut away to "thin" it out for better a tighter fit across the pieces.
5) Scale Motorsport 1/20th Carbon Fiber decal sheet (about 5" x 8 1/2" sheet), in Pewter color; I'd recommend getting 2 sheets, preferrably in Black, if you want to do both seatbacks (I just painted mine gloss black) and the luggage bins
(all paints are Testors unless otherwise noted)
6) Flat Black enamel spray; for rear subframe
7) Gloss Lacquer; for luggage bins
8) Chrome; for gauge cluster, "posts" of the rear tail lights
9) Anthracite Grey Metallic; for wheels
10) Plasti-kote engine enamel, in Aluminum; for wheels
11) Flat Black; used to touch up the rear subframe & to mix with browns for 2-tone steering wheel
12) Gloss Black; for touching up dashboard underspray, and seatbacks; B-pillar
13) Gloss Red; for dipstick handle
14) Clear Top Coat; for interior "carbon fiber" and CF decals on underside of engine catch
15) Chrome Trim; for toggle switches, seat belts, rear wing supports
16) Flat Brown
17) Flat Burnt Sienna; mixed with brown for leather look
18) Solvaset; for CF decals
19) Royal Taklon #10 wide brush; for applying clear top coat
20) Robert Simmons T85 #2 round medium brush
21) Floquil Golden Fox 25/0 fine brush; for toggle and steering colum stalk switches
22) Super glue gel
23) Tamiya 6mm masking tape
24) blank CD; for lowering spacers, should use 2 per side up front; if you guys wanna lower yours, you don't have to remove completely the underside of the car; just the 4 screws at the front subframe cover
25) tweezers
26) very small, fine scissors to remove cotton backing from the vinyl
27) #11 X-acto blades
28) low-solvent carnauba wax; used on the entire car outside of the car after polishing, and in the interior for CF/clear-coated parts; also used on the underside of the engine hatch and on top of the luggage bins: this Motor Max model might suck in the details, but the tolerances back there are very close; adding the CF decals + 2 layers of top coat + 1 layer of gloss coat on the luggage bins had these two parts sticking together; the wax keeps them from sticking.

Not shown, but I'd recommend:
Orange paint, for the seat belt receptacles. Testors Red + Yellow = something closer to brown. Get the real thing while you're at the hobby store.
Medium to small paperclips, for the toggle switches.
Large paper clip, for the dipstick tube.
Very fine needle-nose pliars, to hold these bits while you're Dremel'ing.
You know those spare "trees" you get left over from a 1/24th scale plastic model kit? That's what I used for the canopy beams. Dremel/sand them down to half-thickness (like a half-dome), then bend and cut to fit.
 
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