Kinda of, depends how much has leaked on. You would need a car wax. If the area is kinda tricky to get to use cotton swabs soaked in a wax and use some toothpick as well to try and "scratch" the glue off. It will take some time but should work if it's not too much glue. I managed to get superglue off this way mutliple times

 

We'd need to see pics. It's pretty unlikely though... although having said that I've got it off of windows before & made them nice & clear afterwards.

 

I've used the car wax method myself... it can be done if the glue spot isn't too large.

 

Here are the two areas that have superglue. I had to use flash (otherwise the superglue wouldn't even be visible in the photos), so it actually doesn't look quite this bad in real life.

And yes, I need to get some display cases/cabinets to keep the dust out! But I'm super cheap and haven't bought any yet.

 

This can be 100% removed without any paint damage. Car wax + cotton swabs along with some toothpicks to scrape the glue off

It will take some time and rubbing tho, just keep doing it until it's gone

 

Try to rub it down with compound. Tamiya Compound works fine for me. But be careful not to rub too hard at edges.

 

What about acetone?

Better known as nail polish remover

 

Acetone does nothing. I had to do this last week on my CSL

 

I tried nail polish remover on the gloss paint but it didn't work, however i was able to remove super glue from my iphone screen with the nail polish remover.

 

These are the reasons i flat out refuse to use SG on any of my models now. Cant remember who mentioned it, But I now use this.

 

I bought some of that when I saw it recommended on here, it's great! I've used it a few times now & haven't had any problems at all. I even re-stuck a window on a pesky OttO model

 

You guys get all the fun stuff!!!

All we get is the testors glue.....which is as close to superglue as it gets. Even tamiya is hard to find at stores these days.....

 

you can order it on eBay.

 

I also use contacta clear takes longer to dry or garden but it's very good stuff...

Glad my tip is helping others too

Craig, im glad you got the Otto window fixed too, there a pain when there wonky

 

Just picked one up on Ebay myself. Thanks for the tip guys.

 

Thank you everyone for all the advice! I will see what I can do.

 

How did you get on ? Have you tried it yet ?

 

I haven't gotten around to doing it haha. Been pretty busy.

 

I just posted a topic with a similar issue.

Anybody know if the car wax method will work with my glue blob issue on my new 1/12 Kyosho Laferrari?

Here is a pic.

 

You can try to pick it off, by hand. But you'd probably need a blunt screw driver to 'chip away' at it (you would have to be super careful) To be honest though, I'd try to return it. It should not be like that.

 

It won't work on that carbon fiber decal..the wax would remove the decal long before the glue... but maybe you can just cover that spot with a new decal?

 

I thought of trying that but where would I get an exact matching carbon fibre decal.

 

I kinda have the same problem as written above. I bought a Huracan from MR on a site, it was a bargain.
But when it arrived, my side windows were open...
I glued it but you can see some marks on the paint. The second window was much better, because I had a little experience with the first one.

What is the best solution to remove this?

If you click on the photo you can see it at top of the window.

 

You need some masking tape to protect the window, and then rub away with an old cotton T shirt and some car wax, the more aggressive the better. It will remove it, but try not to press too hard on the edge as it will remove the paint there first!

Using superglue was a very bad move for this repair. You needed Microscale Kristal Klear and hold it down overnight with some Tamiya masking tape.
Lucky this is the only damage because if any of the superglue got on the clear parts it's game over!

Nice model BTW

 

Thanks for your help! I knew when I started that it was not a good idea. I had informed by some local shops, but they couldn't help me. Probably because I haven't bought the model there.
Which car wax do you prefer?

 

Something thick like Autoglym Super Resin Wax should do the trick.

 

Thanks Guiddy, I'll try this when I have some time and let you know!

 

I really, really wish I'd known about this years ago. It really does work, on both diecast and resin, not on plastic though

As far as what wax to use, just get whatever is cheapest. I used a $7 Meguiar's and some dried out Armor All cleaning wipes.